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As much as I don’t care for Chinese lights. Anduril is very easy and simple to use, I do enjoy it. Yes it has a ton of features that the normal person would never use but it’s super easy. You’ll like the D3AA, it’s a nice light. He just released a 2 channel version so I been debating on getting one with one led with 1800k and the other two in 4200k. Perfect tint for night time and daytime use in one light
I'm willing to give it another shot. I think my biggest issue is I don't really crave a lot of the features (I like simple lights, thus Malkoff love).
The last Anduril I tried had a gross button, and I HATED that I invested a bunch of time to set it up, but if things went goofy, I'd have to reset it, and do the whole process, again.

I'm interested in the efficiency, and got it mostly as an overt toy. I don't think Anduril is appropriate for serious use lights, but as something to mess around with and/or use casually, I'll give it a shot. It seems like it might make for a fun toy to waste some time with, just changing settings. But, I also kind of hate the whole clicking and counting thing, so it might end up being gifted away to a young family member at Christmas, haha.

If I don't dislike it, I might try the headlamp with the same driver. I do like Hank's warmer in-house emitters (both 1800K and 2700K), and those seem like they'd make nice headlamps.


Well, sold all my HDS and everyone said try Malkoff so I jumped in. Very nice indeed! Beautiful beams and built like tanks.
Kosen VME 2AA M31WLL 2700k
Kosen MDC V3 EZP HCRI-27

I’m a warm tint guy…… Amber to 2700k

View attachment 95377
The weird/fun one is if that's the 14500/AA body on the EZ, you can put the VME with the M31WLL on it, run a single Eneloop, and it's about near as bright.

I also JUST got the 2AA body, and man...It's so good. Feels amazing in the hand!
 
Oh yeah, I don't know if there's a policy against 3D printed stuff or something, but if not, I wanted to try one of those glow rings from Kosen, so I asked my brother to 3D print this. He said he had to size it up to 107%, and it works perfect.


So, if the bezel tool is out of stock, or you can't stomach $25+ dollars, or you just want something small to use, if you size this up, I can give it two thumbs up.

UNFORTUNATELY, I forgot physics, and I got an orange glow ring to make my 1800K FFL MDC AA...and it essentially reflects 100% of the light from the emitter, so that MDC AA does not actually charge the glow ring, hahaha. My 5000K FFL does, though.
And, I got the one made for use with the TIR optics, so I can only use it between my two FFL MDC AA's.

Oh, well, haha.
 
I'm willing to give it another shot. I think my biggest issue is I don't really crave a lot of the features (I like simple lights, thus Malkoff love).
The last Anduril I tried had a gross button, and I HATED that I invested a bunch of time to set it up, but if things went goofy, I'd have to reset it, and do the whole process, again.

I'm interested in the efficiency, and got it mostly as an overt toy. I don't think Anduril is appropriate for serious use lights, but as something to mess around with and/or use casually, I'll give it a shot. It seems like it might make for a fun toy to waste some time with, just changing settings. But, I also kind of hate the whole clicking and counting thing, so it might end up being gifted away to a young family member at Christmas, haha.

If I don't dislike it, I might try the headlamp with the same driver. I do like Hank's warmer in-house emitters (both 1800K and 2700K), and those seem like they'd make nice headlamps.



The weird/fun one is if that's the 14500/AA body on the EZ, you can put the VME with the M31WLL on it, run a single Eneloop, and it's about near as bright.

I also JUST got the 2AA body, and man...It's so good. Feels amazing in the hand!
It is the 14500 - thanks for the info!

The 2AA body fills the hand nicely….. now if their was a crenelated bezel it would be perfect.
 
It is the 14500 - thanks for the info!

The 2AA body fills the hand nicely….. now if their was a crenelated bezel it would be perfect.
Just be careful to not put it on the 14500 body WITH a 14500, or you'll fry the M31WLL.
I specifically don't have any 14500 MDC's so I won't accidentally fry them that way, haha.

If you get adventurous, the MD3 body (with o-rings or a sleeve) will run a 2xAA setup, too. With a tricap, that is my CHUNKYBOI setup of choice! I still need to see if the M31WLL will work with a high/low ring, now that I mention this, haha.
 
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I still need to see if the M31WLL will work with a high/low ring, now that I mention this, haha.
I’ve run the MDX high/low ring with the M31WLL using 2xAA Eneloop, a 3v lithium primary, and a 3v li-ion USB-C rechargeable. However, once the voltage starts to drop on the 2xAA Eneloop and 3v primary setups, low output can only be accessible by starting on high then twisting to low. I’ve really liked using the USB-C rechargeable as I think protection circuit maintains 3v throughout the charge.
IMG_0978.jpeg


Here is a side by side of my MD2 on low next to a MDC AA 519a 3500k on lowlow.

IMG_0968.jpeg


..and here is a picture of my M31WLL in it’s final form with the older-style Malkoff knurling which I prefer (ESPECIALLY paired with the warmer 2700k!) sitting next to my SS Peak 17500 (219b sw35 for anyone curious). One for day and one for night.

IMG_1009.jpeg
 
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As much as I don’t care for Chinese lights. Anduril is very easy and simple to use, I do enjoy it. Yes it has a ton of features that the normal person would never use but it’s super easy.

No surprise to most here, but I'll disagree with you about Anduril

There is nothing "easy and simple" about it

Your CPF "handle" is ilikeguns, and if you're using an Anduril flashlight, with firearms, well....................... 😉

Anduril has NO PLACE in a working/serious flashlight

Tap here, Tap there, everyone Tap, no one Tap, Tap while doing a rain dance around the campfire, here a Tap, there a Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap...........

The world would be a boring place if we all liked the same things, HOWEVER, Anduril IS the work of the devil, and should NEVER be used, with the exception for hobbyists, white wall hunters, and those that use their flashlights as toys...................... 😁

In case you missed it, IMHO, Anduril has NO place, in serious flashlights

If your flashlight requires the use of a "flowchart" (see below), it IS a TOY!

Thanks, I NEEDED to get that off my chest, please continue on with your discussion...............

😁😁😁😁

Wurkkos TS10 - Anduril 2 UI.01.jpg
 
Just accidentally stumbled across an old sales thread. There was an M61LL XML T6!
I knew there were some XML M61s. Didn’t realise they made a low low version.
Apparently they made only about 20 for an expedition.
I recon an M61LL with an XPL would be nice. Probably have a nice wide hotspot. But that’s just me thinking out loud…
 
If your flashlight requires the use of a "flowchart" (see below), it IS a TOY!
I'm glad I've never been required to use a flowchart to use any of my Anduril lights. They have a fairly intuitive, and widely copied, interface. Hold from off for low. Press from off for a normal amount of light. Double-click from on or off for a lot of light. Press from on to turn it off. Pretty normal stuff.
 
I'm interested in the efficiency, and got it mostly as an overt toy. I don't think Anduril is appropriate for serious use lights
I'm curious what "serious" means to you in regards to flashlights? Especially as efficiency doesn't seem to be either relevant or at least enough on its own? I would consider a light that gets me the most lumen-hours during a power outage or other such emergency to be a fairly serious product. Is plumbing, automotive, or electrical work "serious"? Or does it have to be life-or-death? And if the latter, is any multi-mode light "serious"?
 
Oh yeah, I don't know if there's a policy against 3D printed stuff or something, but if not, I wanted to try one of those glow rings from Kosen, so I asked my brother to 3D print this. He said he had to size it up to 107%, and it works perfect.


So, if the bezel tool is out of stock, or you can't stomach $25+ dollars, or you just want something small to use, if you size this up, I can give it two thumbs up.

UNFORTUNATELY, I forgot physics, and I got an orange glow ring to make my 1800K FFL MDC AA...and it essentially reflects 100% of the light from the emitter, so that MDC AA does not actually charge the glow ring, hahaha. My 5000K FFL does, though.
And, I got the one made for use with the TIR optics, so I can only use it between my two FFL MDC AA's.

Oh, well, haha.
Well that's kind of cool. I like it!
 
No surprise to most here, but I'll disagree with you about Anduril

There is nothing "easy and simple" about it

Your CPF "handle" is ilikeguns, and if you're using an Anduril flashlight, with firearms, well....................... 😉

Anduril has NO PLACE in a working/serious flashlight

Tap here, Tap there, everyone Tap, no one Tap, Tap while doing a rain dance around the campfire, here a Tap, there a Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap...........

The world would be a boring place if we all liked the same things, HOWEVER, Anduril IS the work of the devil, and should NEVER be used, with the exception for hobbyists, white wall hunters, and those that use their flashlights as toys...................... 😁

In case you missed it, IMHO, Anduril has NO place, in serious flashlights

If your flashlight requires the use of a "flowchart" (see below), it IS a TOY!

Thanks, I NEEDED to get that off my chest, please continue on with your discussion...............

😁😁😁😁

View attachment 95386
lol I currently don’t own any anduril lights and if and when I do they are used as so called toys only. I’d never use any Chinese or light with anduril with firearms. All my rifles or handguns have Surefires mounted to them

McGizmo HIVE driver is by far way more of a pain in the *** than anduril.

Also you don’t need to use all those features on anduril. It’s a really simple setup. Don’t even need to look at any charts. You can figure it out within a few seconds just by messing with it, the basic stock setup is what I’m referring to.
 
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I'm curious what "serious" means to you in regards to flashlights? Especially as efficiency doesn't seem to be either relevant or at least enough on its own? I would consider a light that gets me the most lumen-hours during a power outage or other such emergency to be a fairly serious product. Is plumbing, automotive, or electrical work "serious"? Or does it have to be life-or-death? And if the latter, is any multi-mode light "serious"?

Gee, I don't know..........

As a retired Career Paramedic, Firefighter, Tactical Medic, Flight Paramedic, etc., etc., etc., ANY flashlight that requires thought process, to make a decision, between MULTIPLE taps, to get to what/where you need, is NOT a serious flashlight.

Anything that requires more than 2 presses/taps to get what I'm looking for, is a TOY, NOT a serious flashlight

Also, when carrying a firearm, I wany ONE level, with ONE press...... PERIOD............

So yes, perhaps my use is different than the vast majority of folks here

I see you're new here, this has been well discussed here in the past, and I mention it whenever I come across it

Listen, I get it, MOST here are hobbyists, who like to play with their flashlights, white wall hunt, and shine their flashlights into fans, to create PWM, HOWEVER, that is NOT serious use of a flashlight
 
I'm glad I've never been required to use a flowchart to use any of my Anduril lights. They have a fairly intuitive, and widely copied, interface. Hold from off for low. Press from off for a normal amount of light. Double-click from on or off for a lot of light. Press from on to turn it off. Pretty normal stuff.
Perhaps it is "normal stuff" to you, new guy...........

But TRUST me, it is NOT normal for/to me, nor for us First Responders (especially those of us that worked straight night works, as I did for 35+ years)

But yes, I'm glad Anduril is available to those of you that wish to use it, HOWEVER, do NOT ever equate it with anything other than a TOY
 
I'm curious what "serious" means to you in regards to flashlights? Especially as efficiency doesn't seem to be either relevant or at least enough on its own? I would consider a light that gets me the most lumen-hours during a power outage or other such emergency to be a fairly serious product. Is plumbing, automotive, or electrical work "serious"? Or does it have to be life-or-death? And if the latter, is any multi-mode light "serious"?
I'd say I mean it more literally. If I have something serious to do, I wouldn't take an Anduril light. Walking around the house? Looking at things for fun? Sure.

Investigating an unknown noise? Dealing with something broken? Using it with a firearm? Using it if I hear people outside? Nope.

And yes, multi-mode lights aren't really serious lights. When the poop hits the fan, you simply won't have the bandwidth to deal with a UI. Caveman brain want light. Caveman finger hit button. Caveman get light. I always love how the Reddit types will insist that, in a real dire situation, they'll remember their multi-tap modes to do exactly what they need to. You can tell they've never been punched in the face, because, as Mike Tyson said, EVERYONE has a plan until they get punched in the face.


For emergencies, I just have a few dozen Eneloops, and lanterns or multi-AA lights that run for ages (the Eagtc SX30A4 does 180 hours on low, which is 14 lumens). Grab a reliable light, and use that to get the others set up. Once I have a lantern set up, and got things together, maybe I'd bust out the D3AA and fiddle with it to pass time. Run time just isn't a huge concern for me, because I have DOZENS of Eneloops, and most of my lights are AA or AAA. I easily have YEARS worth of light if needed. Quantity creates its own quality. I just don't know why I'd be in some dire situation and only have one light and one battery that I need a sublumen output with for 3 days. If I was expecting to get trapped in a cave, maybe I'd bring a light for that scenario. And, if I was worried about being trapped in a cave with only one light and one battery, I'm not sure a random Chinese light would be my go-to. Lumens Factory has been my most reliable Chinese stuff, no surprise.


My biggest issue with Anduril is that it's for people who want a hobby in configuring a UI. It tends to be popular with the "techie" crowd, because configuring their Internet-of-Things "Smart" house is their hobby. So, they LOVE Anduril. Sitting down, and spending two hours setting it up to their exact preferences? SHEER JOY!

Me? I mean, I keep a budget spreadsheet, but I rectify it at the end of the month, at once. I find no real joy in the actual administration.

I find much more joy LEGOing in the P60 ecosystem. I prefer physical tinkering to abstract.


Well that's kind of cool. I like it!
Yeah, I like how thin it is. It's like a stack of like 8 quarters, and the "gears" give it good purchase. I gave my brother my bezel, and he adjusted the sizing, and said 107% fit perfect, which it did.

He made me a few to try. I don't do 3D printing, but I know there's a more rigid, expensive plastic, and then he has a softer, wood-based one. I started with the softer one, and it removed the stock bezel just fine, and has only minimal damage. I could probably use it about half a dozen times.

He calculated the cost, and it came out to about a penny with the cheaper plastic (obviously, excluding the cost of the machine). For a tool I will probably only use once, ever, I am happy. Though, now I guess I have an excuse to try other MDC bezels, haha.
Meanwhile, my MDX wrench head was still worth every penny, hahah.
 

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