The Official Zebralight Thread

[tech25]

I have a strong preference for the clear lens, but it's a personal thing, and a lot of people like their lenses frosted. Frosted is better for up-close work, no doubt.
But I always figure that it's easier to come up with a field-expedient diffuser than a field-expedient concentrator. And I often stick a pre-cut disc of DCFix onto the battery before I slide it in, so that I'll have it if I want it.

Or like a self respecting flashaholic, you carry multiple lights some clear and some frosted.

On a more serious note, I find a clear lens is more of a general use light- has throw from the hotspot with some spill- downside is there is usually a drop off from the brighter hotspot and dimmer spill that can be distracting up close but not outdoors.

The frosted blends the hot spot and spill a bit so it’s much easier on the eyes closer up but you lose a bit distance for open spaces.

And the flood (no reflector) is just a nice even beam that’s great for indoors and reading. You do lose a lot of distance. Can be frustrating with some tasks like looking in an engine where the broad beam bounces back while you are trying to see in a nook.

My EDC is a regular light with reflector and DC-fix to make it floody and like @lampeDépêche says it’s the best of both worlds can be floody or remove the film for throw.

 

[Bob_McBob]

The only issue I've heard by some is the Zebra switches may get mushy after a while and not work, (this may have been corrected). The Zebra switch was rated at 100,000 clicks, the McBob upgrades are rated about 500,000 clicks. Price difference is negligible on the 2 switch types, so not sure why this wouldn't be addressed. I understand customer support from Zebra is almost non-existent so the only option would be a third party repair like McBob etc.

I don't think Zebralight switches fail at an unusually high rate. It's a combination of a UI that requires a lot of clicks, but moreover that Zebralights just get kept and used a lot longer than many other brands. The ones I receive for modding with mushy or completely broken switches are always very well used.

Is the clear lens considered more allround then frosted? Maybe the H54c N is better for me.

I prefer frosted glass (or beaded optics) for my headlamps because I use them a lot as work lights, as well as for night hiking. I always carry a second light when I'm using a headlamp at night, so I don't care about throw, and the diffused beam with the frosted glass doesn't give me tunnel vision. You can use d-c fix on clear glass, but I know it would be left on 99.9% of the time anyway, so there's no point. Also, the NTG50 and SFT-70 options I offer for modded H600s need the frosted glass for acceptable beam quality.

That said, the H54 is low enough output that the clear glass may be preferable to get enough throw without having to change the battery regularly.

 

[indigon]

I don't think Zebralight switches fail at an unusually high rate. It's a combination of a UI that requires a lot of clicks, but moreover that Zebralights just get kept and used a lot longer than many other brands. The ones I receive for modding with mushy or completely broken switches are always very well used.

Very good to know, I stand corrected. Another Reddit urban myth quashed. Thanks much.

 

[DE73]

Just ordered H54c N. Hope the delivery from China goes smooth.

 

[DE73]

What’s the best disposable AA battery for Zebralight?
Energizer Ultimate Lithium?

 

[indigon]

What's the best disposable AA battery for Zebralight?
Energizer Ultimate Lithium?

Get a Eneloop WHITE battery kit of rechargeables and help out the environment + save money.

 

[jon_slider]

I also use Eneloop White. My backup is Energizer Ultimate Lithium:

 

[ilikeguns40]

I also use Eneloop White. My backup is Energizer Ultimate Lithium.
View attachment 79269

Exactly my setup. Battery wise

 

[jon_slider]

it will scroll up L-M-H regardless of how you program it. No preflash.

respectfully disagree

Preflashes are just a normal part of my Zebra experience. Long Hold from Off in my G6 program, produces a preflash of my 1C (level 6), then MHL. If I use 2 Clic from Off, it also preflashes my 1C output.

this is my present SC64 setup:

I mostly use G6 mode group: levels 5, 7, 10 for EDC
I preset 1 Clic to level 1 when I set the light on my nightstand

 

[DE73]

Get a Eneloop WHITE battery kit of rechargeables and help out the environment + save money.

I will mostly use it for traveling and not at a regular basis. So quite a lot it will not be used at all. That's the reason for disposables batteries. I will bring it during a one month traveling in July, including 2 weeks hiking. But if everything goes as planned I only need the light for backup.
For lights I use regularly I prefer rechargeable batteries.

 

[indigon]

respectfully disagree

Preflashes are just a normal part of my Zebra experience. Long Hold from Off in my G6 program, produces a preflash of my 1C (level 6), then MHL. If I use 2 Clic from Off, it also preflashes my 1C output.

this is my SC64 setup:

View attachment 79283
I mostly use G6 mode group: levels 6, 9, 11 for EDC
I preset 1 Clic to level 1 when I set the light on my nightstand

From (Off) Press-Hold should scroll from your lowest - > next lowest - > highest active sections. So if 6 is your lowest active section that will hit first. That (6) is kind of higher than average lowest setting, so maybe that's what you're seeing as a pre-flash? I've been unable to get mine to pre-flash at all. Maybe yours just has a pre-flash personality..

 

[indigon]

I will mostly use it for traveling and not at a regular basis. So quite a lot it will not be used at all. That's the reason for disposables batteries. I will bring it during a one month traveling in July, including 2 weeks hiking. But if everything goes as planned I only need the light for backup.
For lights I use regularly I prefer rechargeable batteries.

The Eneloop's have excellent shelf life charged. So rather than chucking drained alkalines or lithium batteries into the woods (kidding), wouldn't packing one or two 4-packs of charged AA Eneloop's make more sense? They travel well and are not very heavy.

 

[jon_slider]

Press-Hold scrolls from your lowest - > next lowest - > highest active sections.

thank you for the brainstorming

I see the scrolling order as: Hold, Double Clic, Single Clic
with a preflash if scrolling starts from Off.
Im used to that preflash behavior now.

On my G6:
Scrolling starts from my Medium output, because it is set to my Hold command. Im used to it, it is predictable, and not a problem.

confirmation test to show scrolling starts on Medium:
(test from On, to bypass the preflash)

From On at my High output, Long Hold goes directly to Medium (not Low).

 

[indigon]

thank you for the brainstorming
ime, the scrolling order is Hold, Double Clic, Single Clic

On my G6
Medium output is programmed to my Hold command.
Scrolling starts from my Medium output,

confirmation test:
From On at my High output, Long Hold, goes to Medium (not Low).

My SC65c light is programmed very similar to yours from what I've read.

From (Off), Press-Hold the light should go to L-M-H rotation regardless of the group you're in. No pre-flash on my SC65c from off, just L-M-H.

I thought that applied to from (On) also but it's slightly different.

Agree when (On) the scrolling order is Long-Press, Double Click, Single Click.
From (On) Press-Hold should be interpreted by the light as a Long-Press initially and start at that setting first.

If your light is (On) in the Long-Press setting when you Press-Hold you should notice a slight pause, since the light is essentially restarting a rotation from the Long-Press setting that you are already in.

Anyway, that's my mental-midget interpretation so far, until you convince me otherwise .. :)

1-Click * Long Press * 2-Clicks
3(0.3 lm) .. 5 (4 lm) ...11(430 lm)
4(1.5 lm) .. 6(13 lm) ..11(430 lm)

 

[jon_slider]

Agree when (On) the scrolling order is Long-Press, Double Click, Single Click.

thaks for confirming

From (Off), Press-Hold the light should go to L-M-H rotation regardless of the group you're in.

althought I agree that it does look that way

the Low preflash comes before the scroll starts, it is just a preflash, It is not selectable as the first mode in the scroll. The light just preflashes on the way to the output programmed into the Hold command.

If your light is (On) in the Long-Press setting when you Press-Hold you should notice a slight pause, since the light is essentially restarting a rotation from the Long-Press setting that you are already in.

agree completely about the slight pause when repeating an output

thanks for the deep dive into the Zebra UI

its very entertaining for me, while Im waiting for a package with a 2023 SC53c N Zebra to arrive.

I also thank you for introducing me to the idea of numbering the modes 1-12.. that has really helped me organize my spreadsheet to get a grip on my various program groups

 

[indigon]

thanks for the deep dive into the Zebra UI

its very entertaining for me, while Im waiting for a package with a 2023 SC53c N Zebra to arrive.

I also thank you for introducing me to the idea of numbering the modes 1-12.. that has really helped me organize my spreadsheet to get a grip on my various program groups

Hopefully you get a SC53c N that's Li-Ion compatible..

Actually the 1-12 table was borrowed from you, it's the only way I can keep the light programming straight. The L1-4 thru H1-4 gives me a headache..

 

[this_is_nascar]

The Eneloop's have excellent shelf life charged. So rather than chucking drained alkalines or lithium batteries into the woods (kidding), wouldn't packing one or two 4-packs of charged AA Eneloop's make more sense? They travel well and are not very heavy.

Stop pushing your "save the environment" agenda. You're making it too obvious. You have no idea what environment he is storing that light or why he'd may want to use lithiums. They certainly have their place.

 

[jon_slider]

I weighed some batteries, 14500 w USB, AA Eneloop, AA Ultimate Lithium:

When stored in hot weather, I think Eneloop have better charge retention than LiIon. So for a light stored in my car emergency kit, I choose Eneloop, and Lithium primary for backup.

If I have a light that can use either LiIon or Eneloop, I prefer the lower weight of LiIon, and the convenience of USB charging.

otoh, specific to my H53Fc N, based on Opple 3 Flicker Index testing, the driver operates on Constant Current on Eneloop, while it uses Pulsed Power to some of the modes if using LiIon

my G6 outputs levels
1C: 3, 5,
Hold: 7, 9,
2C: 10, 12

Eneloop vs LiIon:

 

[indigon]

I weighed some batteries, 14500 w USB, AA Eneloop, AA Ultimate Lithium:

When stored in hot weather, I think Eneloop have better charge retention than LiIon. So for a light stored in my car emergency kit, I choose Eneloop, and Lithium primary for backup.

If I have a light that can use either LiIon or Eneloop, I prefer the lower weight of LiIon, and the convenience of USB charging.

Interesting 5min Video of someone taking apart an AA Lithium battery and throwing it in water:

 

[dc38]

Great Video of someone taking apart a Lithium battery and throwing it in water:

As far as I'm aware, there is NO standard class (ABC) of fire extinguisher that will put out lithium fires...need sand for that.