gunga
Flashaholic
$60 plus shipping.
ReyLight Ti Lan Proto Review
- Thread starter gunga
- Start date
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I'm in. Almost ordered two, but decided to let someone else get a light.
Trits will come later.
Trits will come later.
hbk_rey
Enlightened
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- Nov 2, 2014
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hbk_rey
Enlightened
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Massdrop just took some horrible pictures. It is same as reviewed.
Tejasandre
Flashlight Enthusiast
You probably could have put up a pick of a potato & still sold out the run. 
congrats
congrats
hbk_rey
Enlightened
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- Nov 2, 2014
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You probably could have put up a pick of a potato & still sold out the run.
hahahah:twothumbs
You probably could have put up a pick of a potato & still sold out the run.
Lol There was a picture?
Tejasandre
Flashlight Enthusiast
With an option for ketchup or catsup.
gunga
Flashaholic
Ok. Some people have asked about trit installs on this light. I'll provide some info.
I get my trits and norland 61 at mixglo.com. You will need 10x of the 1.5x6mm trits. I use a Jaxman U1 UV light (365nm) but any good UV light will do. Sunlight also works well but it's a bit tricky for the trits at the end.
I like to use a toothpick to add norland. I put some norland in a small surface (a healthy drop) and use a toothpick to transfer it to the the light. Some people use syringes or fine tipped bulb dropper. You can look up other methods.
So, for the 4 slots (3 around the head, 1 in the button), you can partially fill the slot. Make sure the surface is level because the norland is like light syrup and will run. Try to keep it in the slot. Excess can be cleaned off carefully with qtips, a rag etc. Alcohol helps but keep it away from the norland in the slot. Also watch out for lint or anything left during cleaning. Don't fill it more than 1/2 full so there is space for the vial.
Then use fine tweezers and carefully place the vial in the slot. You can adjust the position of the vial now. Be slow and gentle so you don't introduce bubbles. You may need to work on stray bubbles that show up, especially around the ends of the vial. Carefully work on them with sharp tweezers or a toothpick. You may still end up with bubbles after but we are trying to minimize this. The less you do to disturb the norland the better, but watch out for those bubbles!
Now you can add more norland to cover the vial and fill up the slot. The norland should be above the level of the slot, but just a bit. It will shrink when curing.
Now carefully move it into the sun or add your UV light. This should cure the norland. The length of time varies a lot. It can be quick with an intense uv light. Direct sunlight is good, behind glass or a cloudy day will slow it down a lot.
After curing, any excess can be carefully scraped off. A sharp toothpick is good as it won't damage the light. Try not to hit the norland in slot. You may want to leave longer to ensure it's fully cured below the surface.
I'll provide more details on the 6 end trits later.
I get my trits and norland 61 at mixglo.com. You will need 10x of the 1.5x6mm trits. I use a Jaxman U1 UV light (365nm) but any good UV light will do. Sunlight also works well but it's a bit tricky for the trits at the end.
I like to use a toothpick to add norland. I put some norland in a small surface (a healthy drop) and use a toothpick to transfer it to the the light. Some people use syringes or fine tipped bulb dropper. You can look up other methods.
So, for the 4 slots (3 around the head, 1 in the button), you can partially fill the slot. Make sure the surface is level because the norland is like light syrup and will run. Try to keep it in the slot. Excess can be cleaned off carefully with qtips, a rag etc. Alcohol helps but keep it away from the norland in the slot. Also watch out for lint or anything left during cleaning. Don't fill it more than 1/2 full so there is space for the vial.
Then use fine tweezers and carefully place the vial in the slot. You can adjust the position of the vial now. Be slow and gentle so you don't introduce bubbles. You may need to work on stray bubbles that show up, especially around the ends of the vial. Carefully work on them with sharp tweezers or a toothpick. You may still end up with bubbles after but we are trying to minimize this. The less you do to disturb the norland the better, but watch out for those bubbles!
Now you can add more norland to cover the vial and fill up the slot. The norland should be above the level of the slot, but just a bit. It will shrink when curing.
Now carefully move it into the sun or add your UV light. This should cure the norland. The length of time varies a lot. It can be quick with an intense uv light. Direct sunlight is good, behind glass or a cloudy day will slow it down a lot.
After curing, any excess can be carefully scraped off. A sharp toothpick is good as it won't damage the light. Try not to hit the norland in slot. You may want to leave longer to ensure it's fully cured below the surface.
I'll provide more details on the 6 end trits later.
Last edited:
gunga
Flashaholic
Okay. So now onto the 6 trits holes in the end of the light.
A quick note, any UV light you use must be centred around 365 nm wavelength. A black light (around 395-400 nm) will make the trit glow nicely but won't cure the norland. Be careful of this UV wavelength (365nm). It can be damaging to eyes and skin.
My proto had nasty burrs and unfinished metal in the holes. Make sure you check before starting the install (ironically a flashlight is needed for this). I ended up using a paper clip to punch out any burrs so the trit vial can slide in smoothly. Make sure you check the fit before adding norland. Production models should be properly finished but it's good to check.
Ok, you only need norland at the end of the hole to hold the trit into the light. Adding more is not needed and not recommended. If you ever need to remove or replace a vial, you will regret adding too much norland. It also looks sloppy.
I recommend you do one hole at a time. I also do multiple passes with small amounts of norland each time. I usually do three passes per hole. This is much slower and more labour intensive but ensures good results with few bubbles. You will likely have some but it won't be bad.
You can try doing it all in one step, or doing multiple holes at once, but here is what will likely happen.
- the oddest thing is that the norland will actually suck the vial out of the hole due to capillary action. The vial will not be properly seated in the hole.
- the norland will likely run into that hole, dripping down the side or back. This will look sloppy and will also make it really hard to change the vial for any reason. You will also need to add more norland anyways since the nice amount you have will be dripping down the side of the vial.
Just don't do it!
So, this is what I recommend.
- Do one hole at a time.
- Add a small amount of norland, push the vial down to make sure it's seated. Let it settle briefly and quickly cure it (this is where a UV light is useful).
- Add a bit more to fill most of hole. Deal with bubbles and cure quickly.
- Add a bit more, close to the level of the end of the light if possible. Try to not introduce bubbles. Deal with bubbles if needed. Cure quickly. The norland shrinks during curing so you overfill just slightly and cure it to get a level surface. This also helps the vial look a touch bigger and brighter at the end (if you leave it concave, it acts as a lens, making the vial look smaller).
You can try to combine the last two steps but be aware you can still get drips if the first round wasn't enough to seal off the hole. It's safer to do it in three steps but takes time.
There you have it!
A quick note, any UV light you use must be centred around 365 nm wavelength. A black light (around 395-400 nm) will make the trit glow nicely but won't cure the norland. Be careful of this UV wavelength (365nm). It can be damaging to eyes and skin.
My proto had nasty burrs and unfinished metal in the holes. Make sure you check before starting the install (ironically a flashlight is needed for this). I ended up using a paper clip to punch out any burrs so the trit vial can slide in smoothly. Make sure you check the fit before adding norland. Production models should be properly finished but it's good to check.
Ok, you only need norland at the end of the hole to hold the trit into the light. Adding more is not needed and not recommended. If you ever need to remove or replace a vial, you will regret adding too much norland. It also looks sloppy.
I recommend you do one hole at a time. I also do multiple passes with small amounts of norland each time. I usually do three passes per hole. This is much slower and more labour intensive but ensures good results with few bubbles. You will likely have some but it won't be bad.
You can try doing it all in one step, or doing multiple holes at once, but here is what will likely happen.
- the oddest thing is that the norland will actually suck the vial out of the hole due to capillary action. The vial will not be properly seated in the hole.
- the norland will likely run into that hole, dripping down the side or back. This will look sloppy and will also make it really hard to change the vial for any reason. You will also need to add more norland anyways since the nice amount you have will be dripping down the side of the vial.
Just don't do it!
So, this is what I recommend.
- Do one hole at a time.
- Add a small amount of norland, push the vial down to make sure it's seated. Let it settle briefly and quickly cure it (this is where a UV light is useful).
- Add a bit more to fill most of hole. Deal with bubbles and cure quickly.
- Add a bit more, close to the level of the end of the light if possible. Try to not introduce bubbles. Deal with bubbles if needed. Cure quickly. The norland shrinks during curing so you overfill just slightly and cure it to get a level surface. This also helps the vial look a touch bigger and brighter at the end (if you leave it concave, it acts as a lens, making the vial look smaller).
You can try to combine the last two steps but be aware you can still get drips if the first round wasn't enough to seal off the hole. It's safer to do it in three steps but takes time.
There you have it!
Last edited:
The estimated shipping date is June 12?
gunga
Flashaholic
Yes. That is correct.
kaichu dento
Flashaholic
This post should be stickied so that anyone ever searching CPF for instruction on trit installation will immediately be pointed towards it.
Great job Gunga!
gunga
Flashaholic
Thanks! I'll have some helpful hints on the end trits install too. It's a bit slower but should yield good results. It's surprising what little things go wrong when you rush. Ask me how I know.
phosphor22
Enlightened
yep these are great hints - thanks gunga
Yes great job on your trit installation post, gunga!
hbk_rey
Enlightened
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2014
- Messages
- 503
I'm going to ship the batch to MD tomorrow, it should arrive at weekend, or next Monday. (May-14th) Then they can pack them in each individual order, and ship.
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