The Malkoff Front Porch

[etc]

Here's the results of my informal test, which is of limited value for anything but runtime of this battery/driver/LED combo.

Malkoff MD3/Hound Dog XP-L N
Keeppower protected 2300mAh 18500 x2
60min 9sec

Keep in mind this is a hack job, not a "real" test or review.
I just ran 10min, pulled the batteries and checked resting voltage, then reinserted the batteries to check current for 10 seconds, and recorded whatever it stabilized at.


00: 1.80A * (4.20+4.21)V
10: 1.84A * (4.04+4.04)V
20: 1.93A * (3.89+3.89)V
30: 2.02A * (3.75+3.76)V
40: 2.09A * (3.59+3.59)V
50: 2.21A * (3.39+3.40)V
60: 2.87A * (2.95+2.95)V
Undervoltage protection kicked in at 60:09.

If you go back and look at HKJ's test of the 2000mAh KP 18500s that I linked above, they lasted 57 minutes under a constant 2A load. The Hound Dog pulled over 2A from the 30 minute mark on, so I averaged everything before and after that point.
I won't bore everyone with the math based on the time and my current averages compared to the 2000mAh(which are actually the Panasonic 2040mAh cells), but I came up with a 208mAh difference at 2A.
Again, that's based on averaging numbers taken every 10 minutes, not an actual discharge curve, but it comes out to a 10.4 minute difference with a 2A load.

I don't know if it's the same circuit, or how the current draw compared, but INFRNL's runtime test of the older HD XM-L was 55 minutes with the 2000mAh, while I got 60 with the newer XP-L and 2300s, so don't expect a big difference, either way.

Just more proof 18500 is a dead-end, with 2x18650 that are just a bit longer you are twice the runtime.

I tried to make the 2x18500 config work for the last 10 or 15 years, it never did.

 

[Owen]

Yeah, that's why you used it for 10-15yrs. Or does it just take you that long to figure out whether something works for your imaginary uses?
Funny how it was "perfect" until you switched to something else



Just got 3pr of these Keeppower 3V R123s:
https://www.illumn.com/16340-keeppo...utton-top-2-pack-please-read-description.html
This is an unusual cell. 3.00V out of the box, and took an hour or two to charge up. 3.02V after charging, and 3.00V again a little while afterwards.
Again, there is confusion between Keeppower and Illumn's information, and also with the cells' own manual.
The linked page says: "THIS BATTERY CHARGES TO 4.2V BUT OUTPUTS 3V - YOU MUST USE THE ONBOARD CHARGER TO CHARGE THE CELL.", while the manual(which I suspect is for the 3.7V version), gives the option of charging on a regular li-ion charger, which does not work.

Curious to see how they work in practice.
Current draw for L/M/H is 40mA/230mA/1070mA on a fresh cell in the MDC HA 123.

‐-‐‐--------------------
Edit: These are interesting cells for sure!
Due to the confusion over voltage, I was not sure what to make of the 860mAh capacity, but did a runtime on high, expecting <50 minutes.

00m 3.00V 1070mA
10m 3.01V 1080mA
20m 3.01V 1060mA
30m 3.00V 1090mA
40m 3.00V 1070mA
47m 38s protection 0V

Consistent voltage and current draw throughout, and based on comparison with another light, it appears to maintain the same brightness the entire time.
A regulated battery?!?
I have no idea how it works, yet, but this is fantastic!

I also don't know much about the MDC 123's circuitry, beyond using PWM for the lower modes. I remember a past comment from Gene that it "tracks voltage", so assume it's voltage, rather than current, regulated.
Here is INFRNL's runtime graph with a CR123A primary:

Maintaining battery voltage would mean maintaining consistent output, though...

I am VERY happy with this. My wish was for a MDC R123 that supported a 3.7V li-ion. That would have allowed using rechargeables, but presumably still suffered the dwindling output as voltage dropped. This is much better than I had even hoped for.

 

[flatline]

What do you guys usually use in an MD3? 18650+18350? 3*CR123?

If I'm running my M31, I use 2xAA.
If I'm running M361 or a M61 varient I run 18650 + spacer.

--flatline

 

[kerneldrop]

Just more proof 18500 is a dead-end.

Too bad every battery can't be the superior 17500

I am VERY happy with this. My wish was for a MDC R123 that supported a 3.7V li-ion. That would have allowed using rechargeables, but presumably still suffered the dwindling output as voltage dropped. This is much better than I had even hoped for.

Mine should be here tomorrow. I need to go back to the link you posted to the 18500 graphs and figure out what it's illustrating.

 

[thermal guy]

How are you measuring the current draw in your MDC?

 

[Owen]

Digital Multimeter. Don't know what else I'd use?

Was out of my office when my fully discharged 3V R123 finished charging. They don't get in a hurry. Between 2hr 40min and 3hr.

 

[thermal guy]

Well yes but how do you get a reading with the mdx body? How do you access the battery?

 

[TILL-22]

Take off the tailcap and connect the black feeler to the battery's negative side and the red feeler to the exposed non anodized part of the battery tube. This way you close the circuit and you can read either the tension or current according to what you set your DMM to.

 

[thermal guy]

I get how to check draw. But how do you do it when the mdc has no tailcap?

 

[TILL-22]

Oh sorry you're right, my bad. I'll let Owen explain how he measures that!

I suppose he connects a wire between the negative side of the cell to the threads to close the circuit and then measures current and tension.

 

[thermal guy]

I'll just put the head on a e series body. Easiest way I can think of.

 

[TILL-22]

It's definitely less finicky haha!

 

[kerneldrop]

How are you measuring the current draw in your MDC?

Will the two methods below work for the Malkoff's without tailcaps?
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...-Simple-guide-to-using-a-DMM-for-measurements

 

[kerneldrop]

I'll wait till Gene has a 21700 version of his lights, or a significant upgrade to his M61HOT. I honest think and hope the PLHv2 is what the M61HOT could be in the future.

I've come to appreciate the modest lumen offerings from Malkoff after messing with a real 4800lm 21700.
Now I get why Malkoff doesn't pump out high-lumen offerings...holding on to that 4800lm light takes BBQ gloves.

I feel Malkoff's E1 Hyper Throw 1CR123 325lm head out-performs its modest 325lm output. So, I'm no longer sold on just lumens, candela, or multi-purpose beams

Not directly related, but I just can't get over Modlite's feature description "...excellent overall light head good for indoor or outdoor use". Maybe they mean indoor a huge empty warehouse, since its not specified

 

[thermal guy]

Yes Malkoff could come out with a 4000 lumen model but wouldn't maintain that for long. Rather have steady 1000-1200 throughout the runtime. Or close to it anyways.

 

[QMT93]

@kerneldrop @thermal guy I agree with you both. What I meant by the M61HOT upgrade is the same, or similar spec to the PLHv2 (40k cd, and about 1300 lumens), not more. The current M61HOT is a good general light for both indoors and outdoors. The PLHv2 is a good light for outdoors only, in my opinion, unless we're talking warehouse, as you said.

Regarding 21700, it's the longer battery life, while the body doesn't get that much bigger. Even if the MD2 remains the same, the run time of the Wild Cat, Hound Dog XM-L, and Hound Dog Super will improve with 2x21700 in the MD4.

Sent from my LM-V450 using Tapatalk

 

[thermal guy]

21700 imo are definitely the way to go with the battery hogs in the Malkoff line. Also you put a low draw M61 "LL,LLL,LLL"in a MD2 with a 5000 mah battery your talking about runtimes measured in months.

 

[Owen]

Will the two methods below work for the Malkoff's without tailcaps?

Yeah, you're just establishing contact between the battery and the head.

 

[greatscoot]

I just picked up a couple of button top (Vapecell) 14500's but the seem a little too long for the AA body with a Haiku head. Anyone else experience this?

 

[thermal guy]

I can't afford a Haiku head😁