rednek
Newly Enlightened
Thats good news. Thanks for the update.:thumbsup:
The new OSTS Nightmaster (in white, green, red, and soon infrared versions)
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rednek
Newly Enlightened
Recived the light today and can't wait for thesun to go down.,
JohnGalway
Newly Enlightened
Recived the light today and can't wait for thesun to go down.,
What colour did you get? Mine is in the post ( which is never fast enough when waiting on a new toy
)
rednek
Newly Enlightened
What colour did you get? Mine is in the post ( which is never fast enough when waiting on a new toy
I got a white one. All I can say is that it is probably the most unpractical light I have ever paid for the light is unusable at any thing closer the 50 yards the hot spot is so tight that trying to shine it on a rabbit is extremely difficult the rabbit makes one hop and you need to scan all around the yard to try and find it again. That being said I Love this thing. i
langham
Enlightened
I was wondering why there wasn't a dedicated thread for the Nightmaster as well, but I guess if Michael doesn't want to make one then that is the reason. They do look great, but I have never been much of a fan of the aspheric lights. I don't use them for hunting, I am just an obsessed modder, but I guess if I was a hunter these would be the thing to have. The price is pretty good for over 200K lux, you can't get something that bright for that price anywhere else. I wish I could test the cd rating for all of the lights that I have made recently I have had some amazing results with these new Cree leds, 15% is a lot for an led, and without any change in the emission profile. I also found that the original XML had a bit of a green ring, but the new ones have none of that. I think he probably used the new XP-E2 led and de-domed it if I had to guess, but there is no telling with Saabluster, that would make since with what has been posted so far with the lights and if they are driven at 1.8A vs the stock 1.5A that would explain some of the gains, and with the thermal mods that he normally includes with his lights that shouldn't be any problem for these little guys. I want to buy one, but I just lost my EDC that I have had for 5 years and had to purchase a new one. I went with the Supbeam L25S and it was a bit expensive to turn around and just buy another light for the sole purpose of buying a new light.
JohnGalway
Newly Enlightened
Mine arrived this morning, hope it's dry out tonight
JohnGalway
Newly Enlightened
I love this light. I haven't yet seen a fox with it, but I was watching sheep and lambs last night past 270 yards on one of the floodier settings. I had the stock Nightmaster on trial and didn't get on with it, I have an initial feeling the OSTS Nightmaster is the scope mounted light I have been waiting a very long time for. Will put in further info once I've used it in anger.
JohnGalway
Newly Enlightened
What's the Kcd rating of the stock Nightmaster? My OSTS is 193Kcd.
MikeAusC
Enlightened
And that's why the Lumens for a real-world Thrower is a very useful measure.
Yes and no.
The beam angle and cd tell you more about what you MIGHT see...but lumens are a part of the equation for sure.
Its a little like trying to judge the track time of a car when all you know is the horsepower.
The combination of torque, handling, aerodynamics, curb weight, etc...can make proportionally more of a difference.
So, for a throw oriented modder - the cd is the number of concern...as that describes the throw.
If you know the cd and the lumens, you might know the total out put, and how far the beam reaches, but you still don't know if the beam is all hot spot like an aspherical tends to be, or has a lot of spill, or a large or small corona, or, the proportion of all those lumens in each of those sub-categories.
For example, I could have a 2,000 lumen light with a cd of 50k, and a 1,000 light with a cd of 50k.
The hot spot for both lights might be the same size, but the 1k L light has all hot spot, and the 2k L light has half its lumens in the hot spot, 25% in the corona that falls off at 1/3 the range of the hot spot, and the last 25% in spill that is making a pool of light around your feet, etc....or any other possible proportion.
The cd gives the range for the maximum section of the beam.
The lumens tell you the total output.
The total beam angle tells you the amount of spread that all of those lumens will need to cover (Not counting spill IE: Hot spot and corona)
The hot spot's beam angle tells you the size of the hot spot at any given range.
So, if you need to draw a picture of the beam, the hot spot and total beam angle, combined with the cd, allow you to draw it. If you knew the PROPORTION of lumens in all parts of the beam, and/or the lux at range for more than just the hot spot, you could make a more detailed drawing.
If you took an aerial picture of a beam - you'd see a tiny spot where it started, and then it would look like a candle flame, where the spill would make it fatter, and then tail off, and be thick until the corona range tapered off, and then a peaked hot spot that grew progressively thinner as the last vestiges of the beam's maximum cd beamed out to their limits...finally tapering off to invisibility in a last hair of light.
That's a predictable pattern for reflector lights. For asphericals, where the beam is a picture of the LED, the beam angles are VERY tight...but, the picture of the LED does get progressively larger as it gets further away....and there is not really much corona/spill to worry about.
So - for the aspherics - If you know the beam angle and the cd, you know pretty much everything...because its simple math after that.
Stock's around 100k, so the mod doubles it, although the spot is made smaller. But the thing is if you want both flood and throw, you'll have to get HIDs or real incan hotwires. Aspherics are the only way to get real throw in your pocket but the casuality of the design is flood.
The only option that i can think of which suits your needs would be a Polarion PH50/X1, which was designed to have a use-able corona around the hotspot. It has been measured at 400K lux so hotspot throw is similar. It is however, much more expensive and a bit larger as well. Any smaller HID like a magicfire or firefox is going to have only 200K lux or less and larger HIDs are certainly not going to fit in your pocket...
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JohnGalway
Newly Enlightened
The OSTS Nightmaster fits the bill for my requirements for a scope mounted light perfectly
Well that's great, many people who buy aspherics complain that the hotspot's too small, you just can't get everthing at once.The OSTS Nightmaster fits the bill for my requirements for a scope mounted light perfectly
JohnGalway
Newly Enlightened
For me the OSTS NM is dedicated to only one job, turn on, shoot fox, turn off. Haven't done that yet, but at 270 yards I was watching ewes and lambs messing about with the NM set to more of a flood than spot. One of my concerns for a scope light has always been will it fill up my field of view at the ranges I shoot at, it does, so colour me happy
I haven't tried it as a search light or anything like that, but I never bought it with that job in mind so that part doesn't matter in my work.
Hey guys can someone with this light throw up some beamshots? Ive never owned an aspherical before and am thinking about grabbing this one. How does the focus work exactly, does it go from flood to throw or is it only used to sharpen the hotspot?
Have a look here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?351575-Olight-SR95S-UT-Intimidator-Review
It's a stock nightmaster so expect a hotspot half the area and around the same intensity of the SR95UT hotspot.
JohnGalway
Newly Enlightened
Not sure my camera would be good enough, I'll have to find it first, I think it's a panasonic lumix point and shoot type camera
GulfCoastToad
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2011
- Messages
- 154
This thread is so freaking worthless without pictures. You kids need to quit talking about lumens and go outside with a camera and tripod. You owe it to us all
