Kestrel, PM sent.As I am perhaps one of the most faithful bearers of the 'Z'-series banner; I do rather treasure my Nitrolon G2Z, and am finally moving again on my semi-secret Nitrolon 'Z' project, lol.
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Nitrolon is underrated
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the0dore3524
Flashlight Enthusiast
The counterfeit ones ship from China and have a generic picture with shoddy descriptions. They generally run about ~$20. With respect to the lights themselves, I've no idea. Maybe someone else can comment on that, but I'd rather not risk the cash lol.
Nitrolon new and old are some of my favorite Surefire lights. The new G2X Pro 600 with my favorite G2 yellow with a Malkoff 219bL V2 and McClicky switch.
Woods Walker
The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
Here are some danger signs.
Surefire G2 OD Nitrolon Single Output white led light CREE LED 123A Flashlight
Surefire G2 OD Nitrolon Single Output white led light CREE LED 123A Flashlight
FREE ePacket delivery from China
Jose Marin
Enlightened
So i have one of those 20 dollar china g2's and it works just fine. I use it a lot actually and i like how it's light enough to wear around neck. Im too nervous to pay more for an authentic one because i have no clue what im looking for. I too would like to know if there is a visual clue on the light itself. Here's my bejing special with mcclicky, or derlin bezel, elzetta lanyard ring, sf lanyard and malkoff m61ll
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At the very least I like to have a G2 with a P60 lamp assembly in a vehicle as a backup to my EDC. As mentioned, doesn't get cold in the winter and snow melts as soon as it hits the lens. As P60's tend to vary a little from throwy to floody, I tend to keep a throwy one in there. It's a hell of a light for what they originally cost. I do replace the lexan lens with hardened mineral glass.
archimedes
Flashaholic
Would rather not get into a detailed discussion of the specifics here, which typically serves to just make the copies harder to detect in the future, but yes there are some visual clues present.
I used to think "fakers aint looking here for clues" but after struggling to find a real copy of the LED Lenser P7, I pointed out 3 out of 5 flaws in a thread here.... and don't you know about 6 months later (after reporting fake sellers to Amazon) I took a chance.... and my next one was a fake with those 3 flaws corrected!!! The other two flaws were still there.
archimedes
Flashaholic
yep :shakehead
I was fooled by a Surefire Z48 clicky switch clone a few years back when I was selling it in the classifieds. I didn't look at it close enough and I took it back from the buyer because I realized it was a clone by the evidence provided. This stuff is getting out of hand nowadays.
Unicorn
Flashlight Enthusiast
I like them within their limits. The negatives aren't huge for most things though.
They are thicker than an aluminum body because while polymer can be as strong or stronger by weight than aluminum, it isn't usually by volume. So you need a thicker amount to be as strong. And as stiff. Not really a big deal though unless it's a tiny AA or AAA light.
They don't make good heat sinks so the LED might be a bit too warm. Also not sure how they might handle the heat during extended use of a high powered light. Probably great for low to moderate light, but I'm thinking several hundreds of lumens for an hour.
How brittle are they in the cold? Enough to break if dropped when it's say, 0 degrees F? I haven't had the misfortune of dropping any of mine when it's below freezing so I've no clue.
It is nice to not have to worry about your light freezing to your hand. Or on the other end, burning your hand in the hot sun.
For smaller lights it's a great choice. If you get into something as big as say a Magcharger or Streamlight Ultrastinger the weight difference is smaller since most of the weight is in the battery and not the body anymore. A two cell 123 or single cell 16580 definitely benefits from the weight reduction though.
They are thicker than an aluminum body because while polymer can be as strong or stronger by weight than aluminum, it isn't usually by volume. So you need a thicker amount to be as strong. And as stiff. Not really a big deal though unless it's a tiny AA or AAA light.
They don't make good heat sinks so the LED might be a bit too warm. Also not sure how they might handle the heat during extended use of a high powered light. Probably great for low to moderate light, but I'm thinking several hundreds of lumens for an hour.
How brittle are they in the cold? Enough to break if dropped when it's say, 0 degrees F? I haven't had the misfortune of dropping any of mine when it's below freezing so I've no clue.
It is nice to not have to worry about your light freezing to your hand. Or on the other end, burning your hand in the hot sun.
For smaller lights it's a great choice. If you get into something as big as say a Magcharger or Streamlight Ultrastinger the weight difference is smaller since most of the weight is in the battery and not the body anymore. A two cell 123 or single cell 16580 definitely benefits from the weight reduction though.
I've seen this logic used for other items too on forums and I personally believe the only way keeping quiet helps counterfeiters is by keeping consumers in the dark. It doesn't hold water. You don't think that they buy an original to work from?? They can analyze a real one in hand six ways to Sunday and make it perfect if they want. They know the flaws - you're not giving them any revolutionary insight. But why spend the extra money to correct the tiny things if it's close enough to fool most people as is? Sad but true.
Regarding the durability of the Nitrolon lights here is a thread I started many years ago about a torture test I did on a G2L. The pix aren't working now, might have them around somewhere, but you still get the story. [emoji6]
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ived-a-60-Foot-Fall-to-Concrete!-(With-Pics)&
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ived-a-60-Foot-Fall-to-Concrete!-(With-Pics)&
I think that, when things are pointed out, they correct them. If they are not publicly pointed out, they probably don't bother. That's just my take on it.
archimedes
Flashaholic
I don't want to drag this thread further off topic with the counterfeiting issue, but I'll just briefly respond here.
Yes, of course, whoever is ripping off copies has the resources to buy an authentic original item to reverse engineer it.
They presumably want to fool the most people possible, yet create the cheapest and shoddiest product able to do so.
These goals are at odds, though.
So by maximin game theory, only the more "obvious" flaws get "corrected" because those cost sales, and changes cost money.
Publishing those flaws makes it easier for others to detect fakes, and thereby increases pressure for corresponding changes in later iterations ... :sigh:
Yes, that's just it, stated more succinctly.
Very well. I still believe hoarding information does a disservice to the community, and educating and protecting other enthusiasts should be the primary goal. In any case, I agree we are off topic and ought to move on.
How about that G2L launch, hey? [emoji2]
How about that G2L launch, hey? [emoji2]
Nitrolon this is an excellent, warm material. Perhaps it would be cool worthwhile to make
a whole-aluminum flashlight, but with a thin ~ 2 mm coating of nitrolone.
This will save as a good heat sink for powerful light, and it will be warm for hand in winter,
better grip, less noticeable scratches.
a whole-aluminum flashlight, but with a thin ~ 2 mm coating of nitrolone.
This will save as a good heat sink for powerful light, and it will be warm for hand in winter,
better grip, less noticeable scratches.
Winner, winner, chicken dinner...
Tan G2L
With a nicely colored beam
No blue, no gray, no green, no purple....
Tan G2L
With a nicely colored beam
No blue, no gray, no green, no purple....
scout24
Flashaholic
Hey Bykfixer- PM incoming. (See how that worked? )
)
