bigburly912
Flashlight Enthusiast
The 250 clicks isn't a problem as long as it isn't wonky like my last one and forgets everything I teach it. I only run primaries in 2xaa lights so I won't have a problem there. I don't trust 2x14500
My first encounter with a Novatac Spa Defense 120T
- Thread starter jon_slider
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
Hondo
Flashlight Enthusiast
2x14500, meaning 3.7 volt Lithium rechargeable cells, WILL kill it.
But, I've never lost the programming feature after the 250 clicks on any of my Classics. I think jon had the problem sorted on your last one with the bad signal spring. I actually picked up a few spares of those from Unique Titanium while they still have them. Along with a Ti bezel and spare tail cap for my "Legacy" HCRI clicky. Now I can give it a deluxe "makeover" if it gets dinged up!
Just a caution from painful repeated past experience: We refer to alkaline primaries as "alkaleaks" for a reason. They can blow their guts and become permanently lodged in a battery tube in a very short period of time. And it does not need to be old, or well used cells to do it. I've seen them blown in the package at the store. And the brand does not matter. Duracell, Energizer, Rayovac, and off brands, all seem to do it with the same regularity in my experience. Eneloops rule, as they don't go dead in storage, and never leak. And they can be topped up any time. The Energizer primary lithium are simply awesome, especially in hot or cold climate conditions. Just a little pricey if you use the light a lot.
But, I've never lost the programming feature after the 250 clicks on any of my Classics. I think jon had the problem sorted on your last one with the bad signal spring. I actually picked up a few spares of those from Unique Titanium while they still have them. Along with a Ti bezel and spare tail cap for my "Legacy" HCRI clicky. Now I can give it a deluxe "makeover" if it gets dinged up!
Just a caution from painful repeated past experience: We refer to alkaline primaries as "alkaleaks" for a reason. They can blow their guts and become permanently lodged in a battery tube in a very short period of time. And it does not need to be old, or well used cells to do it. I've seen them blown in the package at the store. And the brand does not matter. Duracell, Energizer, Rayovac, and off brands, all seem to do it with the same regularity in my experience. Eneloops rule, as they don't go dead in storage, and never leak. And they can be topped up any time. The Energizer primary lithium are simply awesome, especially in hot or cold climate conditions. Just a little pricey if you use the light a lot.
jon_slider
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2015
- Messages
- 5,159
Update on the Black 120T I got from Bigburly912
it has landed in Germany in the hands of the new owner after getting a makeover by CRX that includes
triple Nichia, h17fx driver, 18350 compatible (signal spring eliminated and eSwitch eliminated), mechanical switch, titanium bezel, various glowy bits...
the light in the middle
on the left in the 3 light group above is a SPA that got a Nichia and 18350 signal bar, w titanium bezel
On right in the 3 light group above is a Maratac CR123, converted to tail clicky, triple nichia, added pocket clip
all the work of CRX (he is a CPF member) a Master Craftsman that builds everything by hand with files, and does not own a lathe..
it has landed in Germany in the hands of the new owner after getting a makeover by CRX that includes
triple Nichia, h17fx driver, 18350 compatible (signal spring eliminated and eSwitch eliminated), mechanical switch, titanium bezel, various glowy bits...
the light in the middle
on the left in the 3 light group above is a SPA that got a Nichia and 18350 signal bar, w titanium bezel
On right in the 3 light group above is a Maratac CR123, converted to tail clicky, triple nichia, added pocket clip
all the work of CRX (he is a CPF member) a Master Craftsman that builds everything by hand with files, and does not own a lathe..
Last edited:
kz1000s1
Enlightened
The easiest way I found to do the 250 clicks is to hold the light horizontally with both hands and press the switch against the flat side of a table. It's much easier than using your thumb. I have 3 SPL-120s I got on eBay for $15 each. One I put in a 219c 4000k, second is getting an XPL HI 4000k, third is the one with the best tint that's staying original. They say spa defense made in the USA on the tail cap. They were hard to take apart because the had lots of red loctite on all the threads. One had a regular Novatac heat sink with a small hole for a bare emitter and the other had about a 15mm wide hole using a board.
jon_slider
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2015
- Messages
- 5,159
Congrats on your lights and mods, feel free to post pics.
Glad you found a way to do the 250 click that works for your raised buttons. My approach, which also works with flush buttons, is to stand the light on a table while pressing the button.. Both my Spa and my Storm have 4500k N219b, my favorite High CRI LED.
Left to right, Pewter Spa with Black bezel, Gold Storm, HDS Rotary Cool White
I also like the stock LED beam, except the Low CRI, and Low Lumens. My Spa now makes overt 250 lumens, the storm only 110. In stock form, Novatac high modes vary a lot, I recently bought one that only made 70 lumens.
Besides the flicker on Low mode, my Spa also flickers at 3.6v and the Storm at 3.8v. I consider those to be undocumented Low Battery warnings, iow, a feature, not a bug... LOL
Other differences is that my Spa has a black bezel (and no locktite), the other Novas Ive had with aluminum bezels the color of the light, were locktited, like yours. There are at least 3 generations of SPA, each with different knurling. They all have the USA marked tailcap, though I have my doubts about where the bodies were made.
The cool thing about Novas is they have the HDS Clicky UI, which is very entertaining, plus the nice programming feature, once unlocked.
Merry Holidays
Glad you found a way to do the 250 click that works for your raised buttons. My approach, which also works with flush buttons, is to stand the light on a table while pressing the button.. Both my Spa and my Storm have 4500k N219b, my favorite High CRI LED.
Left to right, Pewter Spa with Black bezel, Gold Storm, HDS Rotary Cool White
I also like the stock LED beam, except the Low CRI, and Low Lumens. My Spa now makes overt 250 lumens, the storm only 110. In stock form, Novatac high modes vary a lot, I recently bought one that only made 70 lumens.
Besides the flicker on Low mode, my Spa also flickers at 3.6v and the Storm at 3.8v. I consider those to be undocumented Low Battery warnings, iow, a feature, not a bug... LOL
Other differences is that my Spa has a black bezel (and no locktite), the other Novas Ive had with aluminum bezels the color of the light, were locktited, like yours. There are at least 3 generations of SPA, each with different knurling. They all have the USA marked tailcap, though I have my doubts about where the bodies were made.
The cool thing about Novas is they have the HDS Clicky UI, which is very entertaining, plus the nice programming feature, once unlocked.
Merry Holidays
Last edited:
jon_slider
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2015
- Messages
- 5,159
Accuracy update
It has come to my attention that some people think the Spa Defense SPL-120 is a programmable light, without the 250 click unlock. In my experience Spa lights are Locked from factory and Require the 250 click intervention to enable programmability.
I added the T to the title of this thread where I wrote Spa Defense 120T. There is actually no T and no P designation on Spa lights, they actually just say SPL-120. I put the T there because the light is set up similar to the Novatac 120T, which is also factory locked.
fwiw
The 250 click unlock of a SPA, or 120T, is a one time event, as long as the light is not Factory Reset.
That is different than the dreaded 250 click required for the B42 and B60 models, for every single programming change.
here is one place where the belief may have started, that Spa lights arrive in Programmable mode, equivalent to a 120P.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?186387-SPA-Defense-SPL-120-(Novatac)
but note that is only true for the light in the first post (and its one distinguishing trait is that it had a flush button).. after that... Spa were Locked, and came with raised buttons.
ime the Spa lights arrive in a Locked mode, equivalent to the 120T.
despite the fact that the back of the box says "can be programmed"
that is not accurate in my experience
All the SPA I have handled, have been factory locked, and required the 250 click unlock.
It has come to my attention that some people think the Spa Defense SPL-120 is a programmable light, without the 250 click unlock. In my experience Spa lights are Locked from factory and Require the 250 click intervention to enable programmability.
I added the T to the title of this thread where I wrote Spa Defense 120T. There is actually no T and no P designation on Spa lights, they actually just say SPL-120. I put the T there because the light is set up similar to the Novatac 120T, which is also factory locked.
fwiw
The 250 click unlock of a SPA, or 120T, is a one time event, as long as the light is not Factory Reset.
That is different than the dreaded 250 click required for the B42 and B60 models, for every single programming change.
here is one place where the belief may have started, that Spa lights arrive in Programmable mode, equivalent to a 120P.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?186387-SPA-Defense-SPL-120-(Novatac)
but note that is only true for the light in the first post (and its one distinguishing trait is that it had a flush button).. after that... Spa were Locked, and came with raised buttons.
ime the Spa lights arrive in a Locked mode, equivalent to the 120T.
despite the fact that the back of the box says "can be programmed"
that is not accurate in my experience
All the SPA I have handled, have been factory locked, and required the 250 click unlock.
