Oink
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2008
- Messages
- 45
Thanks... love de-crippling stuff like this, no love for manufacturers that go the extra distance to dump down their products...
NovaTac EDC T and E Models CRACKED! Back Door/Easter egg found!
- Thread starter LLCoolBeans
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
SaturnNyne
Enlightened
Wow, I can't believe it. After all this time and so many wondering if there's a way, it finally turns out that the backdoor for these is the same one we already knew about. Thanks for figuring this out, Cool Beans. This is a cool achievement, even if it does seem like we should have gotten it long ago.
Actually, the method of accessing the menu is indeed exactly the same in that in both cases you simply access the menu in the normal way but use 250 clicks instead of 10 or 3. The difference is in the way the different versions work, not in the method.
streetmaster
Enlightened
I was able to crack my 120E successfully. I also was able to restore it back to 120E with a factory reset. Then I cracked it again. So the crack is definitely reversible.
The easiest way I found to perform the 250 clicks is to put the light bezel down on the desk, hold the light steady with one hand, and do the clicking with the middle finger of the other hand. I didn't have to count clicks. It takes roughly 50 to 70 seconds to get to the 250 clicks, depending on how fast you're doing it. The light will start flashing when you get to the 250. Then do the "press" and your in the options menu.
After playing with my programmable 120E and getting it programmed the way I want, :thumbsup: I now see why so many people bought the 120P. Very nice.
I especially like the fact that it has memory now.
The easiest way I found to perform the 250 clicks is to put the light bezel down on the desk, hold the light steady with one hand, and do the clicking with the middle finger of the other hand. I didn't have to count clicks. It takes roughly 50 to 70 seconds to get to the 250 clicks, depending on how fast you're doing it. The light will start flashing when you get to the 250. Then do the "press" and your in the options menu.
After playing with my programmable 120E and getting it programmed the way I want, :thumbsup: I now see why so many people bought the 120P. Very nice.
I especially like the fact that it has memory now.
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Imworking
Newly Enlightened
Awesome news. Hey streetmaster, you'll never guess which RPM Bezel I ordered?
streetmaster
Enlightened
lol, it's a beauty ain't it? :naughty:
LLCoolBeans
Flashlight Enthusiast
Ok, I just did a factory reset, and returned to T defaults.
Entered the menu and enabled option 9.
Option 4 was enabled by default. So, I don't know how my option 4 got set to disabled last time.
Entered the menu and enabled option 9.
Option 4 was enabled by default. So, I don't know how my option 4 got set to disabled last time.
matrixshaman
Flashlight Enthusiast
Now that it can be reliably reset to the default light can anyone verify whether the programming currently known lowers the highest level to 85 Lumens instead of 120? This may be a small enough difference to require a light meter to be sure. For most purposes I'd give up the extra lumens to have all the 'P' functions in this light if I had to. But of course it will be nice to see full power if we can.
Very nice job LL Cool, I shall begin to transform my 120E at once.
streetmaster
Enlightened
I'm pretty sure I would notice the difference betweem 85 and 120 lumens. I have not lost any brightness.
The more I look at it, the less I trust my eyes. Dammit, how can I find out for sure??
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HitecDrftr
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2008
- Messages
- 155
Hey, you can get an extra 8.25% off using the code "catax" on their site. (As of right now, 11/18/08)
So, it breaks down like this
Novatac EDC 120E = $89.95
UPS Ground $10.61 (to PA)
Tax $0.00
Apply code "catax" -$7.43
Total Shipped $93.14
Hitec
streetmaster
Enlightened
When I bought mine there was a 10% off code(can't remember) and I ended up paying $80.96 plus shipping.
matrixshaman
Flashlight Enthusiast
For the newer people here you might want to check the Jeers section before buying from Botach. They have quite a history. I won't get into it here so as to stay on topic but since some people here are obviously looking to get a deal on a Novatac to reprogram you might look elsewhere. Check the 'Good deals' section on CPF Marketplace and you'll find some better alternatives.
As far as not needing a light meter to tell the difference between 85 and 120 Lumens I would say that most people would need it. First you have your memory of an exact brightness to deal with. Then you have some simple physics and a general rule I think most have found to hold true here that it takes a doubling of output lumens to be very noticeable difference. I recently got a light that reads over 4000 Lux on a light meter I have. I thought when I first got it that it was less bright than another light. I then checked the other light on the meter and found it was just barely 2000 Lux. Even trying one and then the other a few seconds later it was hard to tell a difference in brightness until they were side by side at the same time. So while I'd like to believe there is no difference I'd like to see the actual measurements. If no one can do this in the next couple days I should be able to do so as I'll probably have a 120T in hand in the next day or two and I'll verify this on my light meter. Either way I'm thrilled to have the option of reprogramming much thanks to LLCoolBeans!
As far as not needing a light meter to tell the difference between 85 and 120 Lumens I would say that most people would need it. First you have your memory of an exact brightness to deal with. Then you have some simple physics and a general rule I think most have found to hold true here that it takes a doubling of output lumens to be very noticeable difference. I recently got a light that reads over 4000 Lux on a light meter I have. I thought when I first got it that it was less bright than another light. I then checked the other light on the meter and found it was just barely 2000 Lux. Even trying one and then the other a few seconds later it was hard to tell a difference in brightness until they were side by side at the same time. So while I'd like to believe there is no difference I'd like to see the actual measurements. If no one can do this in the next couple days I should be able to do so as I'll probably have a 120T in hand in the next day or two and I'll verify this on my light meter. Either way I'm thrilled to have the option of reprogramming much thanks to LLCoolBeans!
streetmaster
Enlightened
If you or someone could check with a light meter, I would really appreciate it. The more I look at it on high, the more I'm doubting my ability to tell the difference. But I'm gonna stick with my first impression that it's still 120lm on high. I hope I'm right.
streetmaster
Enlightened
Thanks! The 85 has 21 and the 120 has 22. I'll see if I can count them.
Edit: I'm pretty sure there's still 22 levels.
Edit: I'm pretty sure there's still 22 levels.
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1dash1
Enlightened
If you don't have access to a lightmeter, the next best thing is a side-by-side comparison with a known source with a similar beam pattern and brightness. Use whatever you have in your inventory that's 100+ lumens. (Personally, I'd use an EX10 GD+ on max.)
cslinger
Enlightened
Definitely works on the 120T and the 85T.
I have switched both of mine over to program mode. I basically got rid of the strobe on the high mode and kept level 21/22 for both primary and high modes so I can use the lights as tactical momentary lights or be on a low mode and hold to move back to high mode instead of defaulting to strobe mode.
Wicked cool find. Thanks as defaulting the strobe was one of my very minor complaints about this light.
As was said above easiest way to do this is to turn the light on. Place it bezel down on a table. Once you have the light on and bezel down use your index finger or palm of your hand to start clicking. You DO NOT have to count 250 exact clicks. Once you reach the 250 or whatever point is necessary the light will start to flash (do this is a darker room and pay attention to the light escaping from the bezel) Once the light starts to flash click one more time and hold. This puts you into program mode.
So basically in order to set up an 85T or 120T to be a programmable tactical light, removing the strobe as I have done follow the steps below.
1-Turn light on to primary setting using a single click
2-Place light (powered on primary setting) bezel down on a hard flat surface (table)
3-Using your palm or finger begin clicking the light (250 times) Must be done reasonably quickly but not onerously so
4-Continue clicking until you see the light begin to blink at this point continue to click one more time and HOLD the last click. NOTE THIS IS NOT A STOP CLICKING THING IT MUST BE A SMOOTH TRANSITION JUST DO ONE MORE CLICK AND HOLD BASICALLY 251 AND HOLD.
5-Light will begin to flash indicating it is in the program menu
6-Click through the menu settings until you get to number 9 (9 clicks)
7-Once on menu setting 9 (dim to bright indicates this) click and hold to turn this setting on. Hold the click for 2ish seconds until the light turns off.
8-Light will now act as a normal 85P or 120P model.
9-Turn the light back on and do the click clickhold to latch the light into the highest mode or strobe for the T models
10-While light is on / strobing click click clickhold (Continue to hold) to begin the various light level ramp up routine. Light will strobe, flash etc. and then go into a serious of incremental ramp up changes of successively brighter light.
11-Once it has reached the level you wish, with the highest level being indicated by two flashes simply release the button you have been holding.
12-Turn off light
13-When light comes back on the high mode that used to be strobe will now be set to whatever you set it to, in my case another highest level setting that allows me to use momentary high in a tactical manner or do the click and hold from other lower settings to give me maximum light as well.
Hope this helps those trying to do this. I am going to change the battery in my 120T to double check that it holds the P mode settings.
The 120P/85P manual found below will work as it states once you have finished steps 1-8.
http://www.novatac.com/downloads/Novatac-EDC-P-UserGuide.pdf
Chris
I have switched both of mine over to program mode. I basically got rid of the strobe on the high mode and kept level 21/22 for both primary and high modes so I can use the lights as tactical momentary lights or be on a low mode and hold to move back to high mode instead of defaulting to strobe mode.
Wicked cool find. Thanks as defaulting the strobe was one of my very minor complaints about this light.
As was said above easiest way to do this is to turn the light on. Place it bezel down on a table. Once you have the light on and bezel down use your index finger or palm of your hand to start clicking. You DO NOT have to count 250 exact clicks. Once you reach the 250 or whatever point is necessary the light will start to flash (do this is a darker room and pay attention to the light escaping from the bezel) Once the light starts to flash click one more time and hold. This puts you into program mode.
So basically in order to set up an 85T or 120T to be a programmable tactical light, removing the strobe as I have done follow the steps below.
1-Turn light on to primary setting using a single click
2-Place light (powered on primary setting) bezel down on a hard flat surface (table)
3-Using your palm or finger begin clicking the light (250 times) Must be done reasonably quickly but not onerously so
4-Continue clicking until you see the light begin to blink at this point continue to click one more time and HOLD the last click. NOTE THIS IS NOT A STOP CLICKING THING IT MUST BE A SMOOTH TRANSITION JUST DO ONE MORE CLICK AND HOLD BASICALLY 251 AND HOLD.
5-Light will begin to flash indicating it is in the program menu
6-Click through the menu settings until you get to number 9 (9 clicks)
7-Once on menu setting 9 (dim to bright indicates this) click and hold to turn this setting on. Hold the click for 2ish seconds until the light turns off.
8-Light will now act as a normal 85P or 120P model.
9-Turn the light back on and do the click clickhold to latch the light into the highest mode or strobe for the T models
10-While light is on / strobing click click clickhold (Continue to hold) to begin the various light level ramp up routine. Light will strobe, flash etc. and then go into a serious of incremental ramp up changes of successively brighter light.
11-Once it has reached the level you wish, with the highest level being indicated by two flashes simply release the button you have been holding.
12-Turn off light
13-When light comes back on the high mode that used to be strobe will now be set to whatever you set it to, in my case another highest level setting that allows me to use momentary high in a tactical manner or do the click and hold from other lower settings to give me maximum light as well.
Hope this helps those trying to do this. I am going to change the battery in my 120T to double check that it holds the P mode settings.
The 120P/85P manual found below will work as it states once you have finished steps 1-8.
http://www.novatac.com/downloads/Novatac-EDC-P-UserGuide.pdf
Chris
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