Convoy flashlight opinions?

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Don't have an S12 but do have an S16 (single-emitter + reflector version), and I need to mention this: the center of balance on it is off. Too far forward in the head. It works great as a light and in a vacuum its design is beautiful, but it doesn't feel nice in the hand even for short periods of time. Really wish the tail end was weightier like the M21B's.
 
Anybody have an S12? I’m thinking about one for a general purpose light for around the house…
I have an S12 with UV-A LEDs. And with the significant power from its triple LED-configuration, I intend to buy a couple more.
Still only specialty emitters though, the IR and DR (InfraRed and Deep Red).

For regular use, the beam pattern will have multiple artifacts with the trio of small reflectors though. And they are quite narrow, so it will have a relatively floody pattern. If indoor use is the primary usecase, I think I would get the S21D instead.

 
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I have an S12 with UV-A LEDs. And with the significant power from its triple LED-configuration, I intend to buy a couple more.
Still only specialty emitters though, the IR and DR (InfraRed and Deep Red).

For regular use, the beam pattern will have multiple artifacts with the trio of small reflectors though. And they are quite narrow, so it will have a relatively floody pattern.
If indoor use is the primary usecase, I think I would get the S21D instead.

I have been considering the S21D, but also maybe something from the ‘M’ series. I find the selection of Convoy models almost a bit too much, and I can’t choose!
 
I have been considering the S21D, but also maybe something from the ‘M’ series. I find the selection of Convoy models almost a bit too much, and I can’t choose!
If you don't own a Convoy yet, I suggest you start with a S2+. The S2+ was accidentally my first ever "custom" flashlight, and they are very good quality for the price, and cheap enough to buy several to test them out. :)

To describe my own purchase deciding process, I am first asking myself some questions - most importantly, what will the light be primarily used for?
After that, it's details like the beam pattern and colour temperature / CCT (Kelvin).

For indoor use, I'd recommend a floody pattern - I got the S21D's daddy, the 3X21E, 519A both in 1800K and 4000K, and both with a 60° TIR (full flood).
And with 3x 21700 cells, the 3X21E works both as a portable work lamp and emergency lantern with excellent runtime. But it's big enough to not the be the first light you grab.

In the M-series, I am very much considering this - M21H, SFT-40 3000K

I am told it has excellent CRI, and I am in general preferring warmer lights (3000-4000K). But to me, this will be an outdoor walking light, adjacent to my Emisar K9.3, E21A 3500K + W1 Green.

As far as I can tell, the entire M-series has deep reflectors, all of which indicates a throwy beam pattern.

For something jack-of-all-trades, I would say something like the S21E, 519A 4000K, 30° bead TIR.

 
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If you don't own a Convoy yet, I suggest you start with a S2+. The S2+ was accidentally my first ever "custom" flashlight, and they are very good quality for the price, and cheap enough to buy several to test them out. :)

To describe my own purchase deciding process, I am first asking myself some questions - most importantly, what will the light be primarily used for?
After that, it's details like the beam pattern and colour temperature / CCT (Kelvin).

For indoor use, I'd recommend a floody pattern - I got the S21D's daddy, the 3X21E, 519A both in 1800K and 4000K, and both with a 60° TIR (full flood).
And with 3x 21700 cells, the 3X21E works both as a portable work lamp and emergency lantern with excellent runtime. But it's big enough to not the be the first light you grab.

In the M-series, I am very much considering this - M21H, SFT-40 3000K

I am told it has excellent CRI, and I am in general preferring warmer lights (3000-4000K). But to me, this will be an outdoor walking light, adjacent to my Emisar K9.3, E21A 3500K + W1 Green.

As far as I can tell, the entire M-series has deep reflectors, all of which indicates a throwy beam pattern.

For something jack-of-all-trades, I would say something like the S21E, 519A 4000K, 30° bead TIR.

I already have a T4 running on Eneloops for my car, and a T5 which is proving excellent for around the house, but it was actually bought to go in my wife’s car.

I do like the beam profile of the T4, not much of a hotspot, more like a nicely defined flood. I suppose that’s what I, want, but a bit more ‘exotic’ and running off a 18650 or 21700.
 
I do like the beam profile of the T4, not much of a hotspot, more like a nicely defined flood. I suppose that’s what I, want, but a bit more ‘exotic’ and running off a 18650 or 21700.
In that case, check the S21A. 519A, 3500K - 4000K (both are safe bets for indoor use). Orange Peel (default) gives a smoother beam compared to a Smooth reflector, which has a more focused dot in the middle.

Tail switch, same tap to cycle mode UI, and it can tail stand (albeit a bit wobbly).
 
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I do like the beam profile of the T4, not much of a hotspot, more like a nicely defined flood. I suppose that’s what I, want, but a bit more ‘exotic’ and running off a 18650 or 21700.
Or actually, if something more exclusive is your taste this time, take a look at Emisar's offerings.

Something like perhaps the D4K or DA1K


Emisar is pretty much Convoy in a more premium package, with a better UI. The full Anduril 2 UI chart is a handful, but unless you chase that rabbit down the hole, it's quite simple. Single-click for On / Off - from on, press and hold for ramp Up / Down - from on, double-click for Turbo. Double-click again for last used mode. And that is it.

Auxiliary RGB LEDs as standard (can be turned off), illuminated switch, stainless or other metal bezel- and switch options. Just make sure to get the LumeX1-driver for better thermal and runtime performance.

Got a pair of D4K versions myself, with some pictures here:
 
+

Update to my post# 199
Got the MLOK weaponlight ring today,, didn't measure my light and took an educated guess that it'd fit.
S21E fits perfectly,,, I did add longer M4 blots to thread in further. I had the bolts 😀

Ordered another S21E in the MOA Gray with a 5000K SFT40 emitter several days ago (same 10 degree TIR)
that's going on my rifle

... at least I'm certain it fits
 
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I just did some outdoor shots, now that it's winter and actually dark enough to do them (and no mosquitoes that slowly eat me alive).
Hope you like them.

LINK! (to My Collection-thread here on CPF, to keep this thread less messy - the "preview" was huge!).

P.s.
This is technically a double-post, but it is almost all Convoys, so I permit myself to post it here too. :)
 
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That's the 3X21A, LHP73B 1800K (and much more) delivered. First impressions are mixed. It doesn't appear any brighter than the L21A body with the same emitter, which I had hoped it would be. But with 3x 21700 cells instead of just a single cell, I am then expecting near 3x the runtime.

And another thing - I ordered it with a Smooth reflector (stock is Orange peel for the LHP73B), and it has a rather big "donut" at the bottom of the reflector, giving the beam pattern notable rings around the center, especially when aiming it at something close (~2 meters). Never seen a reflector looking like this before, and it feels like it was designed for something else and "made to fit" the 3X21A.

There is also something odd about the controls for this emitter in this light. I can press and hold for Moonlight, but after a couple seconds it goes up to Low on its own - which is significantly brighter than Moonlight. And after this happens, I cannot ramp the light up or down until I have turned the light completely off first.

EDIT:
Got a photo of the reflectors here.
 
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The reflector issue is unfortunately common in Convoy, and a result of the Lego nature. Reflectors are one-size-fits-all for each model, not shaped specifically for any emitters, and these mismatches happen when an LED's LES is too big for a reflector. For example, even with orange peel reflectors, the S21E with B35AM has a veeeery slight donut hole (visible only when white-wall hunting, absolutely not an issue in real use). Simon was reluctant to offer the S6/S7/S8/S2 (original, not the S2+) with B35AM, until enough people requested it that he added it on the page.
The Cree XHP70 line and GT FC40 tend to have noticeable donut holes with smooth reflectors, and the big LHP73B should be no different.

Can't say I ever heard of a Convoy driver doing that. Send Simon a message and ask if that's normal behavior for the 3x21A.
 
Well I finally broke down and ordered my first Convoys, a M21B in orange with a SFT 70 and an orange T6 with the 519. Of course I added the extra cells as well.

Just one question, what does the MAO on some models mean?
 
Just one question, what does the MAO on some models mean?
MAO is a type of finishing, Micro-Arc Oxidation. It supposedly offer superiour resistance to scratching compared to the more common anodizing, which I personally cannot comment on.

However, all MAO-finishes I have seen (regardless of manufacturer) are all the same beige colour. I don't know whether that is inherently unavoidable in this type of process, or a deliberate design choice.
 
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MAO is, in fact, the reverse of scratch-resistant. It's so vulnerable to it that the oxidation finish on the threads doesn't last more than two or three screw/unscrew cycles. Give an MAO light a few months of use and it'll look like parts of an old space ship familiar with the process of atmospheric re-entry.

I like that "aged space object" look, I like the white color and I enjoy the chalky grippy feel of MAO, so I don't mind. I wouldn't recommend buying a side switch light (S21E/M21F/M21H/M21K) with that finish though. There's no physical lockout by unscrewing the tailcap.
 
MAO is, in fact, the reverse of scratch-resistant. It's so vulnerable to it that the oxidation finish on the threads doesn't last more than two or three screw/unscrew cycles. Give an MAO light a few months of use and it'll look like parts of an old space ship familiar with the process of atmospheric re-entry.
I made an addition to my post above, as I can't confirm that personally. And my sample size has been 1 (unless the Emisar Stone White is also MAO? If so, 2), so I felt I couldn't outright call it one way or the other. I was just reading off the marketing as to what MAO is and is labeled as. Personally, I can't say my MAO-light has fared better or worse compared to some of my anodized lights.

I do like the aesthetics of the finish as well. Both that it is white(-ish - hell, I actually like the look of the Beige plastic of the 90's), and more grippy - both are appreciated features for emergency lights if the power goes out.
And given how "everything always only comes in black" (PC mice, keyboards, flashlights, monitors, phones, measuring tapes etc.), I am automatically more interested in anything in the polar opposite colour, i.e. White.

EDIT:
My MAO-light is an Acebeam E75. And Emisar DT8K, if the White one is MAO as well.
 
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Can't say I ever heard of a Convoy driver doing that. Send Simon a message and ask if that's normal behavior for the 3x21A.
I think it could have been a fluke. I checked the battery (which was fine), and upon screwing the battery bottle back on, I felt some other parts of the light not being completely tight.

Haven't been able to repeat the issue after that, and as the Moonlight isn't remembered, the driver may have thought I was turning the light off and on again (I was holding and moving the light in my hand both times) - which would result in previous mode being activated (and I always set my lights to low before turning them off, to prevent accidental blinding when turning them back on).
 
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TL;DR, Convoy S21E, 519A 2700K vs SFT-70 3000K:
519A is better.

Having played a bit around now with a Convoy S21E, SFT-70 3000K emitter, my personal opinion of it is "it's okay".
I kept seeing it getting high praise, so I was disappinted when I saw a disctinct green-ish tint around the beam, especially at lower output levels. It's not present / visible (to me) on higher levels or levels I consider "normal use".

However, the 519A, at only 300K difference, had none of that, on any level. Maybe a yellow-ish ring, but much less noticable. And I was shining it in clean snow during testing. I love the 519A so much - I may prefer the E21A for that perfect tint, but 519A is much, MUCH more versatile. Close enough in tint for 98% of every task, and nearly 3x the Lumen.
 
I have also done some testing now with a Convoy 3X21A, LHP73B, 1800K - and it gets HOT!!! As in, even the handle got too hot (at least for me) to even touch without gloves. I brought it with me when visiting a friend this weekend, and I put it on a table and left it on for some yellow ambiance - not realizing it was ramped up way too high.

There was no flickering, no down-ramp, no indication it was getting hot, over the, I don't know, 3 hours it was standing there. But dipping it in snow, trying to cool it down, the snow just melted off of it instantly. I haven't seen that happen with a flashlight before, not ever!

I know I am going back and forth on it now, but there is something odd with the LHP73B in the 3X21A. Moonlight is sometimes not working at all now. Setting a mode, then double-click for Turbo, then double-clicking again for previous mode sometimes doesn't do anything at all. Everything feels intermittent with this light.

Practically, neither of these issues bother me (so I won't do anything with it) - it's not what I bought the light for. It was intended as another go at a "morning sun" nightstand light, set to ~40 % power, and never anything else. So I can live with it, but just as a notice to others of the issues I have with it.
 
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Damn, sounds like you got the lemon to end all citrus fruit with that SFT70. I have never, not even once, seen anyone call the 3000K one greenish, and it's not the experience with mine at all. In fact, my SFT70 in an M21F makes the B35AM in an S21E and a 519A in an S21A (all 3 are 3000K) look more positive-duv than the Nichias actually are.

I've heard of greenish SFT70 in 5000K, less so in 6500K. In 3000K, never ever ever. Sorry to hear you got a bad experience, Paladin. It's far from the norm, believe me.
 

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