Northern Lights
Flashlight Enthusiast
The Pictures you ask for:
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MAG BORING-I BUILT MY OWN MILL-PICT!
- Thread starter Northern Lights
- Start date
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cnjl3
Enlightened
That is one 'awesome' set up
Saves you some 'coin' for other priorities.
A true flashaholic.
:thumbsup:
Saves you some 'coin' for other priorities.
A true flashaholic.
:thumbsup:
I have never seen a cutting tool like that. Where do you find those bits?
modamag
Flashlight Enthusiast
Northern_Lights: That's one heck of a creative machine. :twothumbs
Lux: ebay is your friend (@ 1/5 price).
Lux: ebay is your friend (@ 1/5 price).
NotEnoughLight
Enlightened
Modamag, is there a specific name for those cutting tools? I'm getting drill bits in my ebay search 
Northern Lights
Flashlight Enthusiast
I NEED TO ADDRESS THIS AGAIN, I WONDER IF A MODERATOR COULD COMMENT.
I am Northern Lights,... northern_lights is not me, that person came long after me. When you post your user name is underlined and these two look the same. That has confused some people. The computer does not differentiate the capitals but does que off the underscore!
You may want to contact the mods directly, I doubt they will see this post....but, what is the description of those type of bits? I never saw one like that before, and don't know what to call them when searching.
Northern Lights
Flashlight Enthusiast
Plasmaman found these, looks like the real McCoy:
I prefer the steel cutter because it takes smaller chips, bites that is, and is less likely to chatter. Also does not chatter because the extension fitting is slightly off center so a deeper bite at part of the rotations
http://www.atigarryson.com/Catalog/Bu_Catalog.asp
http://www.atigarryson.com/Catalog/BU_Detail.asp?id=490
Sweet! Thanks!
This was another site that had some of these too. The 19mm is likely a 3/4" bit. Doing a google for 3/4" cylindrical bur gives a pretty good list.
http://www.carbidebur.com/shapes/saburs.htm
This was another site that had some of these too. The 19mm is likely a 3/4" bit. Doing a google for 3/4" cylindrical bur gives a pretty good list.
http://www.carbidebur.com/shapes/saburs.htm
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DonShock
Flashlight Enthusiast
Another possible suggestion to increase the rigidity occurred to me as I was looking at your pictures.
I am assuming you move the extension shaft lengthwise through your bearings as you cut, so at some points, there could be a fair amount of distance between the mill and your second bearing. One idea I had while looking at your pictures would be to add a third bearing on the shaft of the mill itself, between the mill head and head of the extension shaft. If you let the square side of the bearing float on the square shaft, instead of being fixed in position like your existing bearing, it would always be supporting the mill at the minimum possible distance for minimal flexing. And the distance between the mill and the bearing would always be the same so whatever flexing there was would stay consistant as the mill is moved lengthwise through the light. This might produce smoother results.
I am thinking about building one of these rigs myself. I already have the cross slide table sitting around unused. I bought one for a benchtop drill press and it was too large to use.
Northern Lights
Flashlight Enthusiast
No, the cutter is not moved back and forth in the bearings as I cut, could do that but I don't. The vise is a cross slide and the feed is done with one of the axis cranks (you know that but for others still looking over this beast I tossed that in). But I know what you are saying; I left the forward bearing float on the square guide at first, the reason that it can be moved and also why the vice can be mounted differently by repositioning it on the frame is to accomodate longer tubes. I also can use a longer shaft and repositiong the bearing close to the cutter. This way the machine is very adaptable. When in use I run the cutter on the shaft as close to the forward bearing as possible. The shaft has a taper so you cannot get all the way up to the cutter with the bearing. The way it is set up now I believe will take care of up to 3D cells. I wanted the machine to be able to take on a 4D although at this time I have no plans to have one myself.
edit
DON! I just got a brainstorming idea! From your suggestion. You would not need the one axis on the vice if you floated a third or made the second bearing longer and floated it. Once you positioned the tube you could do the entire feed by using the cutter shaft. Good idea but I prefer the control of fixing the bearing and shaft and feeding the tube using the vice axis. But your idea fixes a big problem! The combined lengths of the shaft and travel of the vice can be coupled togther for 4D, I do not think I can do a 4D without stepping the tube in the vice because the travel should be shorter than the 4D.
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TrekJeff
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2007
- Messages
- 34
Very nice, the bit looks like some of the ones made at Gar Tool in Alma MI. Very nice boring jig. I would suggest tacking the corners to ensure it all stays square, all in all, great work!!:thumbsup:
Christexan
Enlightened
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2006
- Messages
- 224
Great job! I'd rebuild it using box-frame pre-holed tubing rather than the L tubing (wrote up a long description, but if you have no intention of rebuilding it, then figure no point in reading about it), box frame would be much more torque resistance and sag resistant, but other than that it's great!
That, and I'd put in a couple of opposing diagonal spans to guarantee it stays square under stress (right-angle crosspieces with one mounting point allow the frame to go trapezoidal, a couple of opposing diagonals (I'd put them past the ends of the user area, extending the long spans, and use flat plate, in summary version). Just some suggested improvements if anyone else is considering such a project, or for a "V2" of it. Won't cost much more, but give a tremendously more stable frame.
Just my suggestions, not being critical at all though, very creative and does the job!
That, and I'd put in a couple of opposing diagonal spans to guarantee it stays square under stress (right-angle crosspieces with one mounting point allow the frame to go trapezoidal, a couple of opposing diagonals (I'd put them past the ends of the user area, extending the long spans, and use flat plate, in summary version). Just some suggested improvements if anyone else is considering such a project, or for a "V2" of it. Won't cost much more, but give a tremendously more stable frame.
Just my suggestions, not being critical at all though, very creative and does the job!
Northern Lights
Flashlight Enthusiast
Suggestions are much appreciated. I have to do a tri bore on a mag charger then see what the machine did to respond to that job. I am taking the suggestions and my experiments and plan in the distant future to build "markII" on an old lathe bed, using the head to turn the cutter. I figure and old bed stripped of accessories would be pretty cheap. I have seen some in used tool shops.
katsyonak
Enlightened
- Joined
- May 9, 2007
- Messages
- 277
Good job! very innovative indeed :thumbsup:
Jenova
Enlightened
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2007
- Messages
- 201
That is sweet man You interested in some work ?
You interested in some work ?
Northern Lights
Flashlight Enthusiast
No, it is time consuming and you should see the hole I bored through the last tube I was working on. It is easy to make a mistake if you are distracted.That is sweet man
LOL! You may have invented a new heat dissipating system!
Northern Lights
Flashlight Enthusiast
LOL? Just keep laughing, mine is the last laugh!
As I promised when I tire of this contraption and its evil rituals I am sending it to dwell with you; it has an appetite for Mag Instrument aluminum. One 3D = One baggie of aluminum chips!
You can handle the fan mail.
Kidding aside; maybe someone will want a 3D bright aluminum finish quad-bore to shorten past the new "vent system" to an odd size, I kept the tube.
One thing I noticed is that in many cases a quad-bore will also handle tri-bore needs too, that is my tri-pack of A size (18mm) would slide into the 4 bore. It is a shot at a universal host.
