greenLED
Flashaholic
nightrider, how are you sealing the front of the light against the elements? Is it just the optic sitting flush against the square aluminum or are you using an acrylic window in front of the optics?
Triple Cree XR-E Bike Light
- Thread starter nightrider
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nightrider
Enlightened
KWillets said:
I did have to trim some of the base of the lens holder to fit over my solder globs on the surface of the star. They need to fit tightly over the Cree emitter to get a good focus.
nightrider
Enlightened
greenLED said:
It's not sealed as well as I would like. The optic holder is just a very little bit loose inside the aluminum square. I could put an acrylic lens over the front, as I have with my past lights, but I'd like to figure out a way to just seal around the front edge of the optics. I'll probably use some silicone caulk, but I'm trying to figure out a way to do it without it looking crappy. I've been thinking about some way to mask off the lens to form a good-looking silicone seal. I don't think I can run a decent bead of caulking that small without some kind of form or mold.
KWillets
Newly Enlightened
Masking tape is the typical way to get a good caulk line. Peel it off before it sets.
Timson
Enlightened
Love the refinements you've made to the design of your housing..Very professional looking. :rock:
Noticed your shot showing the different tints from the emitters.
Were they all supposed to be the same bin with regards to tint.
Any plans to do a Quad light to compete directly with the HID boys? :naughty:
I can feel a Quad 'Q2' with McR19's calling
Tim.
Noticed your shot showing the different tints from the emitters.
Were they all supposed to be the same bin with regards to tint.
Any plans to do a Quad light to compete directly with the HID boys? :naughty:
I can feel a Quad 'Q2' with McR19's calling
Tim.
nightrider
Enlightened
Thanks Tim. Yes, the Crees were supposed to be from the same bin (at least in terms of brightness P3 bin). As far as tint I did not specify when I ordered... but I assumed that all would be the same. So as you can see there is also a "Cree lottery."Timson said:Love the refinements you've made to the design of your housing..Very professional looking. :rock:
Noticed your shot showing the different tints from the emitters.
Were they all supposed to be the same bin with regards to tint.
Any plans to do a Quad light to compete directly with the HID boys? :naughty:
I can feel a Quad 'Q2' with McR19's calling
Tim.
I don't have any plans to build a quad, but I am planning to replace the Luxeon V emitters in my Dual Lux V light that I use on my handlebar. I'm going to use wider angle (15 degree) Ledil lenses in it, because I want more flood from my handlebar light. Between the two lights I should have over 700 lumens total output which is more than most single HID bike lighting systems. And I will have the advantage that having both handlebar + helmet light offers... one light that is always pointing where I'm looking, and another light that always points where my bike is looking, and fills the area around my front tire. Also, the lower angle handlebar light causes objects on the ground like rocks and stumps to cast a shadow, which sometimes makes them easier to see than if the light is shining down from above.
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nightrider
Enlightened
Oh yeah, thanks to everyone for all the kind words!
snowman
Newly Enlightened
Nice light and awesome documentation!!! Because single-track has different requirements than fire road or pavement riding I wonder if there is a way to seal it up but leave the ability to swap lenses before a ride. Maybe this could be the variable focus light of my dreams… as long as it can be well sealed.
I wonder how elliptical lenses would work in a biking application. If you mount it down low I think it could give good results.
I wonder how elliptical lenses would work in a biking application. If you mount it down low I think it could give good results.
nightrider
Enlightened
snowman said:
Thanks snowman.
You could just use some silicone caulk to attach a clear plexiglass lens plate over the front of the light (I have done this with previous versions of the light). Then the cover could be removed and the lenses swapped out pretty easily. Just using some silicone heatsink compound in the joints where the front part of the light fasten to the main body of the light will not only make it pretty waterproof, but it will also improve heat transfer away from the light. For complete waterproofing, you would have to add a waterproof momentary contact switch and power connector. The connector and switch I'm using are from Radio Shack which tends not to offer very good quality components these days.
I generally don't choose to ride when it's raining, so complete waterproofing is not such an issue for me. I have been caught in a light sprinkle with the previous version of this light (which does have a sealed front lens) and have not had any problems.
As long as you stick with compatible lenses (such as the Ledil) that will fit, changing them out is not really a problem. The Ledil just use some double-sided tape to stick on... although, I must admit, I would not want to change lenses before each ride as getting the lenses sitting correctly on top of the Cree is very important to achieving the proper beam pattern.
nightrider
Enlightened
In response to several folks who've PM'd me for information on cost, sourcing, and a parts list for this light, I thought it would be useful to post this here: (not that I minded the PMs )
1. Total cost to build light: about $110 US (not including battery)
The light is working out great for me so far. I decided to go ahead and use silcone to attach a plexiglass cover over the front to better waterproof the light (especially since I got caught in a sprinkle the other night). It stays fairly cool while riding but will get warm if left on high while stopped for a few minutes... I generally switch to low power when I stop... the nFlex is great.
)1. Total cost to build light: about $110 US (not including battery)
- 3 XR-E (P3 bin) + 3 Ledil optics + S&H = 62.11 (from cutter.com)
- 1 nFlex controller + S&H = 30.18 (from taskled.com)
- 1 momentary contact switch = 2.65 (RadioShack)
- 1 size M, DC power connector = 2.15 (RadioShack)
- 1 foot of 1" (1/16" thickness) square aluminum tube = 2.50 (Lowe's hardware dept) - I think I had to buy a 4 foot section
- J-B Weld (used less than 1/10) = 6.00/10 = 0.60 (Walmart)
- Arctic Alumina Adhesive (used about 1/4) = 7.00/4 = 1.75 (Sandwich shoppe)
- Wire (22-24 ga), solder = 2.00 (Radio Shack)
- 2 #8-32 hex head screws + washers + rubber washers = 2.00 (Lowe's hardware dept)
- Rubber grip for bottom of helmet feet = 1.50 (Lowe's - furniture grip)
The light is working out great for me so far. I decided to go ahead and use silcone to attach a plexiglass cover over the front to better waterproof the light (especially since I got caught in a sprinkle the other night). It stays fairly cool while riding but will get warm if left on high while stopped for a few minutes... I generally switch to low power when I stop... the nFlex is great.
wquiles
Flashaholic
Totally awesome - great job :rock:
Will
Will
Tidra
Enlightened
nightrider
Enlightened
Tidra said:
Tidra. It's hard to compare by looking at pictures. But, it's definitely brighter and whiter than the CateEye TripleShot. Probably not quite as bright as the HIDs... but close... I'm going to try and borrow a friend's L&M HID bike light to make some comparison shots in the next week or two.
I was running this light at 1 amp on my trail ride tonight and it just kicks butt.
It should be putting out over 450 lumens when driven at one amp. Normally I drive it at 750ma (which provides plenty of light) and that gives about 390 lumens.Thanks for the kind words everyone. CPF continues to be a great source for information and learning!
Sawtooth
Newly Enlightened
Awesome! Cant wait to build my quad cree. (Of course we are snowed in now so I guess there is no hurry...
)
How hot does the light get? Have you tried it at 1A? Does that shorten the life of the LEDs?
)How hot does the light get? Have you tried it at 1A? Does that shorten the life of the LEDs?
Sawtooth
Newly Enlightened
nightrider said:
It would also be cool to see comparison with your TriLux..:naughty:
nightrider
Enlightened
Sawtooth said:
Go back and look at the first post in this thread. The third beamshot is my TriLuxIII and the fourth beamshot is the Triple Cree XR-E.
nightrider
Enlightened
Sawtooth said:Awesome! Cant wait to build my quad cree. (Of course we are snowed in now so I guess there is no hurry...
How hot does the light get? Have you tried it at 1A? Does that shorten the life of the LEDs?
The light will be ice cold if you go riding in the snow
I normally ride in temps around 65F. At 750ma, the light runs just a degree or two above ambient air temp. At 1A, it gets a little warmer, but not bad, and it's really bright. It's hard to know how much overdriving the LED at 1A will shorten its life. I think that as long as the LEDs stay fairly cool, it will have minimal impact... but big deal if my Crees last only 25,000 hours as opposed to 50,000 hours! I imagine I will be moving on to the next generation of LEDs looong before these start to loose brightness.
ViReN
Flashlight Enthusiast
hey, I just noticed this http://myfwyc.org/Timberlake/CreeLEDLight/IMG_1992
now.... how good/bad is it against luxeon Lottery ?
Good Job by the way
now.... how good/bad is it against luxeon Lottery ?
Good Job by the way
