The Official Zebralight Thread

[indigon]

I really need to learn how to program my Zebras. I think I am missing out...

I wish there were a decent video explaining it.

This may also help getting started :

Google Search

www.google.com

 

[TimeOnTarget]

This may also help getting started :

Google Search

www.google.com

The reddit explanation is extremely helpful.
Thanks for your post.

 

[indigon]

indigon, your charts look great, easy to understand

I also use my G6 with
1C to Low,
Hold to Medium,
2C to High

Definitely an evolving process, I use them for reference during experimentation and fine-tuning. Glad to hear someone else can read them. :)

 

[jon_slider]

I use them for reference during experimentation

same
visual aide ;-)

 

[this_is_nascar]

I agree with the click=low, hold=med and double-click=high. It's how all my G6 is setup on all my ZLs.

 

[Beard Man]

I noticed a small issue with my SC65c HI.
When I turn it On it freezes and stays On in this first click/mode, I can't turn it Off.
Doesn't matter how many times you click it On/Off it always stay On.
This has happened several times.
The only thing that helps is slightly unscrewing the cap, then it works fine again.

 

[jon_slider]

When I turn it On it freezes and stays On

sorry to hear that

avoid using too much lube, dont flood the threads

if cleaning the contact ring in the tailcap with alcohol on a Qtip, and also cleaning the end of the body tube w alcohol does not solve the problem,

you may want to contact Zebra for Warranty

 

[indigon]

I noticed a small issue with my SC65c HI.
When I turn it On it freezes and stays On in this first click/mode, I can't turn it Off.
Doesn't matter how many times you click it On/Off it always stay On.
This has happened several times.
The only thing that helps is slightly unscrewing the cap, then it works fine again.

I have that happen also, on all my Zebralights on rare occasion.. Usually happens during a major programming clickfest, so I'll call it a programming glitch. Then I'll go months with no problem whatsoever under normal use. Many folks have reported this occasional glitch, maybe someone with more knowledge about the programming can chime in with more info..

Edit: I'll try the Q-Tip mentioned above, I do keep the tailcap lubed up lightly. It's not a big deal either way.

 

[Beard Man]

Yes, it happens many times during a major programming clickfest.
But this morning, when I just turn the light On, it stays on continuously, without any changes when I click it On/Off.

ZebraLight's response was to return it for a refund or a replacement.
Hate to do this (send it back for replacement) and wait who knows how long.
Is there a chance I won't have the same issues with a new/replacement light?

------------

Cleaned all contacts with alcohol, lightly lube o-ring and thread, will see if it helps.
Thanks everyone!

 

[indigon]

Yes, it happens many times during a major programming clickfest.
But this morning, when I just turn the light On, it stays on continuously, without any changes when I click it On/Off.

ZebraLight's response was to return it for a refund or a replacement.
Hate to do this (send it back for replacement) and wait who knows how long.
Is there a chance I won't have the same issues with a new/replacement light?

------------

Cleaned all contacts with alcohol, lightly lube o-ring and thread, will see if it helps.
Thanks everyone!

Definitely an extremely rare case. Take it apart, clean the contact rings, change the battery, jump up and down and if the problem continues send it back. Sorry to hear about this, best wishes.

Hopefully it's not a switch failure. Let us know how things work out. Possibly a firmware glitch.

Edit: I wiped off all my ZL contact rings inside the tailcap and on the tail body as Jon_Slider suggested just for fun, no issues since. Time will tell, something to keep in mind.

Check out this link:

Google Search

www.google.com

 

[F89]

So I ended up getting an SC54c n.

Here’s my initial thoughts and some comparisons against my old, like new, SC52w L2.
Some key points for me so far:
The 52 renders white better, the 54 makes whites a bit beige.
The 54 obviously has better CRI.
I prefer the colour balance of the 52 better overall and the whiter whites.
I can detect PWM lines on the 54 on low lows but not on the 52 when using my phone camera.

Many other observations and opinions on these two lights.

Took the SC600Fd III Plus out last night which gave me some decent appreciation for it.

 

[indigon]

So I ended up getting an SC54c n.

Here's my initial thoughts and some comparisons against my old, like new, SC52w L2.
Some key points for me so far:
The 52 renders white better, the 54 makes whites a bit beige.
The 54 obviously has better CRI.
I prefer the colour balance of the 52 better overall and the whiter whites.
I can detect PWM lines on the 54 on low lows but not on the 52 when using my phone camera.

Many other observations and opinions on these two lights.

Took the SC600Fd III Plus out last night which gave me some decent appreciation for it.

Thanks for the quick notes on the SC54c N, I was looking at these. I have the SC53c N, will probably retire it. Mine seems to go through Eneloop's pretty fast, no Li-Ion support and is a bit small and underpowered for my taste. No complaints about the beam here. I'm consolidating into the SC64c/65c format, the perfect EDC size for me with a long lasting18650 packed into the size of an HDS 123, but with 3x the punch and battery capacity..

 

[flipyflop2]

Thanks for the quick notes on the SC54c N, I was looking at these. I have the SC53c N, will probably retire it. Mine seems to go through Eneloop's pretty fast, no Li-Ion support and is a bit small and underpowered for my taste. No complaints about the beam here. I'm consolidating into the SC64c/65c format, the perfect EDC size for me with a long lasting18650 packed into the size of an HDS 123, but with 3x the punch and battery capacity..

Basically that's how the SC54c N is as well. For me it works indoors, but it barely has 1600 candela on the highest mode, I measured 81 meters of throw which means usable kind of 20-30 meters at best. Would love to have 14500 support for the SC54c N reaching something like at least 4 or 5000 candela.

The SC64c/SC65c are the perfect sweet spot. The size is barely bigger than most AA flashlights but they really throw. While the specs for the SC65c are not very impressive with just over 600 lumens it's a quite throwy beam having over 10000 candela, it's very usable both indoors and outdoors.

 

[F89]

Thanks for the quick notes on the SC54c N, I was looking at these. I have the SC53c N, will probably retire it. Mine seems to go through Eneloop's pretty fast, no Li-Ion support and is a bit small and underpowered for my taste. No complaints about the beam here. I'm consolidating into the SC64c/65c format, the perfect EDC size for me with a long lasting18650 packed into the size of an HDS 123, but with 3x the punch and battery capacity..

I can see the appeal of the 65 over the 54.
Getting the 54 was more out of interest for me, something to play with and add to my AA lights.
I've been enjoying rediscovering my little used zebralights.
Have to say the 54 is definitely lesser than the 52 in my opinion.
I was surprised to see the modulation on the low modes (could see it on my phone on all four low levels), I wasn't even looking for it. Can't really tell if it's cycling all the way off or not but it's probably not particularly relevant, can't see it with the naked eye.
None of my older zebras show any sign of anything but constant output.

As far as I can tell, any gains in reported runtime are mainly down to the specs recorded using eneloop pro vs eneloop white (~25% extra battery capacity).
Either way my opinion is that the old drivers are better. And that's disregarding that the old drivers can use 14500 as I only use eneloop or L91 in them.
Edit: I can appreciate that some may prefer the further customisation of G6,7.
For me though, I’m OK with the way the old drivers (G5) work. My only issue regarding this with the new light was that the spacing didn’t suit me with the options on G5 so I programmed G6 to function just like G5 but with spacing that suited me better (which ends up being just like the old drivers).

Pretty much every aspect of the 52 I prefer over the 54 but that's not to say that I don't like the 54. It does give me even greater appreciation of the 52 though.
I've got two H52w, originally bought the other for a friend that only had a brief requirement and returned it to me. Happy to have a backup/spare.
In that regard I'd rather have two SC52w L2 than the SC54c N.

I've started using one of the H52 outdoors as a compact option to my 18650 driven headlamp that I'm really fond of. I'll pair up the H52 with the SC54 as a compact kit and continue to keep the SC52 fresh for as long as possible.

 

[Brokenarrow]

Looking to add a few Zebra lights to my collection If anyone has any older models they would part with please reach out- I do have the latest versions.

 

[jon_slider]

thanks for all your thoughts

Can't really tell if it's cycling all the way off or not but it's probably not particularly relevant, can't see it with the naked eye.

My Opple 3 has a Flicker Index function. It shows that the Lux are being dimmed to about 40% on some modes, agree the frequency is too high to see. Here are some of the outputs tested:

here is a 2023 SC53c N, it also does not have constant Lux on several modes

None of my older zebras show any sign of anything but constant output.

This 2023 H53Fc N has some nice steady lux on most modes (I avoid M1).

for comparison here is the rock steady lux on 6 out of 7 modes, on my Skilhunt H150:

 

[F89]

Jon, doing a bit of reading it appears that the H53 and SC53c N are the preferable options over the 54.
Interesting to see the flicker measurements.

That Skilhunt H150 looks like a good option. It can use NiMH and has my favourite headlamp optic, the beaded TIR and preferred headlamp button location, on the side rather than the end.
The H04 looks like a good option with both the attributes I mentioned above and a similar looking UI to my much used Armytek in 18650 form.
I don’t need to replace the Armytek but the H04 is tempting (looks good. Is it?). I do have a back up AA headlamp, couldn’t hurt to have a back up 18650 one. And the headband, while still working is well stretched and lost it’s elastic.
If I keep looking at CPF I’ll easily talk myself into one, I’m halfway there.

 

[jon_slider]

H150 is a nice small light, and very drop proof, as there is no glass. I like that it was easy to open the light to dedome the 519a (I wanted a warmer cct and more rosy tint)

For 18650 my pick would be the Skilhunt H300 (offered w Nichia 144 same as Armytek). I value the option to use 2x CR123a. It also works w both short 65mm flat top and long 69.5mm protected button top.

I like the Skilhunt UI,
not a fan of the magnetic charging port,
wish it was USB-C.. oh well ;-)

 

[jon_slider]

One pitfall of the H150 and H300, the switch will turn on if pressed on a table or flat surface. Store with tailcap loose... a Zebra has a much better recessed switch.

 

[F89]

I’ll check it out, although I really shouldn’t.
I would prefer no onboard charging.
Ability to use protected cells a must for versatility.
My Armytek is fairly old now but it’s really good and going strong. Something similar would be nice.