HDS Systems #23

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The Headlamp, AA light and higher burst mode among other things were asked about a few Henry weeks ago.

I got the 18500 compartment but for some odd reason didn’t jump on the 18350. I currently am down to one; my EDC that has a 5000k 519a. Beautiful beam but sometimes would like a bit more oomph.
No harm in asking for it. You get nothing if you don't ask.
 
1000%

The Headlamp, AA light and higher burst mode among other things were asked about a few Henry weeks ago.

I got the 18500 compartment but for some odd reason didn’t jump on the 18350. I currently am down to one; my EDC that has a 5000k 519a. Beautiful beam but sometimes would like a bit more oomph.
With a spacer, you can run an 18350 in an 18500, but not the reverse.
With a sleeve, you can run an AA, 14500, 16500, 17500 (assuming you have any of these now-weird latter formats), 16340, any anything between.

Going to 18500 allows for a LOT of options, and if you do 18350, you can run that...or a 16340, and that's it.
 
Another option is a CR123 primary and a spacer in the 18500 body.
This I have as a backup in my bag. I have a bunch of 18500s and love the capacity but there are time I would like a slightly smaller light (in my scrubs) and 16340s aren’t great.
 
To blow a hole through on of Henry's mantras about led thermals/temp and why his light output levels suck compared to competitors....

About ~4 years ago I bought a malkoff 2x123/1x18650 light. It runs hotter on 18650 due to circuitry working harder due to lower voltage and longer runtime due to higher capacity.

As it so happens, this light is perfect for an activity in which I leave it in a machined wooden holder (clamps at the tail so appreciable heat transfer) until the battery dies... every single night for ~4 years. Head temp is >150F. No airflow.

No output/emitter problems/degradation. (I confirmed w/ a light meter). No color shift.

Henry's just making excuses. Don't fall for them.
 
To blow a hole through on of Henry's mantras about led thermals/temp and why his light output levels suck compared to competitors....

About ~4 years ago I bought a malkoff 2x123/1x18650 light. It runs hotter on 18650 due to circuitry working harder due to lower voltage and longer runtime due to higher capacity.

As it so happens, this light is perfect for an activity in which I leave it in a machined wooden holder (clamps at the tail so appreciable heat transfer) until the battery dies... every single night for ~4 years. Head temp is >150F. No airflow.

No output/emitter problems/degradation. (I confirmed w/ a light meter). No color shift.

Henry's just making excuses. Don't fall for them.
I think his argument is that overrunning them decreases the lifespan.

This is likely correct, but with a lifespan of several decades, it may not be a practically appreciable of a difference.
 
To blow a hole through on of Henry's mantras about led thermals/temp and why his light output levels suck compared to competitors....

About ~4 years ago I bought a malkoff 2x123/1x18650 light. It runs hotter on 18650 due to circuitry working harder due to lower voltage and longer runtime due to higher capacity.

As it so happens, this light is perfect for an activity in which I leave it in a machined wooden holder (clamps at the tail so appreciable heat transfer) until the battery dies... every single night for ~4 years. Head temp is >150F. No airflow.

No output/emitter problems/degradation. (I confirmed w/ a light meter). No color shift.

Henry's just making excuses. Don't fall for them.
To be fair, I believe Henry is running his lights within nominal power draws not only for the LED/electronics, but for the longevity of cells as well. While an average cr123a can HANDLE a couple amps, its best performance comes in between 100 and 1000mA. At those ratings, you're looking at utilizing the full capacity of the cell, not an inefficient 3A burn to achieve 700 to 1200 lumens.

Typically, the harder you drive something, the more inefficient the power becomes...
 
Typically, the harder you drive something, the more inefficient the power becomes...
It depends of what you choose for fuel..primary cell or Li-Po. 18350 or 22430 are better option. Also the recent technology in driver application give more good numbers in term of CC(constant current)/lumens. I think Henry can be produce (if he want obviously) similar body with more efficient solution. Also the MCPCB is not full copper or aluminum. it's not a criticism but only a point of view. I have 2 HDS and i hope for the future to see new things from Henry more modern with best solution Henry can do
 

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