The most powerful Maglite mods list

jimjones3630

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Hi Jimmy,

supposed 33mm OD. the old ones-no c in serial #- and new ones have around here 31.74mm is about it. Don't have any closer to 33mm.

Either A123 or emoli are about the same OD 25.88mm with Kapton 26.37mm with shrink wrap. for A123, 26.05mm Emoli.

What is your ID?

64458 in 4D with extension leaves plenty room for insulation.


How well can you fit them into a 33mm ROUND Mag tube?
 

LuxLuthor

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Hi Jimmy,

supposed 33mm OD. the old ones-no c in serial #- and new ones have around here 31.74mm is about it. Don't have any closer to 33mm.

Either A123 or emoli are about the same OD 25.88mm with Kapton 26.37mm with shrink wrap. for A123, 26.05mm Emoli.

What is your ID?

64458 in 4D with extension leaves plenty room for insulation.

JJ, if he is indeed only talking about A123's there is still the limiit on length of light, and needing to bore a Mag C. I have used Emolis in my D Mag by cutting a PVC 1.25" lengthwise as a spacer/holding tube.
 

JimmyM

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Hi Jimmy,

supposed 33mm OD. the old ones-no c in serial #- and new ones have around here 31.74mm is about it. Don't have any closer to 33mm.

Either A123 or emoli are about the same OD 25.88mm with Kapton 26.37mm with shrink wrap. for A123, 26.05mm Emoli.

What is your ID?

64458 in 4D with extension leaves plenty room for insulation.
I meant the 33mm ID of the D mag body.
 

jimjones3630

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thought asking about cells in prior discussion.


Not plenty of room for LiPo prismatic cells. You might be able to squeeze 4 24mm wide x 6mm thick cells into a D mag body. They'll fit in a quad bore. I'm not sure what the standard cell dimensions are.
 

jimjones3630

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LL these batteries were charged 2 days ago and used some. Didn't want fresh hot cells will try that tomorrow. The difference is also a product of the NTC function. On a good day I have to rethink how it works and can't really cogently explain now.

Basically, reduces voltage on start up providing a slow start, and then has a residual effect limiting bulb voltage.

post 133 and onward
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/168564&page=5

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2185551#post2185551
JJ, why is there that 1.4V delta?
 

KingGlamis

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Thanks to all for the great info in this thread. Ordered my bi-pin socket for my Mag a few days ago and can't wait to experiment with it.
 

LuxLuthor

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Thanks to all for the great info in this thread. Ordered my bi-pin socket for my Mag a few days ago and can't wait to experiment with it.

LOL! I just saw your sig line. :crackup:

Also, check the Mad Scientist experimenting I'm planning on doing to get some "real world" standardized data, beyond the AWR Hotrater that we all rely on too much. That's in part why I started that as a separate thread. This one is getting pretty long and technical for the newer user.
 

jimjones3630

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Yes, have learned alot from others in this thread. Thanks to all.

Bi-pin sockets offer a drop in upgrade solution. When the bi-pin is permanently fixed by soldered light ground to bi-pin ground and switch upper contact pos to bi-pin pos then it is super low resistance on par or exceeding kiu socket.

Thanks to all for the great info in this thread. Ordered my bi-pin socket for my Mag a few days ago and can't wait to experiment with it.
 

cat

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Taking a 4D host, one 87mm extension overall lenght less than 6D. 18 1/4vs 19 1/2inch. Stuff with 5 emolis 3.7v nominal, 4.2v freshly off charger. Add 90w 64458s yeilds 20.0vbat, 18.2vbulb. Will try hot off the charger next time.

Compaired to bench testing posted here earlier it really is hard to put into words except is the brightest light I personally have seen.

:eek: :thumbsup:


How can I make one like that? :D Without machining/fabricating? I can get a 4D from my friend. I'd prefer the size of a 3D, but...maybe... well, I can get a 4D cheaply, so...what parts do I need to get something like that? :D
And where to get them?

I've been reading Maglite mod threads for days and nights, and I'm not sure I'm really getting anywhere. The other beamshot I saw that looked ok to me, for what I want - very floody, up to about 20-30 yards, was one with a .... Osram Decostar IRC on Mag 5D (Yellowbie)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1549759&postcount=1
Help! :D

PS: I can get machining done, like shortening the body tube, if necessary.
 
Last edited:

jimjones3630

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Hi Cat,

44mm from tailcap screw down to threads with out head. So don't know anyone with 87mm Dmag extention. If can get a 6 D and have cut down and threaded might be cheaper considering cost to mail. IRC bulb need 17 to 18v to really shine. couple days ago put a 50w in this mod with 5 emoli cells and it was yellow beam and not as bright or white white color as 64558 90w ran in same mod.

The rest Kiu or bi-pin?
there are people who favor one or the other and the debate hasn't settled yet from what I can tell.

Aluminium reflector fixed or cammed, smo or ???
lens USL or Boro or ??
Emolis x5
tailcap fix
google CPF to find dealer for these parts, don't know of anyone having all thus saving on shipping costs.
have the fun of working it out yourself.

:eek: :thumbsup:


How can I make one like that? :D Without machining/fabricating? I can get a 4D from my friend. I'd prefer the size of a 3D, but...maybe... well, I can get a 4D cheaply, so...what parts do I need to get something like that? :D
And where to get them?

I've been reading Maglite mod threads for days and nights, and I'm not sure I'm really getting anywhere. The other beamshot I saw that looked ok to me, for what I want - very floody, up to about 20-30 yards, was one with a .... Osram Decostar IRC on Mag 5D (Yellowbie)
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1549759&postcount=1
Help! :D

PS: I can get machining done, like shortening the body tube, if necessary.
 

petrev

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Hi Cat,

44mm from tailcap screw down to threads with out head. So don't know anyone with 87mm Dmag extention. If can get a 6 D and have cut down and threaded might be cheaper considering cost to mail. IRC bulb need 17 to 18v to really shine. couple days ago put a 50w in this mod with 5 emoli cells and it was yellow beam and not as bright or white white color as 64558 90w ran in same mod.

. . . EDIT . . . .

Hi Jim et al,

Currently trying the IRC50 with 6x A123 cells in a 6D+37mm - Long but Light.

Short Runtime on the A123 cells - getting

20.1 Vbatt O/C
19.2 Vbulb
5.2 A DirectDrive

Very bright and white. The IRC lamps tend to be quite floody. The FM-3" heads give some more spot but with plenty of spill.

Noticeably brighter and whiter than C-Lions that were still really rather nice but must be running at their limit !

Short Runtime on C-Lions . . .

17.7 Vbulb
4.94 A DD

AW-CDriver

17.2 Vbulb (AC+DC)
4.9 A (AC+DC)

Looking forward to getting some more IRC65s and some 64458s to try with the A123s and some E-Molis that should be arriving soon.

Cheers Pete
 

jimjones3630

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Pete 20.1vbulb wow! Noticed get the same amount of voltage reduction with favorite NTC or AW's driver. 6x3.3v 19.8v nominal, looks like maxed out. 6x3.7v(emoli)22.2vbat, your getting about 1v sag in your circuit. 21.2vbulb may not instan-flash 64458. One NTC might be too much.

2xemoli with NTC, 5761 last night got 8.17vbat, 6.9vbulb. That why think might be too much

Exciting stuff!

Jim

Hi Jim et al,

Currently trying the IRC50 with 6x A123 cells in a 6D+37mm - Long but Light.

Short Runtime on the A123 cells - getting

20.1 Vbatt O/C
19.2 Vbulb
5.2 A DirectDrive

Very bright and white. The IRC lamps tend to be quite floody. The FM-3" heads give some more spot but with plenty of spill.

Noticeably brighter and whiter than C-Lions that were still really rather nice but must be running at their limit !

Short Runtime on C-Lions . . .

17.7 Vbulb
4.94 A DD

AW-CDriver

17.2 Vbulb (AC+DC)
4.9 A (AC+DC)

Looking forward to getting some more IRC65s and some 64458s to try with the A123s and some E-Molis that should be arriving soon.

Cheers Pete
 

petrev

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Hi Jim,

20.1 Vbatt O/C
19.2 Vbulb
5.2 A DirectDrive

Sorry Jim that's 20.1V Open Circuit ! Only 19.2Vbulb.
Haven't got an easy method of getting the drop through the switch and tailspring etc. so that is the battery sag too. Try to work out a method tom. maybe !

Still - not too much sag on the A123 cells.

Looking forward to getting the 64458s and the E-Molis for some proper testing, and then all the new drivers that hopefully will be along soon(ish)

Not sure how the standard Mag switch will hold up with the 64458s ? Must remember to be careful . . .

Cheers Pete

ps. The JimmyM SS with max trim may be just the ticket for 6x E-Moli ! ! !

Pete 20.1vbulb wow! Noticed get the same amount of voltage reduction with favorite NTC or AW's driver. 6x3.3v 19.8v nominal, looks like maxed out. 6x3.7v(emoli)22.2vbat, your getting about 1v sag in your circuit. 21.2vbulb may not instan-flash 64458. One NTC might be too much.

2xemoli with NTC, 5761 last night got 8.17vbat, 6.9vbulb. That why think might be too much

Exciting stuff!

Jim
 
Last edited:

JimmyM

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A properly modded Mag switch is good for ~10 amps (So I'm told). The 64458 is pulling ~12 amps when driven hard. I don't think that switch is going to last too long.
I'd consider some type of MOSFET modified switch. They can handle the amps, no problem.

Not sure how the standard Mag switch will hold up with the 64458s ? Must remember to be careful . . .

Cheers Pete
 

petrev

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A properly modded Mag switch is good for ~10 amps (So I'm told). The 64458 is pulling ~12 amps when driven hard. I don't think that switch is going to last too long.
I'd consider some type of MOSFET modified switch. They can handle the amps, no problem.

Thanks Jimmy,

A timely warning
:candle:
 

jimjones3630

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Pete sorry misread. Looking forward to see those measurements with Emolis. Don't recall reading are your A123s in factor weld configuration or separated? For the switch wired kiu pos to upper contact, soldered kiu neg to usual ground location using the "Jimmy strap" think it has been called. Solder the contact ring between upper and lower switch contacts. Then solder piece of copper plate onto the bottom of switch contact to batteries with patch between bottom switch contact and copper plate.

In another thread is discussion on which material to use in electrical contacts with copper of course having the highest conductivity and the down side of corrosion. Silicon spray to copper will retard corrosion some how much who knows.
 

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