Convoy flashlight opinions?

[Jean-Luc Descarte]

What flashaholic has a collection without an S2+?

Got this one to test a few things: metal switch (feels nice), buck driver (a lot less hot than a comparable linear) and the desert tan anodizing (good, feels more solid than the bright colored ones like red or orange).

A shot of the emitter (519A 5700K):

I already had another good light with this exact emitter, but it has a linear driver, and I wanted a slightly more compact package for pocket EDC – the S21A is nice on the hand but it bulges a bit when stashed by the wallet and takes some finagling to fit inside the coin pocket; the S2+ is only slightly smaller, but just enough that it has neither of those issues.

(Don't mind the Pentels, I had to prop it up so it wouldn't roll off lmao)

In the same order I also got an S15 host that I'm gonna put together with a B35AM 4500K I have as spare.

 

[PaladinNO]

What flashaholic has a collection without an S2+?

Got this one to test a few things: metal switch (feels nice), buck driver (a lot less hot than a comparable linear) and the desert tan anodizing (good, feels more solid than the bright colored ones like red or orange).

A shot of the emitter (519A 5700K):

I already had another good light with this exact emitter, but it has a linear driver, and I wanted a slightly more compact package for pocket EDC – the S21A is nice on the hand but it bulges a bit when stashed by the wallet and takes some finagling to fit inside the coin pocket; the S2+ is only slightly smaller, but just enough that it has neither of those issues.

Ah, I am feeling a bit conflicted about my own red S2+. I am definitely a flashaholic, but arguably not a collector (I only got 2 pure "collectible" lights, an Emisar D4K Copper, and a 2024 Christmas Wurkkos TS10).

I got one S2+, an old model - I still don't know what everything means, like "T4-7A", but the specs are:
"7135 x 3 (XML2 T4-7A, 3000 Kelvin, 490 Lumen)". With a metal button, which I really like the feel of.

I have considered getting rid of it (and my grey Jaxman E2, 219B, 5700K, 370 Lumen), as pretty much everything about it is horrible (CRI, tint, beam pattern, output power - only good thing is the 3000K temperature). But it does hold a certain sentimental value, as it was my first ever (with the Jaxman as the second) "custom" light.

Thing is, I don't use either of them, ever. They don't offer anything I don't already have a better light for. And I don't consider them special enough to place as collectibles.

So what should I do with them? Any thoughts / opinions?
I am also slowly moving away from 18650, to go full 21700 (and I am looking at the S21A), with the exception of specialty lights, such as IR and UV-lights.

 

[Jean-Luc Descarte]

Ah, I am feeling a bit conflicted about my own red S2+. I am definitely a flashaholic, but arguably not a collector (I only got 2 pure "collectible" lights, an Emisar D4K Copper, and a 2024 Christmas Wurkkos TS10).

I got one S2+, an old model - I still don't know what everything means, like "T4-7A", but the specs are:
"7135 x 3 (XML2 T4-7A, 3000 Kelvin, 490 Lumen)". With a metal button, which I really like the feel of.

I have considered getting rid of it (and my grey Jaxman E2, 219B, 5700K, 370 Lumen), as pretty much everything about it is horrible (CRI, tint, beam pattern, output power - only good thing is the 3000K temperature). But it does hold a certain sentimental value, as it was my first ever (with the Jaxman as the second) "custom" light.

Thing is, I don't use either of them, ever. They don't offer anything I don't already have a better light for. And I don't consider them special enough to place as collectibles.

So what should I do with them? Any thoughts / opinions?
I am also slowly moving away from 18650, to go full 21700 (and I am looking at the S21A), with the exception of specialty lights, such as IR and UV-lights.

I'm not going by the radical meaning of "collection" here, to be fair. I buy every single one of my lights with the intention of using them. I don't believe in shelf queens by design. Heck, I don't even own a titanium light because it doesn't offer me anything that cheaper stainless steel or silver aluminium (transparent anodizing) also doesn't and for cheaper.

T4-7A is the bin of the XM-L2 in that old S2+. Emitter bin used to be a lot more relevant in the past decade (when Convoy was starting out), back when LEDs were less consistent in quality. Our good friend @jon_slider has a lot of posts that can tell you all about bins and their relation to tint and the BBL.
And 7135 x 3 means it has a linear driver with PWM for output modulation, and three 7135 chips to provide current. Each 7135 draws 350mA, so three of them would be about 1.05A at full blast.

Since you asked: instead of binning them, why not upgrade them? It's what I did with a pretty old S2+ I had: it had a 7135x4 driver and an SST20 2700K that I liked at first, but over time when I started to amass more warm white lights, it became more and more obvious over time that it had WAY more positive duv than should be acceptable. So I modernized it with a B35AM and a correspondent Convoy 2.2A boost driver. Even if the super-cool-yet-high-CRI beam wasn't a factor, I get a kick out of using a torch with an outer shell beat up to hell and back with a modern light engine inside, like an old dog that learned new tricks.

If you liked the S2+'s form factor, you're absolutely gonna enjoy the S21A - I know I do. They are incredibly similar in size and weight, but the S21A feels heftier and sturdier, likely because the button flaps are so much thicker. Just be sure to buy yours with a buck driver rather than linear if your pick of LED is 3v, because the S21A really doesn't deal with heat buildup any better than the S2+.

 

[Schokokeks]

Since you asked: instead of binning them, why not upgrade them?

And Simon makes this REALLY easy. You can buy the LED already on a board, and then just swap it in. I don't have an S2, but I think it's MAYBE just a bit of soldering?

 

[PaladinNO]

I'm not going by the radical meaning of "collection" here, to be fair. I buy every single one of my lights with the intention of using them. I don't believe in shelf queens by design. Heck, I don't even own a titanium light because it doesn't offer me anything that cheaper stainless steel or silver aluminium (transparent anodizing) also doesn't and for cheaper.

T4-7A is the bin of the XM-L2 in that old S2+. Emitter bin used to be a lot more relevant in the past decade (when Convoy was starting out), back when LEDs were less consistent in quality. And 7135 x 3 means it has a linear driver with PWM for output modulation, and three 7135 chips to provide current. Each 7135 draws 350mA, so three of them would be about 1.05A at full blast.

Since you asked: instead of binning them, why not upgrade them?

If you liked the S2+'s form factor, you're absolutely gonna enjoy the S21A - I know I do. They are incredibly similar in size and weight, but the S21A feels heftier and sturdier, likely because the button flaps are so much thicker. Just be sure to buy yours with a buck driver rather than linear if your pick of LED is 3v, because the S21A really doesn't deal with heat buildup any better than the S2+.

Sorry, I took "collection" quite literally - to me, a "collection of flashlights" is precisely that. Shelf queens, all of them. I consider myself having "many flashlights", or "a selection". :)
I too buy flashlights to use them, mostly for specific tasks. Then there's the all-rounders and simply backup lights - which I also need to have together with the primary light, and so I end up with 70+ lights spread around the house. ^^

I do have a Titanium light (2 of them, actually - and I recently sold the 3rd (Convoy T3)). There's my Emisar D4K Ti Colourful, E21A 3500K + 4500K mule (my "midlife crisis" light, for close-up precision work), and a another D4K Ti, 519A 2700K + 4500K ("steak light", primarily for seeing Red hues during cooking) that I currently EDC. Do Titanium lights do anything in real life that aluminium does not? Probably not. For me, it is the colour aesthetic of raw Titanium that I like a lot. <3

Thank you very much for the details on my S2+. I have put what I could fit in the comment cell in my Flashlights Excel document. I suspected it had PWM, because my very sensitive eyes notice the flickering on the lower output levels. I won't upgrade it - for the price, I would rather just buy another. But I won't throw it away either. And it now sits with the battery removed as my 3rd collectors flashlight, together with the D4K Copper and TS10 on top of my computer case.

I pretty much already know I will like the S21A, as my only gripe with the S2+ (and 18650 lights in general) is that I wish it was a little thicker in the hand.
As for specifications, "the S21A" part contained a link to the exact light I would get. B35AM, 4000K, 12 groups. As I understand it, all the 12 groups-lights has a buck driver. Several others here have already said "just get the buck driver" whenever buying a Convoy light, so that's what I will get. ^^

Lovely colour on your S2+ btw. I recently purchased a M21C in Tan for a good friend of mine, and he absolutely loved that colour too. Also got him a T4 in Blue, and a second T4 in Orange. I will say Convoy got really good colours in general.

 

[Jean-Luc Descarte]

Sorry, I took "collection" quite literally - to me, a "collection of flashlights" is precisely that. Shelf queens, all of them. I consider myself having "many flashlights", or "a selection". :)
I too buy flashlights to use them, mostly for specific tasks. Then there's the all-rounders and simply backup lights - which I also need to have together with the primary light, and so I end up with 70+ lights spread around the house. ^^

I do have a Titanium light (2 of them, actually - and I recently sold the 3rd (Convoy T3)). There's my Emisar D4K Ti Colourful, E21A 3500K + 4500K mule (my "midlife crisis" light, for close-up precision work), and a another D4K Ti, 519A 2700K + 4500K ("steak light", primarily for seeing Red hues during cooking) that I currently EDC. Do Titanium lights do anything in real life that aluminium does not? Probably not. For me, it is the colour aesthetic of raw Titanium that I like a lot. <3

Thank you very much for the details on my S2+. I have put what I could fit in the comment cell in my Flashlights Excel document. I suspected it had PWM, because my very sensitive eyes notice the flickering on the lower output levels. I won't upgrade it - for the price, I would rather just buy another. But I won't throw it away either. And it it now sits with the battery removed as my 3rd collectors flashlight, together with the D4K Copper and TS10 on top of my computer case.

I pretty much already know I will like the S21A, as my only gripe with the S2+ (and 18650 lights in general) is that I wish it was a little thicker in the hand.
As for specifications, "the S21A" part contained a link to the exact light I would get. B35AM, 4000K, 12 groups. As I understand it, all the 12 groups-lights has a buck driver. Several others here have already said "just get the buck driver" whenever buying a Convoy light, so that's what I will get. ^^

Lovely colour on your S2+ btw. I recently purchased a M21C in Tan for a good friend of mine, and he absolutely loved that colour too. Also got him a T4 in Blue, and a second T4 in Orange. I will say Convoy got really good colours in general.

Yeah, I know how a buildup can be. Looking to my left from my desk I can already see 15+ lights of different form factors, emitters, CCTs and beam patterns just on top of my file cabinet.

Older 7135-based drivers from Convoy did indeed use PWM, but at the same time Convoy was a gold standard example of what good PWM is actually like: extremely high frequency undetectable to the eye of regular users. You said yours was a Jaxman, right? I don't know if there's a difference in drivers, in that case.

No, not every 12 group driver is buck.
- For 3v emitters (519A, SFT40, XHP50.2, LHP531, etc) the driver can be either linear or buck. Linear reaches higher highs but heats up faster, and also has lower lows. Buck is more efficient and less hot, but also less bright highs and less dim lows. I messaged Simon a few days ago and he said the difference in efficiency between linear and buck is like comparing 90% and 95%, so take that as a sign that it depends on preference. I prefer the lower heat and better runtime, so I'll stick with buck but not buy any buck drivers to swap out my linear ones
- For 6v+ emitters (B35AM, 719A, SFT70, FC40, etc.) — as is your case — the driver is boost only. The B35AM works very similar to a 519A in brightness and tint, but with better runtimes. Just make sure to not use it on 100% power for too long, some batches of the LED can still burn out despite the restrained max current in Simon's custom drive.

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EDIT (because I hit "post" before finishing the writeup):
And oh yes, Convoy has great colors. Black, grey, silver, orange, red and now tan, there hasn't been a colour of Convoy host I've been disappointed in. I have a teal green T7 in the mail and doubt it'll move the needle of my opinion any.
MAO is an interesting case: at the expense of mechanical lockout, you get a much grippier "chalky" surface that makes the light easy to hold. I really enjoy it in the S21A and M21B I own, but the lack of lockout made me get rid of an S21E.

I'm surprised the S21A doesn't come in this tan color. Missed opportunity. The S21E in tan is a proper beauty just like the S2+, especially with the shiny steel bezel.

 

[PaladinNO]

Yeah, I know how a buildup can be. Looking to my left from my desk I can already see 15+ lights of different form factors, emitters, CCTs and beam patterns just on top of my file cabinet.

Older 7135-based drivers from Convoy did indeed use PWM, but at the same time Convoy was a gold standard example of what good PWM is actually like: extremely high frequency undetectable to the eye of regular users. You said yours was a Jaxman, right? I don't know if there's a difference in drivers, in that case.

No, not every 12 group driver is buck.

- For 6v+ emitters (B35AM, 719A, SFT70, FC40, etc.) — as is your case — the driver is boost only. The B35AM works very similar to a 519A in brightness and tint, but with better runtimes. Just make sure to not use it on 100% power for too long, some batches of the LED can still burn out despite the restrained max current in Simon's custom drive.

MAO is an interesting case: at the expense of mechanical lockout, you get a much grippier "chalky" surface that makes the light easy to hold. I really enjoy it in the S21A and M21B I own, but the lack of lockout made me get rid of an S21E.
The S21E in tan is a proper beauty just like the S2+, especially with the shiny steel bezel.

"Something for everything, within reach" - I know that one. :)
I can count 6 lights from my desk. Fenix TK45, Fenix LR35R, Sofirn Q8+, Emisar D4K mule and the Jaxman E2. Plus a Convoy C8 IR (in Tan).
Or put differently: Backup, high power, lantern, close-up, "I just need a light!". And the specialty IR (the 850 nm IR is supposedly helping the body repair tendon and muscle damage).

I don't know why I bought the Jaxman (from eBay), but it was my second "custom" light (sales page had drop-down menus). But a Convoy S2+ was my first, the one with the 7135 PWM. The Jaxman E2 has a 219B, 5700K. I probably got it to try different CCTs (not that I knew what "CCT" was back then), compared to the S2+ 3000K.

Almost ironic that I have settled on almost the exact middle ground (4000K) as my preference. ^^

The S21E - or S21A, I haven't quite decided whether I would want the switch yet - or, rather, the B35AM emitter is a weird one to me. I really like the CRI and tint of the Nichia E21A emitter, and I read that the B35AM is basically 4x E21A glued together to one large die. I have seen others compare the B35AM to the 519A.

To me, the 519A is the superiour overall choice, but I would argue the E21A is better at colour rendering. Hank over at Emisar has many E21A options, and the E21A 3500K + 4500K mix is my absolute favourite in terms of CCT and CRI. When I once had to differentiate between a Blue, Black, Grey and Dark Brown wire in a shadowy nook (old computer case), the E21A 4000K (or it could have been a FireFlies PL47MU E21A 3800K I used at the time) mix made it easier compared to anything else I tried.

The output isn't that important to me, as I value runtime over max power. And I keep seeing the B35AM as a very good "jack of all trades"-emitter. I haven't tried it, but knowing the E21A and 519A in different CCTs, I want to try it. Plan is to replace / upgrade my Wurkkos FC11C 519A 4000K EDC - which is a 18650 light - with a similar 21700 light. Also, when I use a light, I almost always hold it in my hand, so I will know when it start getting hot. And when I feel the need for gloves to hold a flashlight, I should have dimmed it down long ago. So the driver doesn't matter that much to me, unless I got several options when ordering (in that case, it's buck).

This is why I like big lights so much, with multiple cells, like the Convoy 3X21E. Maybe it can do the claimed 12000 Lumen (I don't have anything to measure with), but I am perfectly happy leaving it at, I dunno, 5000 Lumen. And have plenty of runtime with the 3x Molicel P50B 21700 cells I added with the purchase.

EDIT:
999 posts - will my "title" change at 1000? ^^

 

[PaladinNO]

Does anyone know the binning of the SFT-40 that Simon uses?
I am looking at a Convoy M21H, 3000K, but I wonder whether the chip he has is the same as this:

LED test / review - Luminus SFT-40 3000/6500 K - warm white thrower LED with good tint and perfect light

LED Test / review EN Luminus Specialty White SFT-40 2023-10-24 The Luminus SFT-40 has been on the market for some time now. Available only in cool white light color at launch, a warm white variant with high color rendering was also available for a short time, which indeed makes this...

budgetlightforum.com

I feel I am getting a bit too obsessed with the R9 CRI...

 

[Buff]

Wurkkos then discovered Convoy and got these because you could customize them. I have a green, an orange and a 2700 that are really nice changes from the 6700k lights i usually used.
This all before i even owned one Olight.
Now i own too many Olights? Over a dozen but not like some who own 100’s or 1000’s??Like any lights they all get used or gifted.
Acebeam, Manker and some Maratac round out what i guess you would call a collection. Several of my lights were bought out of pure curiosity and all were bought on sale lol.
That’s how it starts and how they get you hooked.

 

[PaladinNO]

Is it difficult to replace a reflector?

I want to buy a Convoy L21A (or other thrower) with either the LHP73B or 519A, 1800K, with a smooth reflector. Simon only offer the orange peel for both of those emitters in any of his lights.

I am sending him an email right now, but if he won't help me (I know he doesn't do customization, but if he got everything in stock...), I would like to try it myself, if I can.
But if it requires soldering, it won't happen, as I don't have the tools.

 

[AMD64Brunette]

If the USPS tracking is to be beloved.. I should be getting my Convoy T4 tomorrow.

Talk about a Christmas present...

 

[PaladinNO]

If the USPS tracking is to be beloved.. I should be getting my Convoy T4 tomorrow.

Talk about a Christmas present...

Best of luck to you!

I got something as a Christmas present for my mother coming - and the Norwegian Mail tracking does say later today.
Already got something else on the way for her, ordered long ago, but that delivery date has been postponed 3 times now, with the current estimate in February...

 

[Jean-Luc Descarte]

Is it difficult to replace a reflector?

I want to buy a Convoy L21A (or other thrower) with either the LHP73B or 519A, 1800K, with a smooth reflector. Simon only offer the orange peel for both of those emitters in any of his lights.

I am sending him an email right now, but if he won't help me (I know he doesn't do customization, but if he got everything in stock...), I would like to try it myself, if I can.
But if it requires soldering, it won't happen, as I don't have the tools.

Nope, it's extremely easy on all models. Unscrew the bezel, remove the lens, replace the reflector, put lens and bezel back and Bob's your uncle.

 

[PaladinNO]

Nope, it's extremely easy on all models. Unscrew the bezel, remove the lens, replace the reflector, put lens and bezel back and Bob's your uncle.

Thank you for the confirmation. Received a reply from Simon too, and he told me he could do it for me.

 

[AMD64Brunette]

Convoy S21E (4000K Nichia 519) in orange just arrived.

 

[orbital]

Convoy S21E (4000K Nichia 519) in orange just arrived.

+

My White MOA S21E arrived on Friday...got the LHP531 emitter in 3000K < 10 degree optic.
Been ceiling bounce lighting since then, really dig it.

Wasn't certain if that emitter would play nice with that optic (thought maybe the emitter would be slightly too big),
actually works super, no doughnut hole

Crazy small for being a 21700 light ,,
thinking buying a MLOK weaponlight mount and getting a S21E in 5000K for it,, same optic

 

[Jean-Luc Descarte]

+

My White MOA S21E arrived on Friday...got the LHP531 emitter in 3000K < 10 degree optic.
Been ceiling bounce lighting since then, really dig it.

Wasn't certain if that emitter would play nice with that optic (thought maybe the emitter would be slightly too big),
actually works super, no doughnut hole

Crazy small for being a 21700 light ,,
thinking buying a MLOK weaponlight mount and getting a S21E in 5000K for it,, same optic

If you do, tell us if it's holding up.

Personally I'd use an S21A, B or G for that. Same optic/reflector size as the S21E, but no e-switch and sturdier springs, so should in theory be more resistant to recoil.

 

[PaladinNO]

Just received a custom L21A, LHP73B 1800K - custom, as in ordered it with a Smooth reflector, instead of an Orange Peel, with the LHP73B emitter.
Simon was willing and able to make that happen, at my request.

I was very curious about the LHP73B, compared to the 519A, 1800K. And to me, the LHP73B was more Orange compared to the 519A more Yellowy tint.
But with the giant reflector in the L21A, it gave a much more "sun"-like feeling over the 3X21E, 60° bead TIR. And I swear I felt the heat coming off of it within a short time - and I don't think that was just the battery heating up.

I was still looking for a "morning sun" bedroom night stand light, and I think the L21A, LHP73B 1800K is the closest so far.
I am also considering the M21A, 519A 1800K, also with a custom Smooth reflector, but I'll first try the LHP73B for a few mornings.

My mother was also happy with her S21A Deep Red - it was surprisingly intense, and sadly with only 1 power mode.

 

[orbital]

If you do, tell us if it's holding up.

Personally I'd use an S21A, B or G for that. Same optic/reflector size as the S21E, but no e-switch and sturdier springs, so should in theory be more resistant to recoil.

+

With the S21E having springs at both ends, really can't imagine soo much movement to lose contact.
I do like the idea of the side switch for activation and having it in ramping mode (have it at like 350~400lm),,, to increase output is only like an extra second

Did order this for $10

may be a while before I fire my ar, but I'll update

 

[Claypole]

Anybody have an S12? I’m thinking about one for a general purpose light for around the house…