The Official Malkoff Junkie thread - Part 2

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Grizzman

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The e2/Scout's tint is very similar if not fully identical to the 6000K+ cool tint of an XP-G2 M61.

In addition to the elimination of the blinky mode, I won't get a complete MDC light until it's available in neutral or warm.

Grizz
 

KDM

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Yeah 4000-5000k is the range I prefer. When I buy cool tints they are for throw only or just end up sitting.
 

GeoBruin

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Wtf? And what does this tell me when shining my light in the bush?




Well, according to the ANSI-NEMA FL-1 standard, you can use the lux measurement to determine the effective beam distance. That is, the distance at which the beam will measure .25 lux (which is approximately the same as the light from a full moon). When you have you lux reading at 1 meter (candela), take that number and divide it by .25. Take the square root of the result and you get the throw in meters. For example, a light that makes 5,000 lux:

5000/.25 = 20,000
sqrt(20,000) = 141.42 meters.

So if you turned the light on and walked 141.42 meters down range, the source of the light would appear the same as a full moon (approximately).
 

RI Chevy

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Well, according to the ANSI-NEMA FL-1 standard, you can use the lux measurement to determine the effective beam distance. That is, the distance at which the beam will measure .25 lux (which is approximately the same as the light from a full moon). When you have you lux reading at 1 meter (candela), take that number and divide it by .25. Take the square root of the result and you get the throw in meters. For example, a light that makes 5,000 lux:

5000/.25 = 20,000
sqrt(20,000) = 141.42 meters.

So if you turned the light on and walked 141.42 meters down range, the source of the light would appear the same as a full moon (approximately).

Very informative answer. Thank you. Puts it in perspective for sure. :)
 

the badger

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Well, according to the ANSI-NEMA FL-1 standard, you can use the lux measurement to determine the effective beam distance. That is, the distance at which the beam will measure .25 lux (which is approximately the same as the light from a full moon). When you have you lux reading at 1 meter (candela), take that number and divide it by .25. Take the square root of the result and you get the throw in meters. For example, a light that makes 5,000 lux:

5000/.25 = 20,000
sqrt(20,000) = 141.42 meters.

So if you turned the light on and walked 141.42 meters down range, the source of the light would appear the same as a full moon (approximately).

Very informative answer. Thank you. Puts it in perspective for sure. :)

Indeed. Thanks a LOT for taking the time to post that! Much appreciated.
 

Illluminator

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It is more of a close to mid range solution. The general rule I follow is that 2 lux is needed for definite target identification. About a month ago, I took some measurements at 100 yards with a Hound Dog, M60, M61 SHO, LX2 and a Nailbender XM-L2 engine. I just grabbed the note pad into which I wrote the results.

The LX2 did 1.01 lux, the M60 did .72 lux, and the M61 SHO did .65 lux. The LX2 did 1.01. The XM-L2 NB did 1.22 lux. The Cool Hound Dog did 2.70, and the Neutral one did 2.44.

When I was measuring the E2DLU at 1 meter (it did 18,360 lux) , I grabbed the Neutral Hound Dog which did a little north of 21,000. I suspect the E2DLU will be usable out to 125 or so yards. The park where I took my measurements has enough space for measurements out to about 150 yards.

If the weather is nice this weekend, I plan to enlist the help of a friend to see at what distance the Cool Hound Dog, the E2DLU, and a yet to be delivered NB XP-G2 OP reflectored unit provide 2 lux. Naturally, results will be posted here.

Grizz

Thanks for the info!
 

greatscoot

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I am looking to get an M61N and not sure between the SHO and just the normal N. I would be running this on an MD2 body, so if I go with the SHO it would run with 2x18350's. Does anybody have both on these dropins that could "shed some light" on this for me.
Thanks
 

RI Chevy

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In an MD2, I'd go with the M61N. It is plenty bright enough and will give you better run times. The SHO's are more suitable with MD3's and 4's. Personally, I am not a big fan of the SHO's.
 

Greenbean

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I am looking to get an M61N and not sure between the SHO and just the normal N. I would be running this on an MD2 body, so if I go with the SHO it would run with 2x18350's. Does anybody have both on these dropins that could "shed some light" on this for me.
Thanks

If it were me and I would seriously consider the MD3 body, and some 18500 cells, and CR123s as backups...
if your really wanting the higher output the problem I have with 18350 cells is I have some from Efest and they have a PCB on the end of them, they are to long for dual fitment in an MD2 body, maybe I need to get some AW 18349 cells that are shorter...

The joys of a single 18650 in the MD2 is you get longer runtime then the higher output dropins and just a little lower output,
I love my high power drop ins, I have three, but I prefer them all in an MD3 body,
 

ToNIX

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I am looking to get an M61N and not sure between the SHO and just the normal N. I would be running this on an MD2 body, so if I go with the SHO it would run with 2x18350's. Does anybody have both on these dropins that could "shed some light" on this for me.
Thanks

I would go with M61N or M61 219, depending if you need more throw or flood.
 

S1LVA

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Just stopping by to show some Malkoff love. Mr. Postman just came.

You can't beat the handwritten notes from Cathy!



Only 8 more hours till darkness!

S1LVA
 

S1LVA

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Nice,

What drop ins did you get?

I like the Camo DM2!


I like the Camo a lot more than I thought I would, it looks great!

I picked up a couple of the new M361's. One cool white and one neutral. I can't wait to test them out tonight. Just playing around with them, I can already tell that the mode spacing is great.

S1LVA
 

Greenbean

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Thanks,

I have a M61 HO219 coming in the mail, can't wait to compare it to my M61NSHO and my M91A...
 
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