Lightsaver miser guts fit sf 6p tail!

night.hoodie

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I concur on all counts, the P/C series LightSaver Miser tails are as attractive as original Surefire hardware, and they tail stand. They are unlikely to be as durable as Surefire caps, but at least they are available and cheap(er than Surefire). The only P/C LightSaver tails I have seen available are the Blitzer variety, which steals the momentary function for strobe. Not a good trade-off. Excellent news they are still available.

Nice work, id30209. While your PM method will certainly work as long as your inbox isn't full, what is customary is to simply start a new thread with a description, pictures, and a list (often reserving the first reply to the thread, just in case), users can post their interest to the thread, and you can add them to the list. That might save you aggravation if the interest is popular, and you can also throw the link at ArmyProperty if the interest is massive, so they can see for themselves the product is still desired and has a market.
 

id30209

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I concur on all counts, the P/C series LightSaver Miser tails are as attractive as original Surefire hardware, and they tail stand. They are unlikely to be as durable as Surefire caps, but at least they are available and cheap(er than Surefire). The only P/C LightSaver tails I have seen available are the Blitzer variety, which steals the momentary function for strobe. Not a good trade-off. Excellent news they are still available.

Nice work, id30209. While your PM method will certainly work as long as your inbox isn't full, what is customary is to simply start a new thread with a description, pictures, and a list (often reserving the first reply to the thread, just in case), users can post their interest to the thread, and you can add them to the list. That might save you aggravation if the interest is popular, and you can also throw the link at ArmyProperty if the interest is massive, so they can see for themselves the product is still desired and has a market.

Well noted! Was thinking about the new thread but since i'm at work don't have time for it at this moment, only quick post.
New thread coming shortly. This one was acceptable since guys in this one will be (most likely) the only one interested.
 

The Whispering Gallery

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I was able to install the Lightsaver guts in a Solarforce L2M tail cap. I used the Lightsaver switch boot because the Solarforce boot did not fit over the button on the Lightsaver switch. The Lightsaver boot seems to fit acceptably in the opening in the Solarforce tail cap but I don't know if there is any difference in water resistance.

I tested the Lightsaver with 2xEneloops (3V) and it works with a 3.7V bulb. The lowest mode is sublumen. I would put it between 0.03 and 0.15 lumens by comparing to an HDS 200 levels 2-6. The Lightsaver did not seem to work with 1 Eneloop.

Quick follow-up: I found that the lowest voltage that allows the E series Lightsaver to work is 2.25V. Runtime on high (3.7V bulb so not too bright) to that point was about 45 min with regular 2000 mAh Eneloops.
 

LiftdT4R

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Quick follow-up: I found that the lowest voltage that allows the E series Lightsaver to work is 2.25V. Runtime on high (3.7V bulb so not too bright) to that point was about 45 min with regular 2000 mAh Eneloops.

Hmmm, mine cuts out at 3.2volts. At least that's what my battery says when I put it on the charger. I have a couple others so maybe I got a bad one and I'll try those. Was a little disappointed by this because not much run time on a single 18650.
 

night.hoodie

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I had three Miser's compatible with E, gifted one, one still have and works, one failed.

I have been meaning to pull apart the switch, did today finally.
Here's the PCB (mostly these things are a mystery to me), I think I see where it went :poof:

WmS8Cgj.jpg


RFu6uQK.jpg



I wonder about, but can not address how much can be shaved off the edges without destroying its function to make-fit in smaller tailcaps, especially original E series z52, z57, et al.
 

rjking

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LiftdT4R;5215865 Next you'll want to pop the Light Saver Miser switch into the empty Surefire housing. Be sure to leave out the silver spacer and threaded ring. Even though the ring will thread in it will make the entire assembly to large and your switch won't screw back onto the body completely. [IMG said:
https://i.imgur.com/jgBnubN.jpg[/IMG]

And you're good to go. In this example I'm putting together a new old stock Nitrolon G2 with a cheap KAI Domain 9V Xenon bulb and 2 Keeppower 16340s. A 16650 and a 3.7V bulb would be a better choice due to their much greater capacity but I got a ton of these 16340s from work so I'm going to roll with them.

Just curious. No retaining ring to keep this switch in place?
 

LiftdT4R

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The supplied one didn't fit and I haven't found the need for one. The switch assembly stay in place because it is pretty tight inside the bore. I've been running this light a few nights every week now since August or so and it's been great even after multiple battery changes. Not loose at all.
 

rjking

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The supplied one didn't fit and I haven't found the need for one. The switch assembly stay in place because it is pretty tight inside the bore. I've been running this light a few nights every week now since August or so and it's been great even after multiple battery changes. Not loose at all.

Thanks for that man.

My bored 6p is now rocking a P91 on 2 Keeppower IMR 1600 with this switch. :thumbsup: The only issue that I've noticed so far is you can no longer lockout the tail cap.
 
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LiftdT4R

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Thanks for that man.

My bored 6p is now rocking a P91 on 2 Keeppower IMR 1600 with this switch. :thumbsup: The only issue that I've noticed so far is you can no longer lockout the tail cap.

Awesome, yeah, that's correct, no more lockout. Did you mean 16340s? I was running a 9V on 2 - 16430s but the capacity is low on them and its really noticeable with the incan. I went to a 3.7V bulb and a 16650 and pretty much doubled my run time. I don't know of a real high output bulb though in 3.7V. Also, these miser switches seem to cut out at 3.2V which is a drawback. I wish they'd stay lit until 3V for even longer run time. No need to worry about that on 2 - 16340s.
 

rjking

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Awesome, yeah, that's correct, no more lockout. Did you mean 16340s? I was running a 9V on 2 - 16430s but the capacity is low on them and its really noticeable with the incan. I went to a 3.7V bulb and a 16650 and pretty much doubled my run time. I don't know of a real high output bulb though in 3.7V. Also, these miser switches seem to cut out at 3.2V which is a drawback. I wish they'd stay lit until 3V for even longer run time. No need to worry about that on 2 - 16340s.

I mean, Keeppower IMR 18350 1600 mah.
 

LiftdT4R

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LF EO-4 (3.7V, D26 format) ~ 190 lm ?

Very cool, I'll have to check that out. I have a C2 Centurion with a P61 back in the day and I can't believe the amount of batteries I went through. These Li-Ions are a god send! Compared to the LEDs it's easy to see all the extra juice they suck up though.
 

night.hoodie

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Lightsaver Miser does not advertise SoftStart as a feature, but perhaps this is because the name SoftStart may be a protected trademark. If anyone has ever flashed a lamp running with a Lightsaver Miser tail cap, please let us know about it. Personally, I have yet to kill a lamp with it. I have a suspicion there is a fast PWM ramp-up to direct drive in full brightness on that first mode that is effectively a SoftStart... but I have no idea how to find out for certain. If anyone has anecdotes about flashing lamps with Miser, then that would probably be definitive: no SoftStart. TIA
 

Greenbean

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I just picked up three,

One now and two more on the way,

Running it on an E2e w/single 16650 and I love the interface, the button feel is like an electrical button under it. Not near the travel of a McClicky. Oh and now my E2e can tail stand. Lol...

The tailcap itself is a piece of aluminum! I figured for the price it would be plastic but it's not.

Once the others come in one is going into a 6P for sure.
 

Greenbean

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I have discovered something with this unit!

I put the one I took apart into a clone G2 but used a GITD boot, well I wake up the other night and look over and sure enough there is a red LED flashing inside of the GITD boot!

I was kind of thinking "What the heck?!"

I keep forgetting to email the maker of these to see why it's there as the boot isn't a direct switch over if you wanna use the tailcap on an "E" series. So normally you can't see the red LED in there anyways but why is it there?
 

LiftdT4R

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Hmm, pretty neat! I have a few old Nite Ize Mini Maglite switches that have this feature. They make it easier to locate at night and don't hardly use any battery.

My guess would be the original manufacturer used this on a number of different models some with this feature. I have all black boots on mine so I've never noticed.
 

DayofReckoning

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I've been using my Lightsaver Miser tailcap for approx 1 year now, and thought I would make a brief report.

In that time, I have used two different setups with it: LF HO-E2R with two IMR 16340 and LF EO-E1R with one 16650. The most usage has come from the EO-E1R and 16650. In a years usage, I have not had a single failure with the Miser tailcap. However, there are a few things I have noted.

1. My EO-E1R lamp seems like it has darkened quite rapidly. I have been using Lumens Factory lamps for many years, have owned many different types, and have a pretty good understanding of the rate at which they darken. And I feel that this lamp has darkened faster than any other I have owned/used. A large amount of the usage the lamp has seen has been from the lowest output mode the Miser allows. At this point, the bulb is VERY underdriven. We know that a lamp, when underdriven TOO much, will allow black deposits to develop. I'm thinking that running the lamp on the low mode might contributed to this lamp darkening very quickly. However, being a tiny sample of just one light, I cannot say for sure. Hopefully, others can comment of their experience.

2. Although I have not directly measured it, apparently there must be a high amount of resistance in this tailcap. During a runtime test, a new, freshly charged Keeppower 16650 only ran for approx 75 minutes using the EO-E1R lamp. Far less than one would expect. There is also a small, but noticeable decrease in whiteness/brightness when switching back between the Miser and factory tailcap.

Overall, the Lightsaver Miser tailcap is one of my favorite pieces of kit I've ever owned. The biggest mystery to me is how this amazing little tailcap has been so criminally overlooked is beyond my understanding. How these things actually work, and how/why they are priced so cheaply is also a mystery. I would really love to see someone with the know-how to tear one of these apart and give us some specifics of how exactly they work.
 
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