The Official Malkoff Junkie thread - Part 2

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RI Chevy

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Any of the M61 variants can be powered by 2-AA's. The voltage is so low that is starts off in DD and stays there. Very slow draw that goes with the very low voltage.
 

MartinDWhite

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Any of the M61 variants can be powered by 2-AA's. The voltage is so low that is starts off in DD and stays there. Very slow draw that goes with the very low voltage.

The light output from 2xAA on the M61 is the reason I started making the delrin sleeves to hold 2xAA in an MD3 body I have since made (and sell) a bunch of different spacers/sleeves for holding batteries. The ability to run such a variety of power sources makes the M61/MD3 a great all around light.

2x18500
3xCR123A
1x18650 - with spacer
1x18500 - with spacer
2xCR123A - with spacer
1xCR123A - with spacer
2xAA - with sleeve
1xAA (M61L ) - with sleeve/spacer
 

ledmitter_nli

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I tried. It lighted up but very dim. Battery measured 1.26voltsX2.

My M61WLL is pushing at least the same number of lumens (70) with the two AA's as it would normally output regulated on an 18650.

I'll do a light meter lux test between the lith and alkaline after these AA's (yep still going) run its course.

Can you estimate how many lumens you are seeing?
 

diesel79

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I just saw the email as well. I like the pure white tint of the standard version out right now I don't think I will jump on one of these. It is tempting though.
 

Cerealand

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Well, decision time. Neutral Wildcat 4000k or...... Torchlab Neutral 4750k triple drop-in.
 

Grizzman

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At least you didn't recommend 'Get Both!'.

But that is a good answer.

When the neutral HD came out, I told myself, "You really don't need the neutral one. The cool version works great.". I didn't listen.

I don't think I'll be hearing that statement this time.

Grizz
 

ledmitter_nli

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41 hours later and the Malkoff M61WLL has settled down to about 2 - 3 lumens using 2X AA alkalines.

Here's what it looks like the way I see it in a diffuser. The diffuser is about a half-stop over exposed, but everything else is what I see. It will probably go on trickling like this for a awhile. Good to know AA alkalines can deliver this kind of reliability. These are the Costco (Kirkland brand) alkalines.

2dul5zd.jpg


And what I see pointed at some decorative foliage. This pic is nearly right on, the spill being about a half stop underexposed.

w9afci.jpg


I love this drop in. :D

Edit: Here's a beam shot next to a ZebraLight H51C (on L1 2.8 lumens) on the right:

I had to adjust the exposure so the hot spot appears as I see it. The spill however is underexposed now by about 1.5 stops. Foliage pic above shows a better approximation of what the spill looks like. "Approx" because the lights are about 5 feet further from the wall here.

ejwvms.jpg


Example of exposure stops if you don't know:

1zbw76e.jpg


Push the hold button and a flash photo of the lux meter reading so far at 41 hours. It's ticking down a point after about 14 seconds. Uh oh. :D

dbjd74.jpg
 
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BenChiew

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My M61WLL is pushing at least the same number of lumens (70) with the two AA's as it would normally output regulated on an 18650.

I'll do a light meter lux test between the lith and alkaline after these AA's (yep still going) run its course.

Can you estimate how many lumens you are seeing?

It looks more like 10lumens to me. Surely no where near what you observed of 70lumens.
 

ledmitter_nli

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It looks more like 10lumens to me. Surely no where near what you observed of 70lumens.

This pic shows what I see with two fresh AA alkalines. The diffuser is about 2 stops over exposed. It's not a bright white like this. Everything else is nearly right on.

sw6yvd.jpg
 
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cerbie

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Cool does everything better, except possibly color rendering. More lumens and lux, so more light and more throw. Maybe it's only a little in this case, but it's there.
It's always good to be able to see what you're looking at, though. More throw into a patch of mottled brown/gray isn't all that helpful, and more lux won't do much better. Having more light in the wavelengths of colors you are looking at helps a ton.
And if the neutral emitter is not a hi-cri, or doesn't have a higher cri rating than the cool one, then it won't even do colors better.
All current neutral Cree XP-G and XP-G2 LEDs have higher typical CRI than cool white, and you could order specific tint bins to increase that further. XM-L2 also seem to be that way, but not XM-L.

CCT and CRI are quite coupled for many actual LEDs out there on the market, today. How much more CRI, on average, you might end up with, though, depends on factors we don't necessarily know. FI, are the OR or Malkoff-store neutrals H1 bin? If so, that could put any tint snobbery accusations to rest. An L1 neutral XP-G2 will have slightly greater CRI, on average, while an H1 will have higher CRI, guaranteed. I have not seen this disclosed either way, though, to date, merely the CCT.
 
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