Actual Lumens readings in 6" dia. Lab Sphere IS with SC 5500 control

[MrGman]

I have updated the post with more data, I ran the NailBender P7 and the Malkoff MC-E DD unit with a DC power supply that can provide plenty of stable power. The results are in the table for those who want to see.

I only did instantaneous turn-on readings and then would let the parts sit and cool off before taking more readings. So most turn on times were only up to 5 seconds as I was trying to get the best possible peak turn on lumen reading of a cool die. Modules were clamped into a vise, for stability but not great overall heatsinking. I would hold them with my fingers and not allow them to get to the point where they were ever too hot to touch. I could handle them with no problems.

I will let the results stand for themselves for those may be interested. I put up to 15.8 watts DC power into the Malkoff unit to see what I could get out of it at turn on. Once on the readings were dropping very rapidly thus after a few seconds I simply shut it off and waited before starting over. G

 

[Yoda4561]

I'm curious to see a head to head between the DD and regulated MCE now. I was gonna go the DD route for the extra throw for the first 10 minutes, but it looks like all the extra power draw is wasted as heat.

The one beamshot I've seen outdoors with an MCE-W DD vs XRE M60(normal, not flood) makes the two look like they throw similarly. Another indoor shot of the regulated MCE-W suggests it isn't even close to a 200 Lumen XRE for throw. It doesn't seem to make much sense to me if both MCE's are putting out 400+ lumens. Gene's numbers for the regulated MCE show it pulling 7.8 watts. That would put it just over 400 lumens OTF but can it hold it?

 

[MrGman]

In his never ending pursuit "of a better mousetrap" Gene called me yesterday and said he wanted to send me one of each of the regulated MC-E's to see what their real performance is after hearing about the DD test results from bigchelis. So stay tuned.

 

[N/Apower]

In his never ending pursuit "of a better mousetrap" Gene called me yesterday and said he wanted to send me one of each of the regulated MC-E's to see what their real performance is after hearing about the DD test results from bigchelis. So stay tuned.

Good stuff! I like it when a man steps up and says "I want to know what happens when the rubber meets the road. Here is what I brung, now run it!"

 

[DavesKam]

Very good information. Thanks.
Is there anyone has data for Zebra Light H50?

 

[nanotech17]

anybody willing to send their Eagletac P100C2 & P100A2 to MrGman for lab lumen testing

 

[polkiuj]

Hey! MrG!! You gotta test the Surefire L1 running on 1 x 3.7V RCR123As.

I tested it beside my Eagletac T10LC2 (with a "light meter" and ceiling bounce and found that

IT THROWS THE SAME AS MY T10LC2 BUT WITH A MUCH LARGER HOTSPOT (albeit with far less spill.

about 9000 lux vs about 9000 lux!!

And THE OUTPUT IS ABOUT 88% of my Eagletac!!

My Eagletac has issues (thermal epoxy paste on LED dome) but it should put out ~230 lumens OTF, measured beside my Fenix LD10 which should have about 85 lumens OTF.

So the L1 HAS ABOUT 200 Lumens out the front!!

 

[Bullzeyebill]

polkiuj, that would be amazing if the L1 got 200 lumens with the RCR123. I have seen some runtime graphs comparing L1 with CR123, and with RCR123 and compared using bounce with lightmeter but never that much of a difference, maybe 20% due to being overdriven with LiIion. L1 actually handles RCR123 pretty well, much better than the E1L overdriven.

Bill

 

[Bruce B]

I would love to see how the various levels of the Surefire U2A look when measured.

 

[MrGman]

Hey! MrG!! You gotta test the Surefire L1 running on 1 x 3.7V RCR123As.

I tested it beside my Eagletac T10LC2 (with a "light meter" and ceiling bounce and found that

IT THROWS THE SAME AS MY T10LC2 BUT WITH A MUCH LARGER HOTSPOT (albeit with far less spill.

about 9000 lux vs about 9000 lux!!

And THE OUTPUT IS ABOUT 88% of my Eagletac!!

My Eagletac has issues (thermal epoxy paste on LED dome) but it should put out ~230 lumens OTF, measured beside my Fenix LD10 which should have about 85 lumens OTF.

So the L1 HAS ABOUT 200 Lumens out the front!!

what is the current draw from you RCR battery with a fresh charge when its putting out all those lumens? What does it normally draw from a CR123 primary??? I don't keep track of the L1 series. What's its normal output supposed to be 80 lumens?

 

[MrGman]

I would love to see how the various levels of the Surefire U2A look when measured.

they don't look all that impressive because they are inside the integration sphere. You just see a little light coming out of the opening on the side, but its hard to read the meter if you are looking at the light anyway.

Does this U2A model actually exist out in the real public world. Is this something you can buy and send me or is this still just some pie in the sky unit that some one saw at a trade show and waiting to be blessed from on high before we can actually go get one?

Do you have one of these to send me? I am all full up on all the SureFire lights I am going to buy. I still have to finish 1 more set of tests with the E2DL so I can sell that one off.

 

[NoFair]

U2A: upgraded U2 with a Seoul emitter. Longer runtimes, more throw and maybe a bit brighter.

UA2: Not released focusable beautiful light SF hasn't released yet:sigh:

PS! Thanks for doing the test for us:twothumbs

 

[Monocrom]

Yeah, the U2A isn't something Surefire advertises. It's a quiet upgrade to the old Surefire U2. Instead of using the old luxeon emitter, Surefire switched to a Seoul emitter.

 

[Rat6P]

Hey MrGman,

Was just wondering if you still have access to an M30, could you test it running on a single primary or 2AA batts?

If not....cheers anyway!

 

[MrGman]

Hey MrGman,

Was just wondering if you still have access to an M30, could you test it running on a single primary or 2AA batts?

If not....cheers anyway!

You want me to measure lumens or the current, I am guessing the lumens. I don't have a way to hold the batteries while in the sphere. Still waiting on my L2 mini. What I can do is measure the current from regulated supply and see what it does down to 2.0V. If it doesn't hold regulation you must assume that the output goes down.

 

[Rat6P]

Yeah the lumens.

Really interested in the output from 2aa batts in comparison to some of the dedicated 2aa flashlights, like a fenix or an eagletac.

Whatever you can do would be great,

but don't worry about it too much.:thumbsup:I can live not knowing.

thanks

 

[Bullzeyebill]

You want me to measure lumens or the current, I am guessing the lumens. I don't have a way to hold the batteries while in the sphere. Still waiting on my L2 mini. What I can do is measure the current from regulated supply and see what it does down to 2.0V. If it doesn't hold regulation you must assume that the output goes down.

The M30 with AA's can be run in your L2 SolarForce with extension. Just insert some rolled up stiff paper or light cardboard in tube and add 2 NiMh AA cells. Paper will keep AA's centered and overall length of two AA's is same as two 17500's, 3 CR123's, or two 18500's.

Bill

 

[Ny0ng1]

someone should send MrGman some popular SureFire models like E1B, L1 Cree and A2 aviator.

Thanks MrGman for doing these tests for us.

 

[polkiuj]

what is the current draw from you RCR battery with a fresh charge when its putting out all those lumens? What does it normally draw from a CR123 primary??? I don't keep track of the L1 series. What's its normal output supposed to be 80 lumens?

I have no access to any current draw equipment. It's just amazing (and I'm jealous, yea yea) that a single 123 can put out so much light, and throw like such a crazy thing with quite a useful beam!

I guess that it's a boost only circuit and runs on or close to DD with RCR. Probably the same output as a Lummi Raw or Fenix PD20 (on RCR)?

Just guessing here.

 

[MrGman]

I have no access to any current draw equipment. It's just amazing (and I'm jealous, yea yea) that a single 123 can put out so much light, and throw like such a crazy thing with quite a useful beam!

I guess that it's a boost only circuit and runs on or close to DD with RCR. Probably the same output as a Lummi Raw or Fenix PD20 (on RCR)?

Just guessing here.

A single 123 doesn't put out any light just a whole bunch of electrons. If you have something to convert electrons to light efficiently well then voila. You get both.

You can buy a digital multimeter with ammeter capability fairly cheap nowadays. Most hardware stores even carry something useful. You want a digital multimeter with Ammeter capability that can read up to 10 Amp range. Should be able to get a good one for less than $100.00. Look online under handheld digital multimeters.