Lightsaver miser guts fit sf 6p tail!

[ma tumba]

Just tried the sf tailcap with the miser guts with a fm axial 11v bulb in the fm 1794 with 3x vapcell 1100ma 18350 cells. Worked just fine for about a minute then I switched it off.

One thing bothered me tho. Normally at 100% level the switch is silent and it is at lower levels when it gives out the hiss. In this setup however I could clearly hear some buzz at 100 as well. Just wanted to mention this

 

[id30209]

You really did it?! Kudos. Thx for info.

 

[ma tumba]

Tried this switch with 2x 18350 and it puts out the buzz at 100% as well, maybe just less loud but not sure.

 

[The Whispering Gallery]

Will the guts of the Lightsaver only fit into a 6P tailcap with a McClicky installed? Will it fit into a regular Solarforce tailcap? I'm looking to purchase a host specifically for incandescent use with the Lightsaver.

 

[ma tumba]

I failed to remove the switch from a solarforce tailcap. It sat too tight. So I personally don't have the answer

 

[id30209]

Email received from manufacturer, they wont produce any version above 6V. I replied with question if they can replicate miser but in C form. Waiting for answer.

 

[LiftdT4R]

Just wanted to post some pics for anyone thinking about buying one of these. I highly recommend it, it really breathes new life back into any 6P or the like.

Here's what all you get. You can see that even though the switch housing itself its designed for an E body Surefire that on the top of the siwtch there is a retaining ring that can be removed and the "guts" can be re-installed in a 6P or your favorite C bodied Surefire.

I removed the ring with a small pair of needle nose pliers.

And here's what's inside. You won't need the silver spacer or the black threaded retaining ring. You can set those aside.

Next take a 6P switch housing. In this case I'm using a Surefire Nitrolon G2. Disassemble the stock switch. Matt from Adventure Sport has a good video on YouTube for this at:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7ToMyo5_k4

And here's my disassembled switch.

Next you'll want to pop the Light Saver Miser switch into the empty Surefire housing. Be sure to leave out the silver spacer and threaded ring. Even though the ring will thread in it will make the entire assembly to large and your switch won't screw back onto the body completely.

And you're good to go. In this example I'm putting together a new old stock Nitrolon G2 with a cheap KAI Domain 9V Xenon bulb and 2 Keeppower 16340s. A 16650 and a 3.7V bulb would be a better choice due to their much greater capacity but I got a ton of these 16340s from work so I'm going to roll with them.

And the completed light:

Here's a few beam shots. The light comes on high and cycles throw to medium, low, and a couple strobe modes. I prefer a light that starts in low but that's my only gripe. Otherwise the UI is pretty standard. The low mode is really nice and I find myself using it the most. If I have a chance I'll do a run time test on low. I usually get about half an hour or so on high so if the low is truly 25% I'm guessing the run time is around 2 hours.

Hope this helps some folks who are thinking about purchasing one!

 

[id30209]

Great tutorial but i must add that aluminium retaining ring with rubber in the center might be needed in some other tailcaps ie. 2LM Z41 because it's quite deep. You can also use washer and some grinding skills. FM penta is in the same basket, if you want to install it you need to cut down pentas alu mcklicky retainer for nearly half.

 

[LiftdT4R]

Thanks for the heads up! I should add that I only tried it in a Z41 and a Nitrolon switch so I can't confirm any others.

 

[id30209]

No worries! You've posted what you have and i posted my setup. Maybe somebody will add some other brands and at the end we'll have everything

 

[night.hoodie]

... no matter what voltage always 30-60-100%

Whoa there, please explain why this is your preference? How is this any different from 25-50-100% (reverse order UI to what LightSaver Miser already is)? My suggestion of 11-33-100% is intended to make each advancing mode appear twice as bright as the previous (33% should appear twice as bright as 11%, 100% should appear twice as bright as 33%).

I just came back to suggest that someone check the resistance of these Misers, as I noticed recently the LightSaver on 100% was not nearly as bright as the same config with a z52.

Also, possibly this works and I just panicked: I tried LightSaver with 2xLFE14500, and it didn't fire. I wasn't testing it, I just expected it to work. Nothing. When I switched the Miser back to a 2xCR123A to make sure I didn't fry it, it still worked. If this actually happened, then 2xIMR16340 or 2xIMR18350 should also not work, and that blows (esp. because I was hoping to use this with a FiveMega 1000lm setup, and had already suggested its use to others). Confirmation (or denial) needed. I only have the one Miser left right now, don't want to risk frying it (I have somehow fried one before, no longer works).

 

[id30209]

1.Don't know why 30-60-100%, left in my mind from previous chat about AW's soft start.
2.I bet it has nice ammount of resistance...you can't buy that purpose electronic in a housing, packed for 10$ and expect to be top notch...
3.I'm only using 2xIMR18350 in FM1794 1000lm setup but with different tailcap. Need to rework retaining ring to use it in penta

 

[novice]

...then 2xIMR16340 or 2xIMR18350 should also not work, and that blows (esp. because I was hoping to use this with a FiveMega 1000lm setup, and had already suggested its use to others). Confirmation (or denial) needed.

I just re-confirmed that it works on 2x IMR 16340 in an E2E running an EO-E2E (all modes, and I don't hear a buzz), and it works on 2x IMR 18350 in a "Rothrandir" split-body running a TL-3 in a Fivemega adapter (all modes, and I don't hear a buzz).

 

[id30209]

I can confirm aswell that buzz can be heard only if there's no good contact on miser bottom pcb outer gnd circle and battery tube, body, host (whatever you like). If properly seated and adjusted then no matter what batt setup you use the buzz will be gone.

 

[The Whispering Gallery]

I was able to install the Lightsaver guts in a Solarforce L2M tail cap. I used the Lightsaver switch boot because the Solarforce boot did not fit over the button on the Lightsaver switch. The Lightsaver boot seems to fit acceptably in the opening in the Solarforce tail cap but I don't know if there is any difference in water resistance.

I tested the Lightsaver with 2xEneloops (3V) and it works with a 3.7V bulb. The lowest mode is sublumen. I would put it between 0.03 and 0.15 lumens by comparing to an HDS 200 levels 2-6. The Lightsaver did not seem to work with 1 Eneloop.

 

[night.hoodie]

I can't resist, makes me want to get into P60... will be hunting for the right light for a few weeks. But after a cursory search, and knowing nothing about P60, what incandescent dropins are you using? What is practically available? Appears there are three or four basic choices, 3V, 6V, 9V and possibly? 12V? for 1, 2, 3, &4 primary 3V cells. What are you using for secondary 4.2V cells? All I can tell is there is (was) an R30 for 3V, P60 for 6V, P90 & P91 for 9V. What are the non-obvious secrets of P60 bulb lamps, as far as cell configurations?

 

[id30209]

I use TadCustoms 3712, 3718, FM 1794 in various hosts. From E1E, E2E and FM 1794 (adapting original tailcap still in progress). Although haven't tried with SF bulbs...But any bulb in range 3-6V as per lightsaver instruction will work, even 7.4V bulbs would do.

 

[ma tumba]

I still think that fivemega's 1794/1499 hosts are the best things for c-type tails. If you dont need the power of 1794/1499 you can use bipin mglite replacement bulbs. 5D works great with 2x liions, 3D is fine with 1x liion. Never tried that but 2D should do well with 2x AA in a 2x18500 host

 

[night.hoodie]

I use TadCustoms 3712, 3718, FM 1794 in various hosts. From E1E, E2E and FM 1794 (adapting original tailcap still in progress). Although haven't tried with SF bulbs...But any bulb in range 3-6V as per lightsaver instruction will work, even 7.4V bulbs would do.

Tad Customs lamps and sockets future-proofed incan E, though fit in socket they may not meet the shock specs of Surefire lamps, they are quite wonderful for all my flashlighting. My problem (maybe not uncommon) is finding enough Elite heads to fit another E socket. With Lightsaver softstart tailplant into C tails and the better availability of 6P hardware, Surefire still selling P60 lamps, my desire for a P60 incan increased. A bored 9P original will make it into my collection, I bet, so many cell configurations, versatile, but the incan pocket light is always a goal. I want to see 2 cell 1000lm incan, even if I can't yet see a use for it.

P60 incan is not future-proofed, even if incan dropins are not rare. If I can't acquire a FiveMega FM-D26, I hope to steal the idea for a one off for use with Tad lamps, for me Tad Customs lamps nail all sweet spots. I'm keeping my E's, and collecting more bodies (and invariably more complete E2e's) but I can't saturate my desire for incan with what I currently have available (due to deficit of incan E heads). The journey is very slow, but recognizing what I want next is quite a lot of fun.

My ideal incan light is a Tad Customs A3712 matched with a single 1200mAh KeepPower UH1835P, and what is around that is becoming less important to me, though I want a build that is reliable, durable, attractive, and tactile... and soft start saves lamps. There are 18mm single cell tubes, I think Solarforce has a P60 single cell 18mm tube, the 3P bored also of course... the point is I think I can find complete lights, and I'm not as sure about finding loose Elite heads.

When Mark introduces his E incan reflector heads at Lumens Factory, my P60 dreams may fade a little, but soft start in the Standard P tail is such a neat discovery, I must have a build that includes it.

 

[id30209]

Gents, Christmas came early this year (sort of).
Just got an answer from Armyproperty ( http://www.armyproperty.com/store/p...ser-153-multi-function-tailcap-switch-upgrade ) that they are willing to sell 6-12V 6P,G2,Z2,C2 tailcaps as well E1/E2 tailcaps. They are suggesting to get a number of people that would like to purchaase with exact number of each model to get a group discount.
So i would kindly ask you to give it a look on their webpage and drop me a PM with your interest.

This is a good chance to finally get those good looking tails in our bigger flashlights without a need to disassemble original tailcaps and since their version is better looking than E series it can fit without a bigger cosmetic discrepancy.
These are operating in 6-12V range so mods with 2 and 3 Li-ion's are fully covered )))
Let me know who's interessted!

https://postimg.cc/gallery/33kr7d6bc/