That's really good to know, Auto. Did you just drop the entire light (without cell, of course, lol) into a pot of boiling water? And for how long? Like about as long as it takes to make hard boiled eggs? 
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Sold/Expired Tana eMt1 module for Surefire M1 IR Illuminator
- Thread starter Tana
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autogiro
Enlightened
Exactly! Water needs to come to a very high continuous boil. Nice thing is that you can't over cook the M1... I have started to use a corning ware pot to do this since some stainless pots seem to react to the process. Time in the boil varies depending on when I remember to take it out of the water. It just has to be in long enough to make the thread locker pliable again.
And yes, no tail cap or grip rings should go into the pot. This method has worked on every SF light I've ever had to get into. Also works for bezels, "E" tail cap upgrades too.
Auto
And yes, no tail cap or grip rings should go into the pot. This method has worked on every SF light I've ever had to get into. Also works for bezels, "E" tail cap upgrades too.
Auto
That's really good to know, Auto. Did you just drop the entire light (without cell, of course, lol) into a pot of boiling water? And for how long? Like about as long as it takes to make hard boiled eggs?
I'll try it! And then buy some of these great modules. You da man, Auto!
Tana
Flashlight Enthusiast
These modules are still on hold until I find worthy replacement reflector... so mix patience as well with those plans...
BTW, Alltrade strap wrenches (two grey large ones) and 2000W hairdryer will do wonders with most Surefires... No need to boil stuff...
BTW, Alltrade strap wrenches (two grey large ones) and 2000W hairdryer will do wonders with most Surefires...
No need to boil stuff...
I have a stock unit that I'd be happy to send to you for experimentation. I'd rather have a single LED than a triple in this platform
ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond
Flashlight Enthusiast
Troy - I haven't attempted to open my M1 yet. Let me give it a shot and see what happens. I usually use the strap from a strap wrench but into two pieces and then secure on each side of the threaded parts with some large vice-grip pliers. That and some heat should do the trick.
Once I get it open I'm going to do some measurements and see what's possible inside the head. All the better if Tana can get the reflector part working again, but if not I'll need some alternative. Also going to see if a 18mm bore is possible.
m4a1usr
Enlightened
If you choose do the "typical" 18mm bore which seems to be approx .735" ID or there abouts. You might end up with a very thin walled M1. The body of the M1 where the ribs are machined has a exterior minimum of .792". That would leave you with a wall thickness of .0285". About the thickness of a credit card. However the battery you plan to use might dictate how much you could increase that wall thickness. 18mm is aprox .708 so add the thickness of the heat shrink and tad bit of play for batt drop out. Maybe a bore of .720" might work? that would increase the wall thickness to .036". Either way not an easy decision when looking at the numbers.
ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond
Flashlight Enthusiast
Good info - thanks. I guess a 18mm bore may not be in the future for this one.
Tana
Flashlight Enthusiast
No worries there...
I've bored quite the few of these M1 bodies (part of M1A2 Quad builds) for 18350 cell and they are just great...
Diameter inside the grip/outside o-ring grooves is still bigger than tailcap o-ring groove... and that tailcap groove is exactly the same as on any 6P, C2, Z2, etc... yet we all still bore our P60 hosts... also bare in mind, 18340 cells are slimmer than most 18650 cells so inside bore can be slightly slimmer - for even more durability (although better to stay with 18650 bore since then 18650 cell can be used with help of A19 extender)...
This is M1A2...
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greatscoot
Flashlight Enthusiast
That's really good to know, Auto. Did you just drop the entire light (without cell, of course, lol) into a pot of boiling water? And for how long? Like about as long as it takes to make hard boiled eggs?
It took me a while to get mine open. First I used a heat gun and strap wrenches. When that didn't work, I poured boiling water over the head then used the strap wrenches and that seemed to work for me. I was able to open it without leaving any marks.
I opened my M1 using the same method I do on other light related items (heads, bezel rings, switches).
Seal it it up in a zip lock bag, drop it in boiling water for a few minutes, and remove. Thing usually open right up then. If not, try one more boil. Parts are crazy hot to handle at that point.
Seal it it up in a zip lock bag, drop it in boiling water for a few minutes, and remove. Thing usually open right up then. If not, try one more boil. Parts are crazy hot to handle at that point.
46n2
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2008
- Messages
- 13
Still want me to send my M-1 to you?
Tana
Flashlight Enthusiast
No need... it's the lack of proper reflector that this project is standing still... so until I find a good one, it's a dead project...
46n2
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2008
- Messages
- 13
Once more I was shot down 
What if you did a triple? would you be able to do something like that without a reflector?
Tana
Flashlight Enthusiast
Too complex with little return... optics would be machined to smaller diameter, head would have to be bored out, lens has to be broken then replaced with proper sized one (and material) as it's press fit... just too much trouble with something that fits E1E like a glove...
However, fitting A2 head on M1 then it's a completely different beast... quad, 18350 bored body, etc...
Nice! OK so I'mnow off to find an A2 head is what your saying?
Tana
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'm not saying anything... picture says a 1000 words...
I wish I can source out those old reflectors but like most of good things in world, they get phased out for other things which we might not like/couldn't use...
