Features that would make me buy another FourSevens light

Tixx

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Mar 29, 2009
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I'll keep coming back every so often. I just don't understand where 4Sevens is headed any more.
 

eraursls1984

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Nov 19, 2012
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Tallahassee, FL.
  • P1 clicky modded with 219A that is currently used actively at home.
  • a stock version that is not actually used.
  • a brand new lego P2 that is waiting to be modded some day (might also be gifted away as P1)
  • 2 brand new P1s that are waiting to be gifted (or modded, or used as spares, or something else)
  • a black P1 that is not used and has third party electronics. I needed the original light engine once the first try in modding went south...
How is the tint on the one with a 219A? I'm hoping mine will have a rose tint. I've heard some say the 219A have a rose tint and others say it's the same as the 219B, just not as efficient/bright.

What driver did you use on the black P1?
 

Esko

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Nov 17, 2008
Messages
514
How is the tint on the one with a 219A? I'm hoping mine will have a rose tint. I've heard some say the 219A have a rose tint and others say it's the same as the 219B, just not as efficient/bright.

What driver did you use on the black P1?

I used a "350~400mA Regulated LED Driver Circuit Board for DIY Flashlight (1.2~1.5V)", bought from a very big company that was an authorized dealer here some time ago. Cheap and poor efficiency (afaik) but made it a 100+ lumen single mode "Preon". Preon with quotation marks because - of course - the hearth of the light is not from FourSevens any more. I must repeat the request for Foursevens to continue developing high quality 1*AAA flashlights, INCLUDING THOSE LIGHT ENGINES. It is possible to change the led if you are handy and have the tools but you can't change the light engine. Because there are no high quality 1*AAA aftermarket light engines available. The only thing you could do is take it from another expensive high quality flashlight.

About the tints... Well, when white wall hunting and comparing the light to my other flashlights, it looks like it has a faint rosy tint. I also feel it has a little rose hue when using but it might be that I just think so because I have read about it. Or, more likely, it may be because there is a rather strong tint shift with 219A, making the light more rosy when on high. Anyway. I do have Preon P1 (219A from Illumination Supply), Preon A0 CPF edition (219B) and MBI HF (219A). When comparing them side by side on white wall, using approximately similar light levels ("medium"), P1 is slightly rosy white, A0 is rosy-yellowish (warmer) white and HF is slightly greenish-cooler white. P1 and A0 are more similar than P1 and HF (HF looks rosy when on high, btw). So, I believe it really depends on the particular led you have bought. And light levels, too. :shrug:
 
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Joined
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Pacific N.W.
For me, lately, the motivating "feature" has been Discontinued. I keep telling myself I'm not a collector, but that doesn't prove accurate as of late. I just purchased a Quark Turbo QB2A on Panjo. :whistle:

Btw, I'm also l@@king for a mint MMU-X3R. :) Don't tell the lovely Mrs. Gardiner. :sssh:

~ Chance
 

RedLED

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I have to have pitty for the white wall hunters as paint colors are "Tints," lighting is in color temperature. And the amount of different shades of white paint you can buy is staggering. So that you will have a color shift from place to, place. So the posts of photos are not 100% correct, and then figure the camera setting for color balance.

Not to mention lenses have an effect on color, it varies from lens to lens. A Carl Zeiss lens compared to the best Nikon is a world of difference, and I have both. Let's not even think about point and shoot plastic lens or cameras in phones.

The only easy way and with some accuracy, and I say some, is to use a seamless Superwhite background paper roll, or a white balance card. Honestly the white balance cards could be off here and there, the paper won't, so shinning a light at your white walls with hint of rose that you don't know is there, and can't see on the wall tells you the wrong color temperature as the appearance changes with the mix of paint.

You have no idea who picked the white and who mixed it. This is not the correct way.

Even studio white paint needs to be applied in the correct way.

This is basic, the most basic but, they will never give me a stickie on this or the color gels, which I have typed both so many times.

So your white wall is not really white. You have to have something that is verified as white and paint on a wall does not cut it, even fresh white varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and then who knows what happens?

When you cover some tasteless person's purple room, with a company's standard white the tints shift, and the color temperature appearance shifts with it. There is no standard white paint.

It is time the working knowledge of terminology kicks in on this forum.

Hope some of you will understand all white is not the same white. I spent hours talking with the Sherwin Williams people on the Air Force One, paint project for a book I am working on about presidential events and travel, and paint is very, very complex.

Paint has complex physics and color is way beyond what myself and most people understand.
 
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markr6

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Jul 16, 2012
Messages
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Great info RedLed. I can't speak for everyone, but I'm guessing most tint freaks, like me, have their own sort of baseline when they get a new light. For me, it's in the unfinished basement on my white wall. Yes, compared to the stark white primer underneath, the white paint on top is definitely not pure white. But that wall, along with the brown floor, gray couch and some wooden end tables is enough for me to get a idea of how much I like my light. Some appear greenish/yellowish on the wall, and make the brown floor more of a olive greenish/brown color. Those are NO GO!
 

Lumencrazy

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 10, 2015
Messages
369
I have to have pitty for the white wall hunters as paint colors are "Tints," lighting is in color temperature. And the amount of different shades of white paint you can buy is staggering. So that you will have a color shift from place to, place. So the posts of photos are not 100% correct, and then figure the camera setting for color balance.

Not to mention lenses have an effect on color, it varies from lens to lens. A Carl Zeiss lens compared to the best Nikon is a world of difference, and I have both. Let's not even think about point and shoot plastic lens or cameras in phones.

The only easy way and with some accuracy, and I say some, is to use a seamless Superwhite background paper roll, or a white balance card. Honestly the white balance cards could be off here and there, the paper won't, so shinning a light at your white walls with hint of rose that you don't know is there, and can't see on the wall tells you the wrong color temperature as the appearance changes with the mix of paint.

You have no idea who picked the white and who mixed it. This is not the correct way.

Even studio white paint needs to be applied in the correct way.

This is basic, the most basic but, they will never give me a stickie on this or the color gels, which I have typed both so many times.

So your white wall is not really white. You have to have something that is verified as white and paint on a wall does not cut it, even fresh white varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and then who knows what happens?

When you cover some tasteless person's purple room, with a company's standard white the tints shift, and the color temperature appearance shifts with it. There is no standard white paint.

It is time the working knowledge of terminology kicks in on this forum.

Hope some of you will understand all white is not the same white. I spent hours talking with the Sherwin Williams people on the Air Force One, paint project for a book I am working on about presidential events and travel, and paint is very, very complex.

Paint has complex physics and color is way beyond what myself and most people understand.

Even white paper can change the reflected intensity of the various wavelengths. Also, what is an estimated lumen??? Last time I checked they were not selling estimated gallons of gas at the local service station.
 

WarRaven

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Joined
Oct 24, 2013
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Location
Edmonton, Alberta
Without quoting post, great post Redled.
+1

Even with the worst tinted SF, I can still see enough to get around.
OEM should aim to have best output, leave tint hunters to modded lights. Using resources to chase a particular tint of a particular batch is costing OEM and ultimately all of us.
For a select few.
 

markr6

Flashaholic
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
9,258
Without quoting post, great post Redled.
+1

Even with the worst tinted SF, I can still see enough to get around.
OEM should aim to have best output, leave tint hunters to modded lights. Using resources to chase a particular tint of a particular batch is costing OEM and ultimately all of us.
For a select few.

I could see enough in the dark just fine with a light that spewed pink light. Or even a bic lighter! But why would I want to do that? This is a fun obsession just like everything else in life. Would you tell people on a coffee forum "Folgers is coffee and the caffeine makes you feel the same as gourmet coffee. Just drink it and shut up!" ? I certainly hope not, expecially after some people invest $500 in a grinder, $1500 in a coffee maker and $30/lb coffee. Crazy, but that's their obsession and what they choose to enjoy.

I still don't understand why some think tint is number 11 on a list of 1-10 of importance. It's what you SEE. Most here know you can have a good tint and high output, so why not have it all if you can? And I'm talking fairly cheap lights here like the $48 I paid for my EA4W way back when. Great tint. It doesn't have to put companies out of business or jack up the price at all.
 

recDNA

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Joined
Jun 2, 2009
Messages
8,761
I like 2 x CR123A HI CRI lights with deep pocket clip. If 4sevens came out with one I would take a look. I'm not saying they should or they will...just answering the question in the OP.
 

Dr. Strangelove

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The War Room
Another +1 on your post, RedLed. Shame they can't give you your own sticky, but of all the controversial topics that lead to spirited debates here, that topic is probably number one.

I'll probably have my flashoholic status revoked for this, but I'm not terribly concerned with tint. I don't like too green, blue, purple or yellow, but I tolerate a wide range of white tints. To me, a flashlight is primarily a tool to get a job done, and as long as it helps me get that job done, I'm happy. I can say that after carrying a flashlight at work or 24 hours a day for 40 years (and you know what kind of flashlights were available 40 years ago, and how they've improved!).

Having said that, we should all be grateful to the tint snobs, because even though tints aren't where they may want them to be, I'm sure they've had a positive influence to get us where we are today. Without them, who knows what we would have. So don't give up the fight guys, you might just convert me yet.
 
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Joined
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To Each, His Own. :twothumbs

If you enjoy white wall hunting continue to do so. Never let anyone tell you a certain aspect of your hobby isn't important or fun. Additionally, don't worry about the color/tint of the white wall you shine your lights on. :rolleyes: It doesn't need to be calibrated for you to use. :laughing:

Btw, BlackMoon is liquidating their stock of CPF-15th Anniversary Nichia 219B 93CRI ATOM A0's.

~ Chance
 

recDNA

Flashaholic
Joined
Jun 2, 2009
Messages
8,761
Another +1 on your post, RedLed. Shame they can't give you your own sticky, but of all the controversial topics that lead to spirited debates here, that topic is probably number one.

I'll probably have my flashoholic status revoked for this, but I'm not terribly concerned with tint. I don't like too green, blue, purple or yellow, but I tolerate a wide range of white tints. To me, a flashlight is primarily a tool to get a job done, and as long as it helps me get that job done, I'm happy. I can say that after carrying a flashlight at work or 24 hours a day for 40 years (and you know what kind of flashlights were available 40 years ago, and how they've improved!).

Having said that, we should all be grateful to the tint snobs, because even though tints aren't where they may want them to be, I'm sure they've had a positive influence to get us where we are today. Without them, who knows what we would have. So don't give up the fight guys, you might just convert me yet.
If you don't like too much green blue purple or yellow you are a bit of a tint snob too! LOL
 

markr6

Flashaholic
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
9,258
I'm just thinking about some of my hobbies and things I use. If the details didn't matter:

Kayaking: I'd be paddling around in a 6-foot, plain black, thin-as-paper kayak with a plain black paddle that doesn't even come apart. But that would get me around in the water just fine.
Fishing: $10 pole, cheap reel and one spinner bait. That would catch a fish just fine
Knives: $10 walmart special. It sharpens and cuts just fine
Toolbox: just a bunch of $1 plastic totes stacked in the garage. They hold everything and keep them clean and dry. No need for a nice 10-drawer chest. The tools still work the same.

etc. etc.

I don't think it needs to be limited to white wall hunting. Like I said, I test any new light on a variety of subjects. If it looks nice around the house it's good to go. Many of my lights are only used indoors anyway. When I shine a light on something white and it appears WHITE (wow imagine that), great. When it's a greenish/yellow, I know it and just can't help but wish it was white like my other lights.

I certainly hope Foursevens gets back into the neutral whites because I always liked their lights. I just never had the chance to try one.
 

RedLED

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Palm Springs, CA, Beverly Hills, CA, Washington, D
Even white paper can change the reflected intensity of the various wavelengths. Also, what is an estimated lumen??? Last time I checked they were not selling estimated gallons of gas at the local service station.
That is true about the paper, I use my studio white to look at them, mostly for fun, and that is at least made to shine light on.

Where did I make an "estimated lumen" remark?
 
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Lumencrazy

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Mar 10, 2015
Messages
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Sorry for that last comment it it was not supposed to read that way and was not realated to you, I apologize. Just my frustration to all the reviews, and references to estimated lumens.
When we know that in most cases they are being overstated. Finally people are really beginning to question the manufacturers specifications.
 

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