Surefire tactician

BugoutBoys

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Does changing from 800lm to 5lm happen by actually loosening the entire head? Or is there a separate part that rotates? Similar to the V1 or Aviators?
 

BugoutBoys

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aw darn. I feel like that's an inefficient way of doing it? Then you compromise on water resistance I feel like?
 

lamepro

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Not sure if this is the right place but i tried my malkoff MDC 16650 head on my surefire tactician body and loved it! today i dropped it while working on my truck and notice the light changed modes. i was able to repeat this issue by hitting the light on my hand. i contacted gene over at malkoff and he suggested stretching the springs in the head and tail cap which i tried with no improvement. anyone have any ideas how to get this to work properly?
 

LRJ88

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Not sure if this is the right place but i tried my malkoff MDC 16650 head on my surefire tactician body and loved it! today i dropped it while working on my truck and notice the light changed modes. i was able to repeat this issue by hitting the light on my hand. i contacted gene over at malkoff and he suggested stretching the springs in the head and tail cap which i tried with no improvement. anyone have any ideas how to get this to work properly?


When you hit the head, did you hit it with a swinging motion onto your palm or more bezel first into your hand? I'm just wondering, because it could be the tailcap too causing these issues. I'd suggest you try using some aluminium foil or a paperclip or similar to bridge the tail-end contacts and see if you can still replicate it after that as well.
 
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lamepro

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When you hit the head, did you hit it with a swinging motion onto your palm or more bezel first into your hand? I'm just wondering, because it could be the tailcap too causing these issues. I'd suggest you try using some aluminium foil or a paperclip or similar to bridge the tail-end contacts and see if you can still replicate it after that as well.

Yes I hit the head on my palm in a swinging motion and today tried dropping it on the floor (dropped bezel and tailcap down as well as flat and it still changes modes in all variations ) i did also try the same thing with an e1b tailcap with the same results. can you clarify what you mean by bridging the contacts or how should I go about doinf/testing it?
 

LRJ88

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Yes I hit the head on my palm in a swinging motion and today tried dropping it on the floor (dropped bezel and tailcap down as well as flat and it still changes modes in all variations ) i did also try the same thing with an e1b tailcap with the same results. can you clarify what you mean by bridging the contacts or how should I go about doinf/testing it?

With the Surefire tailcaps they don't necessarily always make positive contact all the time, on my tactician i notice flickering while using the standard tailcap, the Lumensfactory Z52 in momentary configuration, and the same with a McClicky. If you remove the tailcap, take a piece of aluminium foil and ball it up so it's slightly larger than the hole in the body, and then jam that ball in there so the light is in constant on and also keeping as much contact surface available on both the body and battery, that should let you rule out the tailcap moving ever so slightly and causing the break in the circuit that'd otherwise trip the mode change.

I've not noticed any issues with the head itself on mine when it comes to any flicker, but with this you can at least see if the tailcap and not the head is the culprit. Otherwise i can only recommend cleaning all threads again so there isn't a dodgy path to begin with and then that gets tripped on impact.
 

lamepro

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With the Surefire tailcaps they don't necessarily always make positive contact all the time, on my tactician i notice flickering while using the standard tailcap, the Lumensfactory Z52 in momentary configuration, and the same with a McClicky. If you remove the tailcap, take a piece of aluminium foil and ball it up so it's slightly larger than the hole in the body, and then jam that ball in there so the light is in constant on and also keeping as much contact surface available on both the body and battery, that should let you rule out the tailcap moving ever so slightly and causing the break in the circuit that'd otherwise trip the mode change.

I've not noticed any issues with the head itself on mine when it comes to any flicker, but with this you can at least see if the tailcap and not the head is the culprit. Otherwise i can only recommend cleaning all threads again so there isn't a dodgy path to begin with and then that gets tripped on impact.


I'll give that a try when I get home. Is it possible to replace the switch inside the tactician tailcap with one that would be more reliable or would I just need an new tailcap all together to get this to work reliably?
 

LRJ88

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I'll give that a try when I get home. Is it possible to replace the switch inside the tactician tailcap with one that would be more reliable or would I just need an new tailcap all together to get this to work reliably?

If it is the tailcap that's causing these issues it's possible that getting another one would solve the issues, what i've found to help somewhat is to put some non-permanent marker pen on the very end of the body right where the body makes contact with the little shelf inside the tailcap, and then twisting it on a couple of times, chances are that the rim isn't completely flat and that you have some high spots that makes it jump around without making solid contact when the flashlight is being subjected to impacts and a few minutes with a flat surface and extremely mild abrasive can give you more surface area for the contacts.
 

lamepro

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If it is the tailcap that's causing these issues it's possible that getting another one would solve the issues, what i've found to help somewhat is to put some non-permanent marker pen on the very end of the body right where the body makes contact with the little shelf inside the tailcap, and then twisting it on a couple of times, chances are that the rim isn't completely flat and that you have some high spots that makes it jump around without making solid contact when the flashlight is being subjected to impacts and a few minutes with a flat surface and extremely mild abrasive can give you more surface area for the contacts.

so i tried the tinfoil in the tailcap and was able to shake the light and get it to change modes. i put the tactican tailcap back on and realized if i shook it forward and back i could also change the modes. also tried the E1B tailcap and was able to get the same results.
 

LRJ88

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so i tried the tinfoil in the tailcap and was able to shake the light and get it to change modes. i put the tactican tailcap back on and realized if i shook it forward and back i could also change the modes. also tried the E1B tailcap and was able to get the same results.

What happens if you wiggle the head a little bit or try to get it to move on top of the body without unscrewing it?
 

lamepro

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What happens if you wiggle the head a little bit or try to get it to move on top of the body without unscrewing it?

head is on tight no movement. i did notice that the surefire tactician head has a plastic spacer type thing around the spring while the MDC only has a spring. i tried shaking the light more this morning and can hear the battery bounce when i do and the light changes moves. so it looks like i need some kind of spacer to strop the battery from moving?
 

LRJ88

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head is on tight no movement. i did notice that the surefire tactician head has a plastic spacer type thing around the spring while the MDC only has a spring. i tried shaking the light more this morning and can hear the battery bounce when i do and the light changes moves. so it looks like i need some kind of spacer to strop the battery from moving?

It's worth trying out, you could try something as simple as some paper rolled around the battery to begin with it keep it in place, especially with the spring on the Malkoff being of a different design than the Tactician head. If it weren't for the risk of shorting it out it could almost be worth trying to make a sort of contact plate on the spring to keep it in contact with the battery better.
 

lamepro

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It's worth trying out, you could try something as simple as some paper rolled around the battery to begin with it keep it in place, especially with the spring on the Malkoff being of a different design than the Tactician head. If it weren't for the risk of shorting it out it could almost be worth trying to make a sort of contact plate on the spring to keep it in contact with the battery better.

so i tried some electrical tape and was able to get it to work as it should but the battery is so snug i have to push it out with a pencil. any other ideas?
 

slumber

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Use a sheet of paper cut to the length of the batteries, and reduce the width rolled around them until the batteries barely slide in. I do this to almost all lights to eliminate rattle. You can put a "Reward If Found" note with your phone number on it.

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LRJ88

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so i tried some electrical tape and was able to get it to work as it should but the battery is so snug i have to push it out with a pencil. any other ideas?

I can only really reiterate what i mentioned before and what Slumber Pass showed as well, making a small sleeve out of paper around the battery to keep it in place there. Try it and see if that helps on yours, if i were to guess that should solve most of your issues right there.
 

Monocrom

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Always seem late to the party. Have one on its way to me in the mail. It's going to be competing with a 600 rated lumens polymer Streamlight model for primary use as my new main EDC light.
 

Fish 14

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Always seem late to the party. Have one on its way to me in the mail. It's going to be competing with a 600 rated lumens polymer Streamlight model for primary use as my new main EDC light.
Good choice, dump that crappy streamlight.
 

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