The Official Zebralight Thread .

[Tachead]

Not like the old days when cw meant blue or green. I like the white tint. I'm just mad H2 not over 1000 lumens as advertised unless the sc62w has more lumens in H1 than advertised. Something wrong somewhere.

Could it have something to do with the different emitters and different reflectors? I hear the SC62 was quite a bit more throwy then these newer models(SC63/64). Sometimes a more throwy light will seem brighter then one that is the same output but more floody.

 

[recDNA]

Could it have something to do with the different emitters and different reflectors? I hear the SC62 was quite a bit more throwy then these newer models(SC63/64). Sometimes a more throwy light will seem brighter then one that is the same output but more floody.

That's a factor but it isn't close. Even the spill is WAY brighter in 62w H1 compared to 64 H2. Not really that close.

I may eventually look to trade the 64 for an MKIV Hi (not hinting for offers like I said I need time) . I'll give it some time. I won't sell because it isn't worth paying the fee unless selling several flashlights and I don't really have much to sell.

I obviously like the size of the 64 but I do miss the beam pattern of the 62w. Tint not really a factor for me. I like the tints of both.

I regret the purchase at this point.

 

[Tachead]

That's a factor but it isn't close. Even the spill is WAY brighter in 62w H1 compared to 64 H2. Not really that close.

I may eventually look to trade the 64 for an MKIV Hi (not hinting for offers like I said I need time) . I'll give it some time. I won't sell because it isn't worth paying the fee unless selling several flashlights and I don't really have much to sell.

I obviously like the size of the 64 but I do miss the beam pattern of the 62w. Tint not really a factor for me. I like the tints of both.

I regret the purchase at this point.

Don't forget you can always send it back to ZL for an exchange or refund within 30 days. I sent my MKIV HI back.

 

[recDNA]

Don't forget you can always send it back to ZL for an exchange or refund within 30 days.

It works fine so I wouldn't rip them off with a return. An exchange is a good idea. Why did u return the MKIV HI?

 

[Tachead]

It works fine so I wouldn't rip them off with a return. An exchange is a good idea. Why did u return the MKIV HI?

It's not ripping them off. They have the policy for a reason. If you are not happy with the light in any way you can return it. I decided I didn't need a third ZL flashlight. I am putting the money towards an OR Boss or HDS Clicky.

 

[recDNA]

It's not ripping them off. They have the policy for a reason. If you are not happy with the light in any way you can return it. I decided I didn't need a third ZL flashlight. I am putting the money towards an OR Boss or HDS Clicky.

I gave some thought to your beam profile analysis and retested the lights. I had been testing at 10m, the length of my playroom. I tested again at 1 meter. No question H2 on 64 is brighter than H1 on 62w but at any distance it is so spread out it appears dim. Also at 1 m I can see a yellow circle around the hotspot of the 64. At any distance it isn't visible in fact there is no hotspot at any distance.

Must have been some reason the MKIV HI was the one to go? Beam profile? Tint?

 

[Tachead]

I gave some thought to your beam profile analysis and retested the lights. I had been testing at 10m, the length of my playroom. I tested again at 1 meter. No question H2 on 64 is brighter than H1 on 62w but at any distance it is so spread out it appears dim. Also at 1 m I can see a yellow circle around the hotspot of the 64. At any distance it isn't visible in fact there is no hotspot at any distance.

Must have been some reason the MKIV HI was the one to go? Beam profile? Tint?

Yeah, these 64's are quite a bit more floody then the 62's from what I hear. That can really change the perception of brightness but, it is nice for close to medium tasks imo.

The beam profile was pretty nice but, a bit throwy for an EDC light imo(particularly for up close tasks). The tint was amazing. It was the best I have ever seen from a Cree and was very similar to some of the Nichia's I have had. In addition to it being a bit throwy for a small EDC light the form factor and clip was not as nice as the 64's for a pocket EDC(I knew this before I got it as I had the Plus XHP50.2). The 64's are quite a bit smaller and more comfortable in the pocket and the screwed on clip is much better imo(especially now that I changed them to custom deep carry clips). The lack of knurling is also easier on the pants and allows it to clip and unclip more smoothly but, it also makes the light less grippy.

The HI still has a lot of benefits though but, I just feel like if I need more throw then the 64's I will go with a bigger light that can actually throw.

 

[recDNA]

You've mentioned my big concern about all of the 600 series - crappy clips and too thick to comfortably carry. I carry a thrower in my coat pocket that isn't that much bigger than the 600 but it also uncomfortable to carry in jeans. The 600 might be better in a little holster but I wear a cell phone pouch on my right side so the holster would have to go on my left. A little too faux tactical for my taste. I'm not military nor police so it is silly to appear to try to LOOK like it.

My best bet may be to simply return it for a refund. I'll give it 2 weeks of edc then decide. I did like programming medium higher. I may program low a little higher too. I don't use the 64 in my bedroom so I have little use for less than 10 lumens.

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

Not like the old days when cw meant blue or green. I like the white tint. I'm just mad H2 not over 1000 lumens as advertised unless the sc62w has more lumens in H1 than advertised. Something wrong somewhere.

Well, if it's any consolation, I doubt you're getting 1600 lumens on H1 either.

 

[recDNA]

Well, if it's any consolation, I doubt you're getting 1600 lumens on H1 either.

H1 produces more output than any other small light I've seen. Whatever it is it is darn bright. I just don't like pure flood.
I really like the new programmable UI (though I would prefer a wifi or other type that doesn't require multiple clicks.) One real beef I have is the lack of pid in modes other than high. I would prefer 2 clicks to get to high and that is doable but H1 without pid is just too dangerous. I would prefer 1 click access to medium the mode I use most.

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

H1 produces more output than any other small light I've seen. Whatever it is it is darn bright. I just don't like pure flood.
I really like the new programmable UI (though I would prefer a wifi or other type that doesn't require multiple clicks.) One real beef I have is the lack of pid in modes other than high. I would prefer 2 clicks to get to high and that is doable but H1 without pid is just too dangerous. I would prefer 1 click access to medium the mode I use most.

Doesn't that light have the new UI? Just program G6 or G7 to whatever 1-click mode you want.

Also, I thought PID was used in the brightest couple of H2 modes as well as H1. So it should be fine. If you're overheating below those levels, then you're probably hiking in a volcano crater.

 

[recDNA]

Doesn't that light have the new UI? Just program G6 or G7 to whatever 1-click mode you want.

Also, I thought PID was used in the brightest couple of H2 modes as well as H1. So it should be fine. If you're overheating below those levels, then you're probably hiking in a volcano crater.

I wanted to program M1 to 1600 lumens. If I do it will have no pid. That way TWO clicks to get to least used mode. Heck I wish I could program H1 to strobe mode so it took 3 clicks to get it. I never use strobe so it is a wasted mode.

 

[Nuppet]

I wanted to program M1 to 1600 lumens. If I do it will have no pid. That way TWO clicks to get to least used mode. Heck I wish I could program H1 to strobe mode so it took 3 clicks to get it. I never use strobe so it is a wasted mode.

I just tested the PID on my H600Fc Mk IV with M1 set to H1 (1568 Lm) in G6 and it works, so not all of the new 18650 lights with the new programmable UI behave the same with respect to PID?

 

[recDNA]

It says right in directions pid on H modes only and others have written it doesn't work. Maybe more will chime in here. I'm not going to search the threads for it but I know folks have written pid doesn't work in M or L mode groups.

If someone with a 64 tests M1 at 1600 and gets definite pid I will do it for sure. Thanks for the 411!

I had it get darn hot in my pocket on L1. I wish all modes had pid. Hot is hot what difference what output.

 

[Nuppet]

It says right in directions pid on H modes only and others have written it doesn't work. Maybe more will chime in here. I'm not going to search the threads for it but I know folks have written pid doesn't work in M or L mode groups.

If someone with a 64 tests M1 at 1600 and gets definite pid I will do it for sure. Thanks for the 411!

I had it get darn hot in my pocket on L1. I wish all modes had pid. Hot is hot what difference what output.

I might have overlooked it but for H600Fc Mk IV, SC64 and SC600w Mk IV Plus there are not written anything that PID not working with H1 mapped to M1.

My understanding is that PID should work as expected: "PID thermal regulated outputs (three highest output levels)" and for my H600Fc it does.

http://www.zebralight.com/SC64-18650-XHP35-Cool-White-Flashlight_p_211.html

 

[recDNA]

I interpret that as H1 H2 H3 but you could be right. I would be positive except I read someone else did exactly what I describe and lost pid on M1 at H1 output.

I just wrote to Zebralight customer service to get a definitive answer.

 

[joelbnyc]

Does anyone know how to to remove the clip from the SC64's? Some kind of tiny star screw it looks like, I wonder if a standard laptop/pc tool set would have the correct one?

 

[Nuppet]

Does anyone know how to to remove the clip from the SC64's? Some kind of tiny star screw it looks like, I wonder if a standard laptop/pc tool set would have the correct one?

I bought pc tool set containing a Torx driver size T6 for removing the clip.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx

 

[SKV89]

I just received my Zebralight SC5W II as a replacement for the SC5C II that I returned because of the horrible green tint. The tint of the SC5W doesn't seem to have the green tint but also doesn't have any pleasing rosy tint I see in the XPL and XPL-HI 5A,5D flashlights that I own.

Now I'm wondering why do I keep hearing how great the Zebralight UI is. I just realized that they don't even have memory mode and it always start on HI with normal click. Starting with low mode is tricky because if you hold the button too long, it begins the cycle and I wouldn't want that to wake up others in the middle of the night. Armytek's UI is far better, although their customer service is horrible (they don't reply to emails).

 

[Nuppet]

I just received my Zebralight SC5W II as a replacement for the SC5C II that I returned because of the horrible green tint. The tint of the SC5W doesn't seem to have the green tint but also doesn't have any pleasing rosy tint I see in the XPL and XPL-HI 5A,5D flashlights that I own.

Now I'm wondering why do I keep hearing how great the Zebralight UI is. I just realized that they don't even have memory mode and it always start on HI with normal click. Starting with low mode is tricky because if you hold the button too long, it begins the cycle and I wouldn't want that to wake up others in the middle of the night. Armytek's UI is far better, although their customer service is horrible (they don't reply to emails).

Your Zebralight has the new UI so that you can program it how you like. I've changed my new Zebralights so that click is low mode, double click is high and long press is medium.

http://www.zebralight.com/SC5w-Mk-II-AA-Flashlight-Neutral-White_p_193.html