The Malkoff Front Porch

[NutSAK]

Yes. Agree. 650 does seem low.800 might work.

That's what I was thinking, and of course that still doesn't explain your 1A. Hopefully Gene can "shed some light" on the subject for you.

 

[INFRNL]

Okay, I found some old notes on the M61W previous gen before the driver update.

4.16v@840ma on high @ 300lm/ 10ma on low @ 5.86lm, 6.12v@700ma @325lm on high/ [email protected]

The M61w is actually a fairly efficient emitter. You would think they are less efficient, but they are really good.


Depending on what data you have from a runtime test would show if the module is in fact drawing more now, by running a new test to compare. 1A is in-line with M61@6v and probably the current M61N; however the M61N is more efficient than CW @6v.

I don't doubt you one bit but we are definitely testing the M61W??? Surely the tint would be obvious but I just want to make sure we aren't overlooking anything. I ran a test on M61W when I thought it was M61N. It seemed warm for an N but it didn't dawn on me until later.

 

[NH Lumens]

My two EDC lights. The 1CR123/VME contains a M61L and a 16340 cell, which I find provides a good balance of output vs. runtime for my general illumination needs, and rides in the bottom of a front pocket. The "Light Saber" Lego is my SD-dedicated light and rides in a horizontal belt carrier.

 

[TomK85]

My two EDC lights. The 1CR123/VME contains a M61L and a 16340 cell, which I find provides a good balance of output vs. runtime for my general illumination needs, and rides in the bottom of a front pocket. The "Light Saber" Lego is my SD-dedicated light and rides in a horizontal belt carrier.

Very nice combo with the Hyper Throw!! Do you know if a Hyperthrow will fit on a MDC body? Or just the 18650 E-series body from Malkoff

 

[NH Lumens]

Very nice combo with the Hyper Throw!! Do you know if a Hyperthrow will fit on a MDC body? Or just the 18650 E-series body from Malkoff

Thank-you!

The E2HT will fit most Surefire E-series bodies, the Malkoff 18650 E-series body, the MDC 1CR123 bodies (using a 16340 cell) and the MDC 16650 body. Other options includes the Oveready E35 and E70 bodies, though the anodizing will need to be removed from head threads.

I find the above Lego (powered by a 16650) to strike a good balance between size and runtime, and retain good ergonomics.

 

[TomK85]

That's great to hear! Do you know if there is big difference in out for the 16340/16650 vs 18650 due to the higher voltage?

 

[NH Lumens]

The 16340, 16650 and 18650 Li-ion cells are all 4.2V off the charger. The difference is in the mAh (capacity) rating, the larger cells providing longer runtime.

To add to my previous post, a Malkoff MDC AA body could also be used with a 14500 Li-ion cell.

 

[TomK85]

The 16340, 16650 and 18650 Li-ion cells are all 4.2V off the charger. The difference is in the mAh (capacity) rating, the larger cells providing longer runtime.

To add to my previous post, a Malkoff MDC AA body could also be used with a 14500 Li-ion cell.

Tx! Thought that the 16340 and 16650 were 3.7v

 

[INFRNL]

They are all 3.7v nominal but 4.15-4.2v charged

 

[CREEXHP70LED]

Anyone know the difference in approximate run time with the 16650 MDC and the CR123A MDC bodies/cells? I have been looking at these since they came out. I am thinking the 16340 cell just wont be enough, but the 16650 should work pretty well. Maybe 20 minutes 16340, and 45 minutes 16650?

 

[NH Lumens]

Maybe 20 minutes 16340, and 45 minutes 16650?

Yes, I think that's a reasonable estimate. Mine shines on a 16650. ;-)

 

[Jimmyboots]

Maybe one of you guys here can help with some advise.

I've been trying to use a 1st gen AA MDC body with a BG v.2 and can't get it to work. I've sanded the threads down a bit with 1k sandpaper to remove some of the ano but maybe haven't removed enough.

Anything else I could try to get this setup running?

Some photos

https://i.imgur.com/jDvi0qa.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xyctits.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/y5MaITn.jpg

 

[thermal guy]

Just for the hell of it remove the O-ring and see if that works.

 

[NH Lumens]

Easy-Off in the yellow can to fully remove anodizing from the threads;

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCZNbozXHbo

I would tape off the body leaving just the threads exposed. Spray the easy-Off on a Q-tip and keeping applying to the threads. Rinse with cold water once the anodizing is off.[/FONT]

 

[thermal guy]

Hey. Weren't we supposed to have some new Malkoff lights headed our way by now?

 

[CREEXHP70LED]

Yes, I think that's a reasonable estimate. Mine shines on a 16650. ;-)

Thanks, I will be going with the 16650 MDC with that E2HT.

 

[dotCPF]

I just figured out how to get three low levels with the M361 219bv3 and the H/L ring!

There ARE 3 low levels, but it's a bit odd how to get them. You must first access the a regular brightness mode, doesn't seem to matter which one, or if you cycle through all or quickly just enter one.

Then when you twist to the "Low" bank, it will start on a super low, go a bit brighter, then a bit brighter still. The kicker is it stays on the highest "low" until you go re-enter (for lack of a better word) a regular "high" mode. This even appears to work when you have the light on, twist to re-enter "high" and twist off back to "low" it should enter the lowest brightness mode.

I wonder if this behavior applies to other M361 modules that did not get the "3 lows" with a H/L?


Shoutout to INFRNL for getting me 4x H/L rings. Now all my MD2s have em!

 

[thermal guy]

🤔🤔 ya I'll stick with my elzetta hi/lo tailcap. No idea why but it works perfect every-time with that.

 

[dotCPF]

Will an Elzetta tailcap thread to an MD series light?!

 

[Jimmyboots]

Thanks. I tried with out the oring and nothing. I have the blue bottle easy off which did not remove the ano. I will pick some of the yellow bottle stuff up this weekend and give it a try.


thanks for the input guys.