HDS Systems EDC #21

[jon_slider]

Got what I've been wanting! A super low mode for looking through a bag in the woods. Love the programability of this light! Absolutely amazing. I have no idea why I didn't own one before. I do have a question. If I will be the only person that messes with this light is there any reason not to leave it in program mode so I can shift it on the fly?

Congratulations!
imagine how much easier all that would be with a Rotary

Personally, I keep my clicky in program mode 24-7...as you say, I'm the only one using it...makes it only a double-click and hold to change the presets as I wish for different situations.

I do the same, a double-click and hold to change presets on my Novatac 120

The current manual calls our double click hold command, a tripple PRESS hold release: (they are the same thing 3 press equals 2 click plus hold)
Triple-press-hold-release. Your flashlight will display the current brightness level. If the current brightness level is the minimum or maximum level, the displayed level will start with a double-blink

EDIT: Wait, what? I just checked the manual online, and it says it takes a double click-press hold to lock on preset A.

no it says Double Press, not Double Click

The current HDS manual has this, from ON:
Double-press-hold-release – selects preset A.
Double Press actually means the same as Click Press, afaict

I especially like it on for the Novatac 120P. It is basically a ramping light. Just double-click-press in any preset and it starts ramping up.

your comments about ramping is what made me buy one.
it sounds like Johnnyh is using the same double-clic hold to ramp his presets as we use with our Novatacs. but I see there is a difference in how the mode gets chosen, we hold, he clicks, we release, he holds till off.
new manual says:
Click to move to the next brightness level. ... When you get to the minimum or maximum level, the displayed level will start with a double-blink.
• Press-and-hold the button to select the current brightness level.

Mine takes double click

we might be using different words to say the same thing, I think you might mean double press..

my cracked to programmable SpaDefense 120T will go to max from ON with a hold or lock max from ON with a click hold release
from off it will also lock max with a click hold release, aka double press
no double click hold here, unless I want access to changing the lumen levels of a preset, as Johnnyh and Hondo do

I can see why only 10% of HDS sales is Clicky based.. theyre Old (school), a dying breed as it were..
Some upstarts and newcomers just want to spin up a dial, instead of learning the wrenching art of HDS programming and maintenance.

Kind of like Real Harleys and Poser Harleys...
or stick shifts vs tiptronics...

Click Press to the Max!

 

[F89]

Congratulations!
imagine how much easier all that would be with a Rotary


I do the same, a double-click and hold to change presets on my Novatac 120



your comments about ramping is what made me buy one.
it sounds like Johnnyh is using the same double-clic hold to ramp his presets as we use with our Novatacs?



my cracked to programmable SpaDefense 120T will go to max from ON with a hold or lock max from ON with a click hold release
from off it will also lock max with a click hold release
no double click hold here, unless I want access to changing the lumen levels of a preset, as Johnnyh and Hondo do

I can see why only 10% of HDS sales is Clicky based.. theyre Old (school), a dying breed as it were..
Some upstarts and newcomers just want to spin up a dial, instead of learning the wrenching art of HDS programming and maintenance.

Kind of like Real Harleys and Poser Harleys...
or stick shifts vs tiptronics...

Click Press to the Max!

I think you're missing the point regarding clickies. From what I'm gathering the old lights aren't quite like the modern clicky which are excellent in handling and use, also the programming thing is straightforward and simple.
Clickies get knocked quite a bit but I'd never swap one for a rotary.

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

We should call them cliqueEs!

 

[F89]

We should call them cliqueEs!

Come on Hogo, we all know you have a secret lust for a pretty little clicky with Blu tack boobies.

 

[jon_slider]

cliqueEs!

and Rotary Clubs lol

the CliqueEs are the vocal minority
and overrepresented online as 24% of the voters
when they only constitute 10% of the buyers

that could mean some CliqueEs are full of hot air, or that most RotaryEs are the strong silent type, and vote with their wallet, while spending less time at online polls.

 

[Lithium466]

I think you're missing the point regarding clickies. From what I'm gathering the old lights aren't quite like the modern clicky which are excellent in handling and use, also the programming thing is straightforward and simple.
Clickies get knocked quite a bit but I'd never swap one for a rotary.

I surprisingly (I'm the first surprised) would say the same thing. Yes you can program the rotary like a clicky, wich is the main argument...but no, it doesn't feel the same. I think I'd prefer the tactical UI better... have to try it. Rotaries have a pretty long ramping process, due to the mode spacing, so perhaps I'd rather prefer the 2 step at a time ramping of the tactical.

 

[F89]

and Rotary Clubs lol

the CliqueEs are the vocal minority
and overrepresented online as 24% of the voters
when they only constitute 10% of the buyers

that could mean some CliqueEs are full of hot air, or that most RotaryEs are the strong silent type, and vote with their wallet, while spending less time at online polls.

Oh people can come up with statistics to prove anything Kent. Forfty percent of all people know that.

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

Come on Hogo, we all know you have a secret lust for a pretty little clicky with Blu tack boobies.

I do have a couple Clicky's and one might or might not have Fun-Tac knockers on it! LOL!

 

[jon_slider]

I think I'd prefer the tactical UI better...

good point
I think that might also make a difference for other people that find the first half of the rotary dial wastes too much real estate on low levels.

and if I understand correctly, the Tactical Rotary is the only UI that can provide either single press strobe from off or single press Maximum from Off, without reprogramming Preset A (with a double press- hold ;-))

choices are good
love the one you're with

 

[Lithium466]

Yes, depending on knob position, but actually the last two position of the rotary knob (not the first half) are shared with presets A and C (C I'm not sure).

 

[F89]

I do have a couple Clicky's and one might or might not have Fun-Tac knockers on it! LOL!

Ha ha I knew you'd confirm the suspicions.

 

[jon_slider]

Yes, depending on knob position, but actually the last two position of the rotary knob (not the first half) are shared with presets A and C (C I'm not sure).

Yes, you are correct that the Tactical position uses one of the presets,
here is what the Tactical Manual says:
Your flashlight has 3 brightness presets – preset A, B and C
Tactical:
• Preset A: maximum
• Preset B: fast strobe
• Preset C: brightness level selected by rotary control

imho the rotary portion can cover the D preset easily, and also works from OFF, without need of a tripple click from ON, as in a CliqueEy.

 

[bigburly912]

Ahh I'm up next on the rotary passaround unless the light has fallen off the face of the earth. That'll help me decide. I have no problems with clickies for now. If I'm on top of big walker mountain this year and it's -20 degrees I can click a lot easier than I can turn a knob. Guarantee it. : D

 

[jon_slider]

Ahh I'm up next on the rotary passaround
...
I can click a lot easier than I can turn a knob. Guarantee it. : D

You have entered the slippery slope, now you might need both!
bet you cant get just one ;-)

 

[bigburly912]

I have acquired 3 in the last few weeks if you count the Novatac. [emoji52]

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

Ahh I'm up next on the rotary passaround unless the light has fallen off the face of the earth. That'll help me decide. I have no problems with clickies for now. If I'm on top of big walker mountain this year and it's -20 degrees I can click a lot easier than I can turn a knob. Guarantee it. : D

I had PM's from the last person to have it and the next person it is going to and have the tracking info, so it's sill out there... It's in USPS's hands now.

 

[bigburly912]

Good deal. I'll be emailing you in the next couple of weeks about some work sir. : ) just have to figure out what I want. I almost pulled the trigger on the double ravens. Actually has an interesting meaning to me.

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

Oh people can come up with statistics to prove anything Kent. Forfty percent of all people know that.

97% of all statistics are just made up right on the spot. Haha!

 

[Tejasandre]

97% of all statistics are just made up right on the spot. Haha!

This statement is accurate. (+/-50%)

 

[tech25]

A few thoughts on the size of the 18680 (18650) and the Cr123 lights:

The 18650 is a bit longer than my Malkoff MD2 with a surefire ( z41) tailcap but it's much slimmer and more comfortable in hand- its similar to the Surefire e2e. It is a bit longer than I thought but its not an issue. Using the Rotary control is a bit easier for me than on the CR123 as I can get a full grip on the light. The extra runtime is noticeable and appreciated. The CR123 is more comfortable for edc but as I carry both Rotaries in holsters, its not a big deal.

I currently have the 4500k led in the 18650 and the 3 O'clock is my backup- using older, partially depleted CR123's around the house.

As far as holsters, I have a Thors Hammer Leather and a canted Kydex from Force Tech. Both Holsters are quality! The lights in the Thors Hammer holster are less noticeable under a polo shirt as they are in a vertical line but more fun to use and easier to draw from the canted holster.

Down the road, I would like to get a canted and pocket holster from Hogo and -if Force Tech makes the HDS holsters again- a regular holster from them.