tyxxvxl
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: The V54 Lounge.
Ha ha small world
Ha ha small world
The lounge 2104 (Closed)
- Thread starter CyclingSalmon14
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CyclingSalmon14
Enlightened
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2014
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- 944
Re: The V54 Lounge.
Just put together my first two P60 lights and impressed but on one I am haveing odd switch behaviour so after advise.
It's a sportac triple 219 in a 2*18650 Extended L2T host.
The switch turns in everytime and even momentary might end up turning it on fully.
However sometimes it will turn of fine but 9/10 times it takes about 5/6 or more try to turn it off and makes little diffrance If I try ti turn it off after a min or straight away so any ideas?
Just put together my first two P60 lights and impressed but on one I am haveing odd switch behaviour so after advise.
It's a sportac triple 219 in a 2*18650 Extended L2T host.
The switch turns in everytime and even momentary might end up turning it on fully.
However sometimes it will turn of fine but 9/10 times it takes about 5/6 or more try to turn it off and makes little diffrance If I try ti turn it off after a min or straight away so any ideas?
chops728
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: The V54 Lounge.
Is anything loose in the tail cap--that's what it sounds like--maybe the boot isn't aligned correctly with switch--does it click correctly--have you tried the tail cap off the other light
CyclingSalmon14
Enlightened
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2014
- Messages
- 944
Re: The V54 Lounge.
Click feels fine will try switch swap and update,nothing seems loose but will double check.
Tried loosening it off half a turn but now diffrance.
Click feels fine will try switch swap and update,nothing seems loose but will double check.
Tried loosening it off half a turn but now diffrance.
Alex1234
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: The V54 Lounge.
Bunch of TK61vn V3.5 beamshot comparisons
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-5-BEAMSHOT-COMPARSION-SHOTS-VS-ALL-MY-LIGHTS
Bunch of TK61vn V3.5 beamshot comparisons
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-5-BEAMSHOT-COMPARSION-SHOTS-VS-ALL-MY-LIGHTS
panag
Enlightened
Re: The V54 Lounge.
very very nice pictures thank you!!!!!! have you got my message???? I will try to make some beamshot comparison with my lights especially (tk61vn v2 fiatlux vs tn31mb):wave:Bunch of TK61vn V3.5 beamshot comparisons
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-5-BEAMSHOT-COMPARSION-SHOTS-VS-ALL-MY-LIGHTS
CyclingSalmon14
Enlightened
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2014
- Messages
- 944
Re: The V54 Lounge.
Hmm noticed it was turning on and off and flickering just setting it down on a hahard surface or if I compress the light slightly.
Lossend of the tail cap more and seems to be a bit better now I think I just tied it up to much.
Quick one is it om for there to be a 1-2 mm gap between the head and body?
I foil wrapped and could not push it in so took some off and just about managed to squeeze it in but boy it was a tight fit ahah wow at least it will manage the heat well.
Followed vinh video on how to do it.
Even with the gap I know it's waterproof as must have used about 3gram of silicone for the while light lol �� very very well lubed ahah.
But is there any other reason the head should be fully pushed down? I can't get it any lower no matter how much I turn.
I think I did a pretty ok job tbh for my first try.
Hmm noticed it was turning on and off and flickering just setting it down on a hahard surface or if I compress the light slightly.
Lossend of the tail cap more and seems to be a bit better now I think I just tied it up to much.
Quick one is it om for there to be a 1-2 mm gap between the head and body?
I foil wrapped and could not push it in so took some off and just about managed to squeeze it in but boy it was a tight fit ahah wow at least it will manage the heat well.
Followed vinh video on how to do it.
Even with the gap I know it's waterproof as must have used about 3gram of silicone for the while light lol �� very very well lubed ahah.
But is there any other reason the head should be fully pushed down? I can't get it any lower no matter how much I turn.
I think I did a pretty ok job tbh for my first try.
Last edited:
ven
Flashaholic
Re: The V54 Lounge.
Could it be the cells Mr salmon,maybe too long for example,i also found less is better with lube. I now lube the O rings and just a dab on the threads(i used to put too much on imo). The lube has to go somewhere and with heat generated it will thin out not to mention will put additional stress on the threads. Only thoughts
Could it be the cells Mr salmon,maybe too long for example,i also found less is better with lube. I now lube the O rings and just a dab on the threads(i used to put too much on imo). The lube has to go somewhere and with heat generated it will thin out not to mention will put additional stress on the threads. Only thoughts
ven
Flashaholic
Re: The V54 Lounge.
WOW Vinh,awesome pic
WOW Vinh,awesome pic
chops728
Flashlight Enthusiast
birderbill
Newly Enlightened
Re: I'm confused about Dedome and how it helps
Dedoming generally increases the intensity of the hotspot and therefore the "throw". The It also decreases the total output (lumens) somewhat, but not enough that its ever bothered me.
It also for some reason usually changes the tint of the light. I dedomed an SST90 led and (IIRC) it seemed slightly bluer. The XM-L2 widely used in flashlights get a little warmer, but they also often have a slightly green tint that I really hate. The MT-G2 turns a real yellow that at first looks awful, but I like for outdoor use.
I really like the XM-L dedomed throw results, but the color shift is usually a no-go for me.
For a little more dedomed tint shift check out these threads:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?381221-PDT-%96-Premium-Dedome-Tint
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...PDT-tint-comparisons-and-beamshots&highlight=
Dedoming generally increases the intensity of the hotspot and therefore the "throw". The It also decreases the total output (lumens) somewhat, but not enough that its ever bothered me.
It also for some reason usually changes the tint of the light. I dedomed an SST90 led and (IIRC) it seemed slightly bluer. The XM-L2 widely used in flashlights get a little warmer, but they also often have a slightly green tint that I really hate. The MT-G2 turns a real yellow that at first looks awful, but I like for outdoor use.
I really like the XM-L dedomed throw results, but the color shift is usually a no-go for me.
For a little more dedomed tint shift check out these threads:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?381221-PDT-%96-Premium-Dedome-Tint
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...PDT-tint-comparisons-and-beamshots&highlight=
gofastman
Enlightened
Re: I'm confused about Dedome and how it helps
I don't understand why removing the dome causes this
I don't understand why removing the dome causes this
birderbill
Newly Enlightened
Re: I'm confused about Dedome and how it helps
Since we are on the topic of De-doming... Here's a good read.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...e-to-de-dome-SST-amp-not-to-suffer-Lumen-Loss
Since we are on the topic of De-doming... Here's a good read.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...e-to-de-dome-SST-amp-not-to-suffer-Lumen-Loss
Re: I'm confused about Dedome and how it helps
Throw is mostly a function of putting as much lux as possible on a distant target...and that means lumens per square meter, or, more simply, the most lumens possible on the smallest area possible.
To focus a beam, ideally, it would be a "point source", a single point, so that the collimation would be theoretically perfect...all the "rays" from one point WOULD focus right where you want them.
So far at least, we have no devices that emit light from a single point...even a laser beam has 3 dimensions.
So, the compromise is to make the "point source" as small as possible...so more of what is emitted can be focused BETTER.
The dome over an LED magnifies the emitter if you look down into your light. A magnified image looks larger, so, it makes the apparent emitter surface look larger, and, therefore, have less of a tight focus (A larger source).
When you remove the dome, the system "sees" a smaller emitter, and, therefore, throws what is emitted farther.
So, for a given LED, dedoming it, or making it w/o a dome, etc, produces a smaller source which can be focused tighter and produce more throw. The refractive index change also improves lumen output with a dome, hence one of the reasons its there.
The dome, which magnified the LED, improved the lumen output, but not necessarily the hot spot output more than the corona out put, etc...typically, it made the corona or hot spot fatter. (The same light across a fatter area is less intense)
IE: A "normal" beam has a central hot spot (The ONLY part measured when looking at "throw"), a donut of somewhat dimmer light around the hotspot, called the corona, and, light that missed the reflector/focus system altogether, called spill (It spills out, unfocused...).
The dome is a way to control the relative size and lumen distribution in the 3 above parts of the beam. Removing it changes that proportion, typically stealing some corona and adding it to the hotspot.
So, if the light normally used a dome and produced a total of 1,000 L OTF, for example, maybe 40% of that was hotspot, 50% was corona and 10% was spill. That means the throw is limited to ~ 400 L of the total.
If dedomed, it might take another 400 L or so from the corona, and maybe some of the splill, and about double the lumens now going into the throw.
If you remember that throw is in lux, and lux is lumens per square meter, doubling the lumens doubles the lux right off the bat.
So, dedoming can often double the lumens re-proportioned into the throw, by emitting them from a smaller surface area for the system to focus...so it focuses more light into the hot spot, where its thrown. It can also make the hot spot smaller, which means the same lumens are now concentrated into a smaller area, which is more intense (More lux).
Some people lock into "smaller emitter = more throw", and forget that a larger emitter, if producing more lumens per square millimeter of that LED, can out throw the smaller emitter...as its getting its concentration of lumens higher by simply making more of them than the smaller emitter can.
So, depending on what's focusing the light, while a smaller emitter/de-domed emitter will have more throw all else being equal....all else are not always equal.
The other issue is tint shift....which touches on another aspect of the dome, which is that the dome has a refractive index and will tend to have an impact on the light shined through it. When you remove the dome, you remove whatever that influence was.
In MOST cases, the dome made the light passing through it less warm...so, removing the dome allows the removed warmth to remain, so, the beam tends to get warmer in tint when dedomed.
Throw is mostly a function of putting as much lux as possible on a distant target...and that means lumens per square meter, or, more simply, the most lumens possible on the smallest area possible.
To focus a beam, ideally, it would be a "point source", a single point, so that the collimation would be theoretically perfect...all the "rays" from one point WOULD focus right where you want them.
So far at least, we have no devices that emit light from a single point...even a laser beam has 3 dimensions.
So, the compromise is to make the "point source" as small as possible...so more of what is emitted can be focused BETTER.
The dome over an LED magnifies the emitter if you look down into your light. A magnified image looks larger, so, it makes the apparent emitter surface look larger, and, therefore, have less of a tight focus (A larger source).
When you remove the dome, the system "sees" a smaller emitter, and, therefore, throws what is emitted farther.
So, for a given LED, dedoming it, or making it w/o a dome, etc, produces a smaller source which can be focused tighter and produce more throw. The refractive index change also improves lumen output with a dome, hence one of the reasons its there.
The dome, which magnified the LED, improved the lumen output, but not necessarily the hot spot output more than the corona out put, etc...typically, it made the corona or hot spot fatter. (The same light across a fatter area is less intense)
IE: A "normal" beam has a central hot spot (The ONLY part measured when looking at "throw"), a donut of somewhat dimmer light around the hotspot, called the corona, and, light that missed the reflector/focus system altogether, called spill (It spills out, unfocused...).
The dome is a way to control the relative size and lumen distribution in the 3 above parts of the beam. Removing it changes that proportion, typically stealing some corona and adding it to the hotspot.
So, if the light normally used a dome and produced a total of 1,000 L OTF, for example, maybe 40% of that was hotspot, 50% was corona and 10% was spill. That means the throw is limited to ~ 400 L of the total.
If dedomed, it might take another 400 L or so from the corona, and maybe some of the splill, and about double the lumens now going into the throw.
If you remember that throw is in lux, and lux is lumens per square meter, doubling the lumens doubles the lux right off the bat.
So, dedoming can often double the lumens re-proportioned into the throw, by emitting them from a smaller surface area for the system to focus...so it focuses more light into the hot spot, where its thrown. It can also make the hot spot smaller, which means the same lumens are now concentrated into a smaller area, which is more intense (More lux).
Some people lock into "smaller emitter = more throw", and forget that a larger emitter, if producing more lumens per square millimeter of that LED, can out throw the smaller emitter...as its getting its concentration of lumens higher by simply making more of them than the smaller emitter can.
So, depending on what's focusing the light, while a smaller emitter/de-domed emitter will have more throw all else being equal....all else are not always equal.
The other issue is tint shift....which touches on another aspect of the dome, which is that the dome has a refractive index and will tend to have an impact on the light shined through it. When you remove the dome, you remove whatever that influence was.
In MOST cases, the dome made the light passing through it less warm...so, removing the dome allows the removed warmth to remain, so, the beam tends to get warmer in tint when dedomed.
Last edited:
gofastman
Enlightened
Re: I'm confused about Dedome and how it helps
Fantastic TEEJ! Thanks, makes a bit of sense now
Fantastic TEEJ! Thanks, makes a bit of sense now
tyxxvxl
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: I'm confused about Dedome and how it helps
I love TEEJ's explinations.
Very easy to understand and follow!
Thanks
Ty
I love TEEJ's explinations.
Very easy to understand and follow!
Thanks
Ty
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