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Wave of Haiku High CRI

fyrstormer

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Another question: do you have any thermal images of a Hi-CRI Haiku that's been left to run on High for the same amount of time as the Haiku XR-E in your original Haiku thread? I'd like to know whether it's feasible to leave a Hi-CRI Haiku running as a photography light for an extended period of time without it getting too hot to hold. The 167mA lower power consumption ought to be worth at least a few degrees of lower surface temperature.
 

McGizmo

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Another question: do you have any thermal images of a Hi-CRI Haiku that's been left to run on High for the same amount of time as the Haiku XR-E in your original Haiku thread? I'd like to know whether it's feasible to leave a Hi-CRI Haiku running as a photography light for an extended period of time without it getting too hot to hold. The 167mA lower power consumption ought to be worth at least a few degrees of lower surface temperature.

No, sorry but I haven't done any thermal tests since then.
 

pjandyho

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What is the temperature of high CRI and the warm XP-G? Been thinking of getting a high CRI but I am not sure if I should have gone ahead with the warm XP-G instead. Thing is, some manufacturers use the term warm to actually mean neutral white (Zebralight is one) so I am not sure what I would be expecting if I went with warm. Really warm? Or neutral white that is quite close to the high CRI?
 

fyrstormer

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"Hi-CRI" just means "colored objects look the same as if they were lit by sunlight." As you know, sunlight changes tint during the day, but it is always 100% CRI. As I understand it, Don's Hi-CRI emitters are comparable to mid-morning or late afternoon sunlight.

(yes, I know that's a simplistic explanation, but it should be good enough.)
 

pjandyho

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"Hi-CRI" just means "colored objects look the same as if they were lit by sunlight." As you know, sunlight changes tint during the day, but it is always 100% CRI. As I understand it, Don's Hi-CRI emitters are comparable to mid-morning or late afternoon sunlight.

(yes, I know that's a simplistic explanation, but it should be good enough.)

Thanks for helping my friend, but I think I failed to explain myself properly. My apologies.

I know what high CRI is about and I have owned a few high CRI lights except the McGizmo ones. Compared my 100 lumen high CRI HDS clicky to my friend's Haiku high CRI and found the HDS to be brighter, maybe almost twice as bright (visually)?

So the question is, since the warm XP-G Haiku is definitely running brighter than the high CRI Haiku, would I be better off getting the warm XP-G Haiku instead if I want brighter? I would like to know the color temp of the warm XP-G before coming to a decision. And if possible, the CRI rating of the warm XP-G used in the Haiku?
 

ibcj

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I've owned both the Haiku Warm XP-G and the Haiku high CRI. The output difference is very small wi slightly more output with the warm led. Te difference in output was not enough to sway me from keeping the high CRI and selling the warm. The color rendition of the high CRI is worth a slight decrease in output.
 

pjandyho

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I've owned both the Haiku Warm XP-G and the Haiku high CRI. The output difference is very small wi slightly more output with the warm led. Te difference in output was not enough to sway me from keeping the high CRI and selling the warm. The color rendition of the high CRI is worth a slight decrease in output.
Thanks! My preference sway towards the high CRI since I am a high CRI junkie right now but the output on my high CRI HDS clicky on max is about as low as I would like my light to achieve. If there is no major difference in output between the warm XP-G and the high CRI Nichia 119, then I would rather stick with the high CRI.
 

tsl

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What is the temperature of high CRI and the warm XP-G? Been thinking of getting a high CRI but I am not sure if I should have gone ahead with the warm XP-G instead. Thing is, some manufacturers use the term warm to actually mean neutral white (Zebralight is one) so I am not sure what I would be expecting if I went with warm. Really warm? Or neutral white that is quite close to the high CRI?

Per Don's Nichia High CRI 119 LED thread, the Nichia CCT is a minimum 4500k (sw45) with a 92 CRI. The same thread states that the Haiku High CRI has a 90 lumen output on high as measured in Don's sphere.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?298253-Nichia-High-CRI-119-LED

The warn XP-G used is a R4 Cree 5B1. Cree labels it as neutral white. The CCT is approx. 4000k. See posts 121 and 132 in the below thread. In post 180, Dan (run4jc) measured 150 lumens in his own integrating sphere. The CRI is typically 75 per Cree's website.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?256673-Wave-of-Ti-Haiku-XP-G-flashlights

So, CCT should be close between the two. CRI is where the Nichia is much better.

I have the High CRI Mule and the "warm" XP-G Haiku. I went with the warm Haiku because I wanted more lumens.
 

fyrstormer

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It's worth noting that the 60-lumen difference between the Nichia and Cree XP-G Warm emitters will be most obvious in two scenarios: 1) lighting up something far away, or 2) spot-lighting something that's already partially lit by area lighting.

The first scenario would benefit the most from a cool emitter anyway, because cool emitters are always produce the most lumens per watt. In the second scenario, if the purpose is photography, you definitely want to use a Hi-CRI emitter for spot-lighting because the camera will show the skewing effects from a non-Hi-CRI emitter much more strongly than your own vision will; if the purpose isn't photography, the tint of the emitter probably doesn't matter anyway since you already have area lighting skewing your retinas' perception of color.

General task-lighting, such as lighting up the sidewalk on a nighttime walk or fiddling with circuit breakers in a dark basement, won't be significantly affected by the lower output of the Hi-CRI emitter. All of this is to say, if you want a warm emitter, you might as well get a Hi-CRI emitter anyway, just so you have that option available to you.
 

pjandyho

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Thanks guys. I have made my decision and ordered a Haiku XM-L and Mule high CRI. I already felt broke.
 

nbp

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Andy, as an HDS junkie used to programming modes, it is a change. But I don't think it is a bad change. In fact, the KISS mentality behind these lights has really grown on me and I think you will appreciate it too.
 

pjandyho

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Thanks Nick. I really appreciate you taking the time to answer all my questions in our PM which has helped me greatly in my decision making on what emitters I should have in the lights. I just can't wait to see the Mule in action. It is such a beauty in itself.
 

nfetterly

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I hope so. I am not quite sure if I will like the UI. Admittedly I am merely drawn to the looks of it.

Just give it a chance. I sold my first Haiku - I was transitioning from the PD style lights. I caved when Don offered it in Bead Blast and it's a fantastic light. I've got the original XR-E, while I'm a warm to neutral kind of guy this light still gets alot of use.
 

pjandyho

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Just give it a chance. I sold my first Haiku - I was transitioning from the PD style lights. I caved when Don offered it in Bead Blast and it's a fantastic light. I've got the original XR-E, while I'm a warm to neutral kind of guy this light still gets alot of use.

I will take time to put them to good use before coming to my own conclusion but is there a reason why Don discontinued the PD lights? I thought it is quite a nice UI.
 

PoliceScannerMan

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is there a reason why Don discontinued the PD lights? I thought it is quite a nice UI.

We may be getting a bit OT here, but the reason Don dicontinued the PD is due to the newer bright emitters. With the PD, there is a resistored low and a high, 2 levels. Don has said that with the newer bright emitters, a third "mid" level is beneficial. The 3 speed is the way to go for the third level via a clicky switch. I remember him posting that somewhere, I dont remember...
 

pjandyho

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We may be getting a bit OT here, but the reason Don dicontinued the PD is due to the newer bright emitters. With the PD, there is a resistored low and a high, 2 levels. Don has said that with the newer bright emitters, a third "mid" level is beneficial. The 3 speed is the way to go for the third level via a clicky switch. I remember him posting that somewhere, I dont remember...

Thanks for the response. I also apologize for the OT.
 
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