Help Me Choose a "Hiking" Flashlight

[Strauss]

Another vote for the Fenix TK20. Great color redention from the warm emitter, 2 modes of output(good high, 8hr general mode), rugged, and runs on AA's. Oh yeah, and the price is right too

If you were willing to spend a little more, I'll second the Ra Clicky suggestion. Quite possibly the absolute best light out there for the money. A very sophisticated flashlight that I'd trust my life with. One of the most rugged, bomb-proof lights made.

 

[Gunner12]

A quick search will show that the G2L actually has around 3 hour regulated and the rest at "usable light" which IIRC Surefire rates down to 1 lumen.

Here's Fenix's naming scheme.

E = AAA powered
P = CR123 powered
PD = essentially improved designs of the P2D and P3D series. Better tailcap knurling, improved tailcap design with better laynard ring, easier to turn head which is also an anti-roll hexagon shape, lower low, medium, and high, smoother talicap switch. Longer runtime on low, medium, and high.
L = AA or AAA powered
LD = essentially improved designs of the L1D/L2D/L0D. Better tailcap knurling, improved tailcap design with better laynard ring, easier to turn head which is also an anti-roll hexagon shape, lower low, medium, and high, smoother tailcap switch. Longer runtime on low, medium, and high.
T = CR123 powered with a forward clickie, two mode, tighten for high, loosen for low, uses a Cree XR-E Q5 LED (for now; when they add more models, this might change)

0 = 1 AAA powered, for the E series, 1 5mm LED, currently the Nichia CS, all twisties.
01 = 1 AAA powered, E series, multicolor anodizing, 1 5mm Nichia GS. 1 AAA powered LD series. Cree XR-E Q5 and three modes only, medium-low-high. Reflector is also improved and PWM is faster.
1 = 1 battery, for the E series, 1 Nichia Power LED, for the P series, a twistie. For the T series (T1) a 2 stage forward clickie light powered by 2 CR123 or RCR123 batteries with a clip. Uses a Cree XR-E Q5 LED in a textured reflector. Built to have thicker walls then the E and L series lights.
2 = 2 battery powered or for the P series, 1 CR123 with a clickie.
3 = For the P series, 2 CR123 powered.
10 = TK10 or LD10 --- TK10 an "improved" version of the T1 with a removable grip ring, aluminum bezel, and removable clip. Performance is not changed --- LD10 "improved version of the L1D, Look at LD to see what improved over the L1D.
11 = TK11, an "improved" version of the TK10 and T1 with a smooth reflector and the ability to accept 18650 batteries.
20 = T20 or LD20 or PD20 --- a 2 AA powered light similar to the other T series but has a neutral white LED instead of a cool white one. Has a smooth reflector, a rubber sleeve on the body tube for grip, and a removable clip. --- LD20, "improved" version of the L2D has body knurling. Look at LD to see what changes were made over the L2D --- PD20, "improved" version of the P2D, Look at PD to see what changed.
30 = PD30, "improved" version of the P3D, look at PD to see what changed.

+ = Special stainless steel run, a small run prototype that Fenix sold
P = "Premium" Luxeon I, V2.0 means 2 modes, Luxeon
S = Two mode (tighten for high, loosen for low) Luxeon I, Type II andodizing
T = Two mode (tighten for high, loosen for low) Luxeon III, V2.0 means Rebel 80, twice the output
D = Digital, Multimode
CE = Cree XR-E LED, newer and at least twice as efficient as the Luxeon I/III LEDs. For the same power, it puts out twice or more output
Rebel 80/100 = Luxeon Rebel 80/100 used, usually has a warmer tint
No designation = Luxeon I or III

If there is a thing after the CE, that is to designate the Bin of the Cree XR-E LED used. Q5 means it uses the Cree XR-E Q5 LED. No designation after the CE means it uses the P3 or P4, depending on date of manufacturing.

The Civictor V1 is a 1 AA twistie with Type II anodizing. There was a multimode stainless steel model made.

There was a special Titanium version of the L0D made. It was called the L0D Ti. There was also a Christmas version(red type II anodizing with Christmas decorations) called the L0D SE. There is also a Q4 version. There is was also a stainless steel version of the LD01.

 

[kelmo]

I like the Surefire L2. The original "Wall of Light." The 15 lumen low is perfect for navigating a dark trail. With 10+ hours of runtime you will only need to bring one set of spare cells. The high is truley impressive. It will easily illuminate targets at 50m. It uses the same tailswitch as the A2.

The latest version of the L1 is pretty good too. It is a thrower. It has an excellant balance between runtime and output. The 2 output levels really compliment each other. If you value throw over spill, get this one.

 

[Zeruel]

For lights within your budget,

Fenix LD20 - Efficient although arguably less than the former L2D.
General Mode: 9 lumens (71hrs) / 47 lumens (13hrs) / 94 lumens (5hrs) / SOS
Turbo Mode: 180 lumens (2hrs) -> Strobe
36 days of survival use (2 continuous hours per day on the lowest setting)
Digitally Regulated for Constant Brightness

EagleTac P100A2 - Latest offering from EagleTac. Shows improvements over predecessor.
Turbo Mode: Constant 195 Lumens* regulates 1.8 hours to 50%
General Mode: Constant 55 Lumens* regulates 8 hours to 50%
Digitally Regulated for Constant Brightness

Solarforce L2 - 300 lumens, affordable and lego-able with Surefire
Continuous runtime: 3~4 hours (manufacturer rated)
Digitally Regulated for Constant Brightness

Zebralight H50-Q5 - Maybe you want to look into this as a good investment for hiking.
Low: 2.6 lm for 3.5 days
Medium: 13 lm for 19 hr
High: 66 lm for 2 hr 20 min

 

[shakeylegs]

Hi Liquidspaceman,

The same question is what first brought me to CPF.

I do a lot of backpacking. For me, minimizing weight is always primary. Second, I look for maximum useable output and runtime from the lightest reliable light/lights. As has been mentioned, fenix lights are a nice trade-off between weight, price, output and reliability. A twisty like the fenix P1D is my general go-to backcountry light. Long runtimes on low (sufficient light for trails at night) and very bright on high (for scouting routes). The single AA fenix lights are also nice but not quite as bright on high. If you are willing to sacrifice a little weight, the 2 AA fenix lights have superior runtimes with great output.

Headlamps have also been mentioned and I agree they are very useful (especially for camp chores and climbing). In addition to a hand held light which I prefer for hiking, I almost always bring along a headlamp. I've used the zebralight H50 since it was introduced and have been very happy with it. When I need ultra long runtimes, I bring along a PT Aurora (3AAA) which seems to run all summer long on one set of batteries. The Aurora is a little more useful for hiking while the Zebra's wide angle makes it great in camp (though your camping buddies may not appreciate the wide angled beam).

It's probably wise to standardize battery types though I have yet to do so. The fenix P1D and the zebra H30 both use cr123 batteries while the fenix L1D and the zebra H50 each use a single AA.

Regardless of the flashlight and headlight combo I may bring, I never leave the car without at least one Photon in my backpack or pocket. On super ultralight trips in "known" terrain, a Photon is the only light I'll bring.

Good luck with your search and welcome to CPF.

 

[Ny0ng1]

:welcome:

I found myself to be leaning away from AA and going to single cell CR123A. 2cell CR123A usually is not necessary in the wild as they tend to be too bright. Exception on this are like SureFire E2L mentioned above where it opt for long runtime instead of brightness. It is too complicated and too diverse to have both battery options for EDC or backpacking / hiking etc.
I suggest you choose 1 battery option and start looking for the options or you'll go nuts from the choices we are offering here :nana:

I do, however, found AAA to be perfect in complimenting my CR123A lights. They are used typically for long term lighting during walk and trails. The small size and availability of AAA are always welcomed. My AAA lights are keychain lights like Fenix E01, L0D or ArcAAA, etc, and also my headlight Princeton Tec EOS headlamp. All of these AAA powered lights should cost $50 or less.

My current EDC is Surefire L1, cost about $150 new or $90-$100 shipped from the marketplace (used but usually very good condition). It is also suitable for hiking in my opinion as it has dual output 10lumens/12hrs(or 10hrs, cant recall) and 65lumens/1.5hr. The beam is throwy due to its optic design.

A CR123A powered light I can probably recommend within your budget would be those from Nitecore like EX10 or Fenix P1D. I dont have experience with Olight, Jetbeam, Liteflux and Eagletac but they seem to be in the same league with Fenix/Nitecore. :shrug:

good luck! :thumbsup:

 

[Egsise]

Another vote for the Fenix TK20. Great color redention from the warm emitter, 2 modes of output(good high, 8hr general mode), rugged, and runs on AA's. Oh yeah, and the price is right too

+1 to Fenix TK20

 

[Owen]

If I were buying a light for hiking/camping, it would be a Zebralight H30 or H50, depending on what one other light I would take (gotta have a backup).
I have a H30 on order, since CR123A and R123 are what I use on a day-to-day basis, but if it had been strictly for use in the woods, I'd have gotten the H50 as it's a 1xAA light like my Ultra-G.
I wouldn't even consider carrying most of the lights that I normally use(except the Arc AAA-P on my keys) in the woods, as even the flood beams are brighter than I'd want in the absence of ambient light.

 

[Hondo]

I will add to the recommendations for the Fenix LD10/L1D or if you don't mind the larger size, the LD20/L2D. The 2XAA size runs longer, of course, but being more efficient due to the higher input voltage of two cells which requires less boost to reach the LED's required input voltage, it will run more than twice as long as the single cell light at the same brightness. It is also capable of higher output on turbo mode, the 1XAA has almost no difference between high and turbo.

I also have all three models of the Zebra lights and love them. I hike at night a lot, too. But I don't like hiking at night with the Zebra lights. The reason is that they tend to give the terrain a very 2-D appearance, and I miss holes and bumps that I would pick up with a more conventional beam. The Zebras are awesome for any kind of tasks you are working on from home/auto repairs to reading in bed, and navigating indoors. I would rather have one than no light when hiking out of the woods at night, but I never choose one for the purpose. Just my opinion (and Gunga's too, as well as a few other CPF'ers).

On the other hand, headlamps are generally a good idea, and you may want to look at something like a Streamlight Argo HP, which runs long and bright on either two CR123's or a single 17670 rechargable. It has two levels with a nice mix of throw and spill, and I use my older Luxeon model frequently for night hiking. I usually hike with it on low, which will run about 20 hours, and it will still do about 6 hours on high. The newer models are even brighter with the new generation LED's. Not much over $30, depending where you buy it, I was able to walk into a fire/police supply store and buy it locally.

 

[Flying Turtle]

Of the lights I have the Fenix L2D or the Surefire L1 would probably be my choices. That's based on your need for 3-4 hours of good light. I think the L1 on low most of the time would be sufficient. The L2D should have plenty of juice even on medium, while low might be enough some of the time.

Geoff

 

[Liquidspaceman]

Thanks for your opinions everyone.

 

[Mdinana]

Hey
I grew up in the OC, hiked Angeles, Santa Monica, the Sierras, Joshua Tree, etc... usually with a mag

I just got a SF E2L this week, and I LOVE it. Absolutely head over heels. It's amazing. The low is plenty bright, and I think the new run time is near 100 hours on low, with 11-ish on high. I bought a diffuser with it, and it's got a beautiful light - the backyard lights up entirely with the diffuser on. Literally, no spots not hit by light. It's so good, I'm taking it to Alaska, even though it's never gone camping with me yet. The price right now is $99 on the MP thread by Optics HQ.

But, I understand budgets too! I have a Fenix P2D. It doesn't come with a clip, but the clip from a Gerber Infinity fits perfectly. It's got several brightness levels, light enough to fit on a ballcap brim (with a clip, of course), small enough to slide into your change pocket on jeans, just barely. It's nice that the high/low are one click to access; you just have to depend on whether the head is tightened or not. I think using it on low/hi (kind of like the E2L) would be more than adequate.

For a very similar light in brightness, the Lumapower Incendio is comparable to the P2D. The Fenix has the strobe level and 1 or 2 more brightness levels. The Incendio is just barely smaller, 3 levels, with a good low and a decent high. The downside is that it's set up as more of a floody light - I don't find it good for shining beyond about 20 meters.

I'm sure I'm not helping at all, am I?

 

[groo01]

GRoo here
How about a Streamlight 4AA,
4AA batteries simple on off good throw 42 lum for 4 hrs and waterproof
for $40.00?????

 

[Illum]

oooh, good choice, forgot about the Streamlight Propolymer:green:

Its a luxeon light, but with a long smooth parabolic reflector it has good throw, decent spill, and excellent runtime [at the time]
the Propolymer is exactly what it sounds like, its a plastic light, but a very tough plastic light for its size. the 4AA is oval shaped which aids with gripping, lanyard is included and the switch is on the tail end, forward clicky switch.

The light can be used with L91s [lithium AA] for longer runtimes or NiMH when your not in the woods. Alkalines may not work well in cold temperatures so pack what you think is best for you. DO NOT use 14500 li-ions.

4AA version [I have one of these...somewhere] has a runtime of 3hour 40 min to 50% [source here]
3C version, runtime: 7 hours to 50%, 3C might be a bit bulky if space is your premium. [source here]

While the luxeon is considered "dim" by todays standards...it should provide sufficient light in total darkness

Streamlight ProPolymer Luxeon is not the same as Streamlight ProPolymer LED, LED = cluster 5mms, the beam profile isn't suited for throw.
There are variations for regulator and "division 1" which is suited for explosive/hazardous work areas, and are usually a wee bit more expensive.
I bought mine at www.brightguy.com, direct links below
Streamlight ProPolymer 4AA LUXEON Div 1 $40.45 here
Streamlight ProPolymer 3C LUXEON Div 1 $45.45 here
Streamlight ProPolymer 4AA Luxeon $31.45 here
Streamlight ProPolymer 3C LUXEON $42.45 here

Note that all Luxeon lights suffer "luxeon lottery" where the tint of your LED could be anywhere from purple to green, and there is no on the spot identification to tell the difference unless you power it up. With CREEs we've been somewhat pampered with White and Neutral white tints...

 

[rotncore]

I try to standardize on batteries as much as I can. I'll echo what others have said about headlights - if it's only one light, make it a headlight - or for versatility a light that can be clipped to a hat with a lanyard to prevent loss.

I use CR123s for most of my lights, and it is my standard. Lithiums work better in cold weather, and CR123s are cheaper in bulk than AA lithiums I've been able to find. It also helps that my MSR Miox water purifier uses them too. If they made a GPS that was CR123 I could go CR123 wholesale, but alas they don't. I also like single cell lights as I don't need to be careful worring about popping cells in tandem with different charges.

Zebralights for camp task lighting, and Surefire L1 for handheld would be my 2 choices, maybe the E1B if weight/space is at a major premium. Note both these handhelds are hat clippable.

 

[Hooked on Fenix]

How about a 2008 Inova T1? You have the XO on your list and it uses an older, more inefficient K2 l.e.d. The new T1 uses a TFFC K2 that is 2-3 times more efficient. The T1 runs over 4 hours at 100 lumens regulated. It is about the perfect size for fitting in the hand and has a checkered pattern grip so it doesn't slip out of your hand. The TFFC K2 l.e.d. tends to have a warm tint but your mileage may vary. It costs $50. It is a very tough and well built light. It takes 2 123A batteries. If you were considering a cheaper Surefire light like a G2L or a 6PL, the Inova T1 gives you similar build quality, a better l.e.d. (better tint and similar efficiency), hard anodizing, an anti-reflective coated glass lens, and a better thermal path for heatsinking. It's cheaper than both Surefires as well.

Personally, I like to carry fatter lights like the T1 on hikes (prevents me dropping it) and take slimmer lights like my Fenix P2D Q5 on backpacking trips because it's lighter, more compact, and has multiple levels for long runtimes. I also take a headlight for hiking or backpacking. A 50 lumen Princeton Tec EOS headlight with a Rebel l.e.d. has the best beam pattern with useful high (50 lumens), medium (20 lumens), and low (5 lumens) settings.

 

[ZMZ67]

+1 on the INOVA T1(2008).The T1 provides good flood while still offering some throw.If you want more throw the INOVA T2(2008) is a good choice.The T2 is a little brighter than the T1 but you sacrifice some runtime.The T2 is also slimmer than the T1 with a more conventional flashlight design(similar to the XO).The X5 makes a nice back-up for these lights as it uses the same batteries and will operate at a reduced output on low batteries.I would also advise against the XO as it is likely using an older less efficient LED.
Remember, two is one-one is none.It is definately in your interest to have a good quality back-up.

 

[Hooked on Fenix]

Did not know the G2 only had an hour runtime, that's definitely off my list at this point then.

I thought you should know that the Surefire G2 is an incandescent (bulb) light that costs around $35. Your original post stated that it was $60-$65. The G2 at that price is the G2L, the same light but with an l.e.d. which gives it better runtime and slightly more brightness. The G2L lasts quite a bit longer than an hour. Personally, I think the 2008 Inova T1 would be the right light for your needs. It has 4+ hour runtime, is bright enough to light up the woods, it's waterproof, will survive drops, and has a good grip so you don't drop it often. I just didn't want you to eliminate your options due to a misunderstanding and false information.

 

[yellow]

I would definitly not take any single cell light with "normal" chemistry (Ni-Cd, Ni-Mh).
For small size You pay with runtime under 1 hour, at full.

Also, but that surely is just my individual thinking, I would not even think about CR123 lights.
1st they cost a kingdom here, then its adding to unnecessary waste with real dangerous material.
The only real plus is, that one can get working cells in shops, while 18650s f.e. must be brought by user.

Imho someone actually using a light, must go the rechargeable way
(a plus is, that Ni-Mhs are able to give the current actual lights need, something alkalines are not able to)

so:
skip L1D, LD10 ... for being single cell Ni-Mh
good Ni-Mh/Ni-Cd charger and cells already present: L2D/LD20/TK20, any other 2 AA light from a respected maker mentionned
no chager present: light with a single 18650 Li-Ion cell + charger + spares!
--> less cost than 2 AA route, considerably more spice in cell than 2 CR123 light (at same size!).
Jetbeam Jet III models are really good, as well as other lights already mentionned


PS: there is a version of the Streamlight Argo HP with updated emitter?
Now, that were THE perfect Headlamp to recommend. use it with a single 17650, or mod it to run on an 18650, like Your handheld lights (difficult mod!)
(I have the Luxeon version, emitter swapped to a Seoul and reflector modded to run better with this new led)

 

[Phaselock]

I recommend Fenix L2D or LD20. I'm very happy with my LD20 with diffusertip. Always with me on hiking trips :thumbsup: