TorchLAB V5 Triple LED drop ins - Programming, 3500L, Secondary LED

[jdboy]

Update

v5 Triple dropins ready to ship, in XPL red and XPL amber:

http://www.oveready.com/a-engines-h...irty-three-level-drop-in-3500l-/prod_163.html

Already ordered along with the new host [emoji1303]

 

[the badger]

Already ordered along with the new host [emoji1303]

I snagged the last Unified Z70 and an A33 to go with it just now

 

[Matt7337]

I'm about to pull the trigger on a V5 XPL Red to put in my C2. I currently have a Malkoff M61 and genuine Surefire clicky tail cap, running it on 18650s but I'm going to move that dropin to a bored 6P and keep it in our holiday home which is on the coast and prone to power cuts over the winter!

I plan on replacing the SF Clicky on my C2 with the original Z41 modded with a Torchlab Mcclicky. The question is will I need to replace the stock Z44 bezel with a cooling bezel to run the triple without getting extremely hot? The main thing I'll be using this for is walking the dog morning and night, so I could have it on constantly in a medium mode for more than an hour, with occasional bursts of high mode. Something tells me the light will be uncomfortably hot to the touch if I don't run this thing in a finned head.

 

[thenikjones]

Can you fit the Walking Wand onto a crenalated bezel?

I am very new to this!

 

[the badger]

Can you fit the Walking Wand onto a crenalated bezel?

I am very new to this!

Yes

 

[ElectronGuru]

I plan on replacing the SF Clicky on my C2 with the original Z41 modded with a Torchlab Mcclicky. The question is will I need to replace the stock Z44 bezel with a cooling bezel to run the triple without getting extremely hot? The main thing I'll be using this for is walking the dog morning and night, so I could have it on constantly in a medium mode for more than an hour, with occasional bursts of high mode. Something tells me the light will be uncomfortably hot to the touch if I don't run this thing in a finned head.

Replacing is good, the v5 will melt the spring through which the z59 passes all current.

3000mah type cells can provide full single cell output (high) for more than an hour

Section H shows how to custom set new temperatures:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?403685


If 65c feels to warm, change it to 55 or even 45, then it won't get hotter than you like!

Cooling bezels may then extend how much time you get a particular level before dimming.

 

[U2v5]

I normally run my v5 dropin with the Cryos bezel when running it full out (level 33) with two 18350s. My primary application in this mode is specialized lighting for macro photography. I have the temperature set to the 65c.

The Mk I eye and the Mk II brain are amazing at adapting to existing available light. When walking the dog or out in the yard at night I'll routinely use an output level of 21 (over 300 lumens). Level 33 is but a click away and is often used for a short check of "what's over there?" AND BECAUSE ITS FUN!

My new BOSS 70 is set 45c. I daily carry it with a 18650. I've run it at level 21 continuously without tripping the thermal protection forever. Even at level 28 it takes about 5 minutes for the tiny BOSS to get to the 45c temp and have it throttle down...

 

[Matt7337]

Thanks for the info guys! I will eventually invest in a Cryos head for the C2 early next year but for now I will probably run it in the standard head and see how it does.

Apologies if this has been asked in the thread before; are the support posts for the optic large enough to be drilled for Tritium vials? Has anyone attempted this with one of these drop-ins yet?

 

[JohnSmith]

Apologies if this has been asked in the thread before; are the support posts for the optic large enough to be drilled for Tritium vials? Has anyone attempted this with one of these drop-ins yet?

The V5 drop-ins are sealed. The optics can't be changed like the BOSS.

 

[Matt7337]

I know, but I was wondering if it could be drilled in place.

 

[mk2rocco]

I've swapped the sealed optic in a V5 E-Series. You just have to carefully destroy the old optic and press the new one in.

 

[jdboy]

Speaking of the V5 E, luckily for me the new drop in I just received has a much more pleasing tint than the E series I had.

 

[MarkIAlbert]

Just got a new TorchLAB V5 Triple and tried to program it. The first attempt at programming put it in a mode that blinks white for a fraction of a second, then goes to solid red. I can't get it out of that mode - tried different screens different screen brightness settings, different programming settings, different battery configurations...Always the same result: Quick flash of white followed by solid red. Any thoughts?

 

[ElectronGuru]

Sorry for the confusion

Flashing white then red indicates 111 voltage pin, programming is the longer 222 pin. Red flashes only.

 

[MarkIAlbert]

Sorry for the confusion

Flashing white then red indicates 111 voltage pin, programming is the longer 222 pin. Red flashes only.

I'm not sure what that means... I put the light into programming mode. All seems well. Then I put the light up to the screen and run the optical program. The low red led disappears. I power off the light. Then I power it on at which point the light goes white-red. The white is on for a fraction of a second and the the bright red immediately turns on and stays on.

What should I do?

 

[ElectronGuru]

I'm not sure what that means... I put the light into programming mode. All seems well. Then I put the light up to the screen and run the optical program. The low red led disappears. I power off the light. Then I power it on at which point the light goes white-red. The white is on for a fraction of a second and the the bright red immediately turns on and stays on.

What should I do?

Sounds like bounce is set to high. PMing instructions...

 

[phantom357]

I'm not sure what that means... I put the light into programming mode. All seems well. Then I put the light up to the screen and run the optical program. The low red led disappears. I power off the light. Then I power it on at which point the light goes white-red. The white is on for a fraction of a second and the the bright red immediately turns on and stays on.

What should I do?

1. after you have programmed the light, is the program working?
2. if you have bounce enabled, lower the sensitivity

Good luck

 

[phantom357]

Sounds like bounce is set to high. PMing instructions...

beat me to it lol

 

[MarkIAlbert]

1. after you have programmed the light, is the program working?
2. if you have bounce enabled, lower the sensitivity

Good luck

Did not try that. I will. Thanks

 

[MarkIAlbert]

Did not try that. I will. Thanks

That did it. Thanks!