Oops, sorry. found it...
I also found it....on the head page (not the complete light pages).
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Triple v5 R33 Engine - 4th LED, 30w limit, Screen Programable, Dual Mode Groups
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I also found it....on the head page (not the complete light pages).
ElectronGuru
Flashaholic
Moddoolar heads are only compatible with Moddoolar bodies and (with adapter) E series bodies. We specifically developed the system for one head, many body setups and enabled alternatives such a P60 support from the same bodies. Malkoff bodies are to large for our heads.
The Moddoolar system offers a smaller package and better thermal performance. But we recognize the importance of the P60 platform. The new v5 board is compatible with a variety of packages and will be incorporated into a P60 dropin format after we boost supplies. Hopefully just a few months.
RI Chevy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thank you for the response!
tab665
Flashlight Enthusiast
would creating another head all together from scratch that would be a direct replacement for the P series heads be out of the question? cost would be much higher, but would eliminate the thermal performance issue.
ElectronGuru
Flashaholic
Think of heat like light. As light passes from one layer to a second layer, it bends/refracts. For example, as sunlight reaches the surface of a lake or pool, it bends. This interference is the principle used in lenses, the light hits the surface of the glass or plastic lens, bends, then hits the air on the backside and bends again. Each transfer from one piece of metal to the next, heat encounters a barrier. So the fewer metal/metal separations between the LED and the open air, the better.
Halogen bulbs (for which P60's were designed) actually like heat. It ensures the material that burns off can redeposit for longer bulb life. In LED P60 implementations, heat forms in the dropin itself, then if the outside of the dropin and inside of the socket are perfectly aligned, the heat jumps to the body, then again from the body threads to the bezel threads. There also tends to be gaps, so that sandwich looks something like metal -> air -> metal -> metal. By the time heat has built up enough in the head to reach and start dissipating to the air, its usually already also built up in the rest of the flashlight.
Making a solid P60 head doesn't change this reality, since the LEDs are still inside the socket and the shell is still outside. There's still 3 layers of metal to get through. In comparison, the Wasp head not only reduces the number of metal parts to 1 (as previous Moddoolar heads did), it puts external air directly underneath the primary shelf, just millimeters from the LEDs. The advantage of P60 is universality. If it didn't already exist, there would be no thermal reason to create it.
BTW, we price Triple Heads and Triple Drops the same. The extra cost on the heads is the bezel ring and lens which themselves are less than Z44s. We also make bodies as small a portion of the overall light price as possible so its easy to have 2 or more. Over time, it will also be cheaper to upgrade the Heads since the Drops can't use the new board upgrade architecture and will need to be replaced outright. So if you don't already have a host, the advantage of the P60 option is limited to format. Having a special C2 or Z2 for example.
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switchoff
Newly Enlightened
Did you have to pay to register on that Lux site?
No.
Eric242
Flashlight Enthusiast
The more specific question would be whether it is free to re-programm a light on the LUX-RC page or if one has to pay a fee to do that (and how much that would be then as well as if it is to be paid every time a new programming is done) 
The more specific question would be whether it is free to re-programm a light on the LUX-RC page or if one has to pay a fee to do that (and how much that would be then as well as if it is to be paid every time a new programming is done)
I don't know what you three talking about. I've had a LUX-RC Labs account for years, long before they were well known in the U.S. It has always been "free" to register - the registration feature on their website originally had other purposes before the new NXS programmer came along. Both account creation and NXS programming are free and I'm not sure what's causing people to think otherwise. It doesn't even make sense...
Eric242
Flashlight Enthusiast
Personaly, I´m just asking a question because Grizzman said he actually did have to pay while you said you don´t.
In that case you should read Grizzman´s post again. Then you know.
Eric
Understood.
I have and I hope he clarifies that post. My suspicion is that he simply misread Switchoff's question to mean "did you have to register on Lux-RC website to program the light?" In which case his answer makes perfect sense.
Regardless, the truth is that use of NXS has always been open to anyone with an Lux-RC account, which was and still is free to all. My intention is only to correct speculation that could potentially confuse newcomers.
Eric242
Flashlight Enthusiast
Well Isaac, it looks like Grizzman is right.
I just registered (that´s free) and tried to save a programm. That´s what pops up when you click on save & programm:
With a third party product you obviously need to buy a programm subscription which is....
... $19 and apparently shipping which would be rather strange (maybe shipping get´s deleted later in the checkout process which I didn´t go through with).
Eric
I just registered (that´s free) and tried to save a programm. That´s what pops up when you click on save & programm:
With a third party product you obviously need to buy a programm subscription which is....
... $19 and apparently shipping which would be rather strange (maybe shipping get´s deleted later in the checkout process which I didn´t go through with).
Eric
2 new 700 mAh AW 18350s
At 6 minutes body was starting to warm up.
At 10 minutes I shut it down - I could still touch the head, it wasn't nearly as hot as a 5.6A Quad that I accidentally had on in a holster (resulted in a thermal shutdown).
The body was quite warm at the head, the batteries were slightly warm to the touch certainly not hot.
Tint. I'm a tint snob, neutral ~somewhere between 4500K & 5000K is where I like my tint, not as warm as an incandescent (although sometimes that is nice)
The tint on this is FANTASTIC. Absolute home run.
Why I say this is because I didn't / don't notice the tint - it's just there. Not blue, not green, not rosy pink, not yellow, not cold white.
And then I read about the ability to program of the light. Absolutely fantastic.
At 6 minutes body was starting to warm up.
At 10 minutes I shut it down - I could still touch the head, it wasn't nearly as hot as a 5.6A Quad that I accidentally had on in a holster (resulted in a thermal shutdown).
The body was quite warm at the head, the batteries were slightly warm to the touch certainly not hot.
Tint. I'm a tint snob, neutral ~somewhere between 4500K & 5000K is where I like my tint, not as warm as an incandescent (although sometimes that is nice)
The tint on this is FANTASTIC. Absolute home run.
Why I say this is because I didn't / don't notice the tint - it's just there. Not blue, not green, not rosy pink, not yellow, not cold white.
ElectronGuru
Flashaholic
Gentlemen, thank you for bringing this to my attention. I want to make a few things clear:
I was not aware of this charge, nor do I endorse or support it.
I am speaking with LUX RC now, to see what can be done.
If nothing changes I will be restructuring my website (OR.com) accordingly.
Neale, thanks for the awesome report!
I was not aware of this charge, nor do I endorse or support it.
I am speaking with LUX RC now, to see what can be done.
If nothing changes I will be restructuring my website (OR.com) accordingly.
Neale, thanks for the awesome report!
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barry
Newly Enlightened
nfetterly,
Beautiful light. Congratulations man. Probably a stupid question, but your times were for the highest light output setting, correct? Thanks.
barry
RI Chevy
Flashlight Enthusiast
That light with the new head/bezel looks real nice! Saving now.
Actually not that stupid a question, here's the rest of the story......at the ~10 minute mark I shut it down, a minute or two later I turned it back on, went back to hi and thought to myself "is that brighter than I was running it?" Well it had been damn bright, but seemed brighter when I turned it back on momentarily - I think it had been stepping down somewhere during the 10 minute run. I thought I may have noticed it once, but wasn't sure.
Another observation - the head cooled off REALLY quickly. I have an Ti EDC SST-50, and had a tri Ti EDC by another maker - I sold the Tri because it heated up way too fast & cooled off way too slowly. I've got several other Tri(s) and a quad or two, this one cools off much faster (hey - it's actually designed to do that!!).
Highly recommended, but you already know that.
ElectronGuru
Flashaholic
Yes, the step downs are very gentle and dynamic. If things cool down for any reason, output goes back up on the next power-on. And you exceeded my 800 mah runtimes with 700mah cells because the step downs also extend runtime. All my times are at continuos 100% power (worst case for battery load).
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