Zebralight SC5c II vs SC53w - a comparison

[iamlucky13]

Of course, how could I forget? I knew there was something I was supposed to do...

SC53w to the left, SC5c II to the right. Both lights on max output. ISO 200, white balance set to "Daylight"

Thanks! I appreciate seeing the neutral white and high-CRI comparison.

Forgive my asking, but is it possible you mixed up the daylight and fluorescent balanced images? The images labeled as fluorescent are more like what I anticipated seeing for daylight balance, but that could just be my expectations being off-target.

It fits all my pockets Since I do not mind carrying something as big as a SC600 in my trouser pocket (I usually wear loose-fit clothes) I may not be the best person to ask about pocket fit.

Mainly I was curious if you think there is a significant different in how well the SC53 fits in the pocket compared to the SC5, or if the difference seems barely perceptible.

I have access to a pair of low budget calipers but using them is not my forte. I am not exactly sure what you mean by the narrower side of the head - I assume you you mean the side that sort of tapers, where the switch is located. I have tried to take some measurements, I hope you will find what you are looking for somewhere in the following bunch of pictures.

Link to full size image: https://s29.postimg.org/7aqschj8n/image.jpg

Excellent, Thanks! This one on the left is the measurement I was hoping you'd be able to do and you went even further. I wasn't sure which way Zebralight's spec was measured and how much narrower one side of the head was compared to the other.

Looks like (if I read the Vernier scale right):
SC53 Head - 25.15mm x 23.45mm (0.99" x 0.92")
SC5 Head - 26.30mm x 25.25mm (1.04" x 0.99")

SC53 Barrel - 18.1mm (0.71")
SC5 Barrel - 20.9mm (0.82")

 

[Swede74]

Thanks! I appreciate seeing the neutral white and high-CRI comparison.

Forgive my asking, but is it possible you mixed up the daylight and fluorescent balanced images? The images labeled as fluorescent are more like what I anticipated seeing for daylight balance, but that could just be my expectations being off-target.

I was asking myself the same question, so I double-checked, and also took a few more beamshots plus control shots (actual daylight through window). Now I wonder if perhaps the camera app creator mislabelled the white balance settings...

Mainly I was curious if you think there is a significant different in how well the SC53 fits in the pocket compared to the SC5, or if the difference seems barely perceptible.

Let me put it this way: If I hold one light in each hand, the difference is easily discernible, and in my opinion more significant than the dimensions on paper suggest. However, while I can tell which light is in which pocket if I have the SC5c II in one pocket and the SC53w in the other; if I was blindfolded and someone put one of the lights in my pocket and asked me to guess which light, several times, I would probably be right 50% of the times. Maybe 60%.

Bear in mind, this is coming from a guy who does not think this (+keys) is an overloaded keychain.

 

[likethevegetable]

I'm curious to know how much heat the SC53c generates compared to the SC5w II. How hot does each one get at it's highest setting?

Ideally I'd be interested in seeing the heat on the same light with the "w" vs. "c" emitters - since the "c" is less efficient I'm wondering how much more heat it would generate.

 

[jon_slider]

I'd be interested in seeing the heat on the same light with the "w" vs. "c" emitters

opinion (not my photos):
Since Zebras have built in thermal regulation, I don't expect you would see a temperature difference. Any efficiency difference would be in lumen hours (brightness x runtime)..

this photo shows a Zebra's heat at 30 seconds,

and at 60 seconds: (the zebra is at 118F, iirc 140F is considered risk of scalding)
also, it is best to actually hold the light in hand, as that helps dissipate heat better than free standing...

my guess is other zebra models will use similar thermal regulation.. but what I could not find for you was a specific thermal scan for the models you are asking about. Maybe someone will find the info you seek.

 

[tompen41]

By the way the SC32W is available on Zebralights site again. I have one shipped yesterday.

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

I have the SC5w and a couple of SC52's. I see the SC53 as a bit of a step backwards from the SC52, since it no longer supports 14500 cells. While I prefer the SC5 for its high output on a AA cell, I still like my smaller SC52's for the same high output on a 14500 cell. The SC52 is only a minute at max output, but that's usually long enough. I wonder why Zebralight dropped the 14500 support?

 

[vadimax]

I have the SC5w and a couple of SC52's. I see the SC53 as a bit of a step backwards from the SC52, since it no longer supports 14500 cells. While I prefer the SC5 for its high output on a AA cell, I still like my smaller SC52's for the same high output on a 14500 cell. The SC52 is only a minute at max output, but that's usually long enough. I wonder why Zebralight dropped the 14500 support?

Perhaps, decided they can easily overheat a light with AA only

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

Perhaps, decided they can easily overheat a light with AA only

That's certainly true for the SC5. I don't have an SC53, but if it's anything like the SC52 on a AA, then it doesn't really get that hot.

Maybe Zebralight wanted to completely separate their AA and lithium-ion lines of flashlights, so they dropped the 14500 support. Pity, because the SC52 was a nice cross-over, and handy that it accepted any chemistry you could throw at it.

The SC53 doesn't look very appealing to me, considering the advantages the SC5 has over it. I think if Zebralight wants a small NiMH light, they should consider making a 1xAAA sized light. That might be really nice for EDC.

 

[markr6]

The SC52w was just a great size. Every little bit helps. It's amazing how much bigger the SC5w feels every time I pick it up. Since the SC53w is even smaller, I may just get one and "deal" with the lower output.

 

[WalkIntoTheLight]

The SC52w was just a great size. Every little bit helps. It's amazing how much bigger the SC5w feels every time I pick it up. Since the SC53w is even smaller, I may just get one and "deal" with the lower output.

Yes, I like the SC5w for it's high output on AA, but it is quite a bit beefier than the SC52w. It looks like they didn't have to make it that big (especially the battery section), unless they were just adding thermal mass for running longer on max.

I don't know why they couldn't give the SC53 the same high output, and just a shorter step-down interval (like the SC52 on a 14500 does).

Outside in winter, you can run a small light at 500+ lumens constantly, and the thing will never even get warm!

 

[Tixx]

The SC52w was just a great size. Every little bit helps. It's amazing how much bigger the SC5w feels every time I pick it up. Since the SC53w is even smaller, I may just get one and "deal" with the lower output.

Been thinking the same thing

 

[Keitho]

I'm happy with the output of my SC53c, less than 300 lumens, but great tint/color/CRI. Any more power, and the poor little AA would be drained too quick for me. If I want tactical or searchlight brightness, any AA light will just be used to find one of my 18650s!

 

[ven]

300lm is enough for pretty much 99% of my uses, I think the figure(output) does not sit right compared to the 1000lm crowd. Other than that, the little sc62d gets used the most of my ZL's which kicks out 320lm. Even then, I use the H2 of 145lm most of the time.

To put 300lm into perspective, HDS offers around this output and it's a sort after light. In fact some HDS lights are 1/2 that output and more than adequate for many. Not too long back the 60lm surefire was king.......(yes even that incand 60lm is adequate when used by me, if anything a little too bright/intense hot spot for some uses.)

Along with output/colour temp and UI, form factor is very important . After all too big/small and it gets left behind. The sc5c mkII of mine hardly ever gets used on full output. My one mode click(h1) is set considerably less at probably a 1/3. This makes a useful do it all level for me . It's certainly a chunk for an AA light! All helps with heat though....

 

[Swedpat]

I'm happy with the output of my SC53c, less than 300 lumens, but great tint/color/CRI. Any more power, and the poor little AA would be drained too quick for me. If I want tactical or searchlight brightness, any AA light will just be used to find one of my 18650s!

I really like my SC53c. Significantly dimmer than SC5w and dimmer than SC52w as well. But the tint is very pleasant, warm and providing a bit incandescent feeling in my eyes.

300lm is enough for pretty much 99% of my uses, I think the figure(output) does not sit right compared to the 1000lm crowd. Other than that, the little sc62d gets used the most of my ZL's which kicks out 320lm. Even then, I use the H2 of 145lm most of the time.

I find the lowest H level to be good for many purposes.

To put 300lm into perspective, HDS offers around this output and it's a sort after light. In fact some HDS lights are 1/2 that output and more than adequate for many. Not too long back the 60lm surefire was king.......(yes even that incand 60lm is adequate when used by me, if anything a little too bright/intense hot spot for some uses.)

I remember in the beginning of my flashoholic life when I thought Maglite 6D was the output king. And still this beast was dimmer than a 25w home light bulb. Then I remember when it was a sensation that a portable flashlight smaller than 2D pushed out an output similar to a 40w home light bulb. Now a Mini Maglite sized flashlight rivals a 75w home light bulb and that for an hour or so.
I am in the age that raised up with incandescents and therefore I still have the incandescent bulb as a kind of reference in my mind. But all my indoors light bulbs are now replaced with LEDs.

 

[ven]

It is impressive how far we have come, even now thinking 300lm is not adequate. We are spoilt

 

[radellaf]

I'm considering the 53c as an upgrade to a 52 and 52d. The problem I have with the 52 is that the contacts shred the top and especially bottom of batteries. This was mostly a problem for the 14500 that the 53 doesn't take, but I didn't really enjoy having my NiMH contacts gouged. I see the 53 keeps a spring for the tailcap, but does the bigger spring do less damage? Part of the problem with the 52 was that the gold plating would wear off at the contact points so you'd get this abrasive edge of steel wire and edge-of-plating that would shred the negative end even more than when the light was new. So maybe the 53 uses better wire.

What's the positive contact in the SC53 look like?

In case you think I'm exaggerating what the SC52 does to an eneloop, here's a photo. It's worse, and more concerning, on less robust NiMH cells. Much less unprotected 14500s. I taped some brass sheet stock to the end of my 14500s as a disposable protector.

edit: asking ZL support for an official answer. I'm guessing I'll have to go with the SC64 if I want another "c" ZL but who knows. They _did_ know about this problem, and the SC5 tailcap was supposed to be the solution.

 

[ven]

The sc53w i have looks a little strange or not what i am use to in a + contact anyway,

The tail cap spring is not too stiff, moderate maybe at best . No issue with my loops so far

 

[radellaf]

The Apple "]["positive contacts. Thanks, that was the one thing ZL wouldn't tell me in their (perhaps understandably, but still annoying) terse replies. I just ordered one SC53c. Maybe it'll behave, but even if it does chew on my battery contacts like the SC52, I have mitigations.

I am rather disappointed that all the seeming (internal, mechanical) design improvements went into the SC5. The SC51, IMHO, was the best contact-wise, but they said there were problems.

I'll second two sentiments in this thread: the SC52/53 spoils me for what size an AA light should be, and 200-300lm is fine for the bedside and 'round the house, since there are so many choices (half ZL) of larger 18650 lights nearby if I need more lumens.

Here's a photo of my solutions to the contact issues, having bought some copper and borrowed some brass shim stock. If I soldered the .5mm hammered dome onto that spring the solution would be permanent, and I could use thinner copper. The foil tape is, I think, .1mm, as is the brass on the 14500. Why they can't put something on the spring at the factory, IDK, but with unprotected 14500s out of the picture for the SC53, much less of an issue. NiMH are tougher. Or maybe the minor spring change is enough. Something about the one in the 52 was oddly brutal considering the wire is thick and the clipped off bit is _not_ sticking up. I do kinda wonder what would let go if the battery did get punched through. Would the rubber button vent the gas, or would the tailcap rocket off? I think the battery compartment is sealed by the potted driver, but who knows what enough pressure would do.

I remember in the beginning of my flashoholic life when I thought Maglite 6D was the output king. And still this beast was dimmer than a 25w home light bulb.

However it was a very well focused ~150 lumens. Even the MiniMag was held up to early 1W LEDs with 3-5x the lumens if you looked at the hotspot. 'round the house, lumens is more important, but then I never carried a 6D Mag around the house. I did, for a few months, carry a 3D around the college campus. Why? IDK. I was a flashlight geek in 1995 and choices were few. These days campus security would probably not allow it, but like you said, the mini-mag size ZLs put out 75W incandescent, so, ain't LEDs cool.

 

[radellaf]

My sc5c mkII XP-L2 easywhite 4000k hi cri is different to the above pics. It is yellow , quite a bit more yellow from the several 219c 4000k nichia.... The 219c 4000k is towards yellow, but nowhere like this XP-L2..............it is yellow. Once i got used to it , its not as bad as i 1st thought. Just not ideal to compare with other "tints" as it makes it worse still. However yellow apart! it does make colours look great...I can cope and do enjoy it when used, but i wont be getting another xp-l2 easywhite unless guaranteed...less yellow.

Just got in a SC53c and have to say I've got a similar experience. It's not quite the old Luxeon I "puke green," but it does bring back those memories. The hotspot seems great, but that corona is very yellow and maybe a bit green. Outdoors, or at over 10' distances, it blends pretty well, but I got this for mostly short range use. Here's a comparison with my worst (for ugly corona) other decent flashlight, a SC600w with the early XM-L yellow coronas. Camera is a RX100 set to 4000K WB, so you can see, if the camera is calibrated, the XM-L is cooler (4200K spec) and the XP-L is on target for CCT but bad enough on tint I'm having thoughts of a return. Probably not, but all the ZLs after that SC600w have been so nice and pure white, over a range of CCTs. This ain't.

edit: the camera has a A-B (cyan-orange) G-M (green-magenta) color balance setting (auto or manual) and the hotspot and spill measure A-B:0 G-M: M1 (so the LED is a step Green, the camera adjusts a step Magenta). The corona gets M2. So yeah, it's a bit green. Compensating for yellow would be more like B1 M1 or B2 M2. However A-B:0 means it's not yellow-green, just green, and not by much. It only looks yellow-green in most light because 4000K is yellow compared to cooler color temperatures. The SC600 measures 4200K A-B:0 G-M: M2 in both hotspot and corona, and G1 in the spill.

The main thing making me think it's OK to keep is that it really does look fine on anything but a wall or ceiling. The yellow tint reflected from a ceiling bounce isn't a problem either - it looks yellow, not puke green.

 

[ven]

If you can, i would just use the sc53c on its own as much as possible for a few days. Trying to limit other types of light pollution (be it house lighting or other different CT's). See how you get on, i go through stages of love/hate being honest.

General comments........
I see all kinds of fugly(white wall ) on various lights, heck you want to see what a quad mule up close does!!! But other than being a quick check for beams, white wall hunting should be banned :laughing: I still do it though, its kind of a check i do but i also know in real world use, it serves no actual use. So for me, a light that may get used for reading at night, or working under the hood.............walking the dog. Until those specific uses have been tested out, i dont rule a light out straight off(me this, not aimed at anyone as a general comment). My xp-l2 is very yellow, but at times i have used it and it does not look to bad(yellow ). I think my sweet spot for the xp-l2 LED is 4500k(like in the sc53w). Not as hi cri, but who cares(i dont) if the tint or beam is not fugly. It falls real easy on my eyes and enjoy it more. My sc63w is 4500k xhp35 and this i really enjoy, 80+ cri and again i dont care as the beam, colours are fantastic to my eyes. Just because a few colours dont "pop" as much..............i dont care. I want real like colours anyway, not too exaggerated.

I enjoy my PrinceCvn triple xpl HI 4000k more than most, the beam, colour temp and hint of warmth is just amazing. So hi cri, or latest LED comes 2nd to my wants in a beam, has to be nice on the eye for the application at hand.