Convoy flashlight opinions?

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Jean-Luc Descarte said:
Damn, sounds like you got the lemon to end all citrus fruit with that SFT70. I have never, not even once, seen anyone call the 3000K one greenish, and it's not the experience with mine at all.
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If others saw the beam, they would perhaps argue that it's not green at all, and that it's looking exactly like it's supposed to. Maybe I have just become spoiled with the E21A (~4000K) and 519A 1800K. But I have seen enough Nitecore lights (and Fenix too, my favourite professional brand, for that matter) to know what a "green tint" looks like.

I'll see if I can get a photo of it for reference, with the 519A next to it. Both lights are Convoy S21E and both have a 45° TIR-lens, so it can't be that hard to get a comparison shot. For all I know, it could be the particular TIR-lens that's causing some thint shift, I was surprised to see a reflector cause a change in both CCT and DUV / tint.

As for this particular light, both me and my friend thought the 519A had better colour rendering too - with Reds in particular - compared to the SFT-70 (though my Emisar D4K, 519A 3600K mix handily beat both of them ^^). So it's not just my opinion.

All that said, it wasn't what I would call noticable unless I specifically looked for it. But as a first-time viewer of the SFT-70 - given all the praise I have seen it get, both here and on Reddit - I had expected better. However, my mother certainly won't care (the recipient of the light), so it's technically all good. :)
 
PaladinNO said:
If others saw the beam, they would perhaps argue that it's not green at all, and that it's looking exactly like it's supposed to. Maybe I have just become spoiled with the E21A (~4000K) and 519A 1800K. But I have seen enough Nitecore lights (and Fenix too, my favourite professional brand, for that matter) to know what a "green tint" looks like.

I'll see if I can get a photo of it for reference, with the 519A next to it. Both lights are Convoy S21E and both have a 45° TIR-lens, so it can't be that hard to get a comparison shot. For all I know, it could be the particular TIR-lens that's causing some thint shift, I was surprised to see a reflector cause a change in both CCT and DUV / tint.

As for this particular light, both me and my friend thought the 519A had better colour rendering too - with Reds in particular - compared to the SFT-70 (though my Emisar D4K, 519A 3600K mix handily beat both of them ^^). So it's not just my opinion.

All that said, it wasn't what I would call noticable unless I specifically looked for it. But as a first-time viewer of the SFT-70 - given all the praise I have seen it get, both here and on Reddit - I had expected better. However, my mother certainly won't care (the recipient of the light), so it's technically all good. :)
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I get what you're saying...the rosiness of my NTG50 emitter makes the Nichias of all CCT's look greenish, but when used in conjunction with other greenish lights, mellows out the greenish and makes them more bearable. I think it has to do with light blending color theory, greens and pinks neutralize, and neutral tints get oversaturated by overly green or pink. It's more than just a "comparative" perception difference, blending 2 different DUV will actually create a different quality of resultant light.

Notice in this photo how the cool white in 5700k on the left looks warmish green?
1000011720.jpg
 
Jean-Luc Descarte said:
I've heard of greenish SFT70 in 5000K, less so in 6500K. In 3000K, never ever ever. Sorry to hear you got a bad experience, Paladin. It's far from the norm, believe me.
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I have done some more testing with the S21E, against different background colours and textures. And I have compared it to different 519A CCTs (1800K, 2700K and 3600K mix).

The green-ish - again, this is likely highly subjective, and I'd only call it a halo around the edge of the beam - is only visible at the lowest setting / Moonlight. The moment I ramp it up even just a single step, it goes yellowy / neutral.

But again, it's a non-issue. The light was not for me, and the recipient is very happy with it, and that's all I care about. I can't quite put my finger on it, but there was also something about the S21E 519A 2700K I didn't like. It has to be the TIR-lens (same 45° TIR lens as the S21E SFT-70 3000K) doing something with either the CCT or DUV that was unexpected.

And I don't care about any of this - the lights were cheap, and they will definitely serve their intended purpose, which was an EDC for my mother (SFT-70) and new emergency lights in the bathrooms and living room (3x lights with 519A 2700K). The 45° TIR beam pattern is perfect (as expected) for indoor use - not too floody, and no blinding hotspot should I hit a window or something in the darkness.
 
My T6 and M21B arrived yesterday. What a pain to enter mode selection. That alone almost makes me never want to buy another convoy again. Even watching youtube videos it took me over an hour to get the M21 to go into mode selection.

The clip on the T6 sucks, it is far to rigid to use. You practically need a screwdriver to pry it open enough to clip on anything. There is no springiness to it what soever. Is an alternative clip to fit the T6?

Other than that the lights were impressive enough that I think I will keep them.
 
ghostguy6 said:
My T6 and M21B arrived yesterday. What a pain to enter mode selection. That alone almost makes me never want to buy another convoy again. Even watching youtube videos it took me over an hour to get the M21 to go into mode selection.

The clip on the T6 sucks, it is far to rigid to use. You practically need a screwdriver to pry it open enough to clip on anything. There is no springiness to it what soever. Is an alternative clip to fit the T6?

Other than that the lights were impressive enough that I think I will keep them.
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I believe the T6 is a reverse clicky, so you actuallly need to click the light on before doing the "20 tap" programming. I'm guessing that the driver immediately enters programming mode with no tolerance for "overage press"? i.e. (tapped 21 times = programming group 1) instead of (20+ taps wait for pause before entering programming sequence)?
 
The problem I had with the M21b was you had to tap the switch so fast that the led would not light between taps. All the videos showed a slower tap. I would say I had to turn the light on and complete the taps within 2 seconds or it would fail. Maybe the driver is faulty? Also while starting in group 1.1, the 20th tap would often stop in the battery check mode rather than the programming mode making it harder to know if you had actually entered programming mode until the 3rd flash. Getting into option 2 to turn on memory mode was even harder.

The T6 did come in preset to mode 1.2 with the memory already on so I didn't even try to adjust it.

I did order some forward switches that should be here next week. I plan on modify both lights to use them. Hopefully I wont ever need to reprogram them.

I ordered some of the screw on clips for the s2 series. I am hoping I can tap them into the lanyard holes on the T6.
convoylight.com

black stainless steel clip , for S2+ / S3 / C8 - Convoy flashlight

black stainless steel clip , for S2+ / S3 / C8
convoylight.com convoylight.com

If I can successfully modify this T6 to a forward clickly and a decent deep carry pocket clip I will have a group order of 14 for my dog walking group.
 
ghostguy6 said:
The problem I had with the M21b was you had to tap the switch so fast that the led would not light between taps. All the videos showed a slower tap. I would say I had to turn the light on and complete the taps within 2 seconds or it would fail. Maybe the driver is faulty? Also while starting in group 1.1, the 20th tap would often stop in the battery check mode rather than the programming mode making it harder to know if you had actually entered programming mode until the 3rd flash. Getting into option 2 to turn on memory mode was even harder.

The T6 did come in preset to mode 1.2 with the memory already on so I didn't even try to adjust it.

I did order some forward switches that should be here next week. I plan on modify both lights to use them. Hopefully I wont ever need to reprogram them.

I ordered some of the screw on clips for the s2 series. I am hoping I can tap them into the lanyard holes on the T6.
convoylight.com

black stainless steel clip , for S2+ / S3 / C8 - Convoy flashlight

black stainless steel clip , for S2+ / S3 / C8
convoylight.com convoylight.com

If I can successfully modify this T6 to a forward clickly and a decent deep carry pocket clip I will have a group order of 14 for my dog walking group.
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You shouldn't count how many times you mash the button, just keep mashing until it stops lighting up at all for a full second. That's how I've been doing it for over a decade.

You won't need to reprogram the lights, but you _will_ have to adapt the tail boots. The forward switch is much longer than the reverse one.

The bolt and nut clips work perfectly fine on any T-, S-, S21- and M21-series lanyard eyelet. They'll definitely work on the T6, because they work on the T3 already. They work excellent too, you won't regret them.
 
Jean-Luc Descarte said:
You shouldn't count how many times you mash the button, just keep mashing until it stops lighting up at all for a full second. That's how I've been doing it for over a decade.

You won't need to reprogram the lights, but you _will_ have to adapt the tail boots. The forward switch is much longer than the reverse one.

The bolt and nut clips work perfectly fine on any T-, S-, S21- and M21-series lanyard eyelet. They'll definitely work on the T6, because they work on the T3 already. They work excellent too, you won't regret them.
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I tried that too. For this light the key ended up being the speed I was pushing the switch. It seems much more finicky than the one in the youtube videos.
Its nice to know the clips will work. It shouldn't be a problem to modify the boot, I have done many before. I even ordered some of the steel and coloured aluminum ones as well to see if they will work. If not I'm only out a few dollars.
 
Random question, but does Simon have a "for the price difference"-listing, similar to Hank?

I'd like to send Simon a tip for the help he's given me regarding the 519A 1800K. And I don't know whether making a purchase with a more expensive LED, and then add a note with the change request would mess up his inventory or order system.
 
Now 1 USD is around 153 JPY. On convoylight.com, the rate is about 155 JPY / 1 USD, while PayPal's rate is 161 JPY / 1 USD. PayPal must earn so much foreign exchange gains.
 
ChipDale said:
Now 1 USD is around 153 JPY.
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Doing the conversion to NOK, I am always paying in USD. The NOK sum PayPal is giving me is ALWAYS more compared to what I am charged when paying in USD, and letting my bank handle the exchange rate.

PayPal must be like.
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