Beta QR quick release V2

[Dingle1911]

My copper without the QD is 1.7 oz with battery and 1.3 oz without the QD or battery.

 

[jon_slider]

My copper without the QD is 1.7 oz with battery and 1.3 oz without the QD or battery.

Very much appreciated! The Prometheus is 37 grams empty, and for comparison the Maratac CU is 28 grams empty. Both lights have PWM, but the most outstanding feature of the Prometheus is its LED.

fwiw, the Prometheus clip is not reversible, it is a great pocket clip, but wont work on a hat the way the Maratac or Olight will..

I would welcome a wall photo showing beam size and color of the Prometheus compared to an Olight i3s on high, as they have similar lumen ratings.

 

[gunga]

I half agree. The nichia 219A is great, but I think the clip is the best part of the Beta. Too bad it's a $30 extra...

Edit: also, yes, it's too bad it's not reversible.

 

[Brasso]

I just got my clip for the copper beta, and I'm worried something is out of spec. The whole thing pops off the back of the light with just very slight pressure pulling the clip away from the side of the light. You can't even pull it even without the whole thing popping off and flying across the room. I'm afraid that if I try and carry it I'm going to go to clip in my pocket and lose the clip.

Any ideas? I'm thinking I may have to return the clip.

 

[Dingle1911]

I sounds like something is out of spec. I thought I read somewhere that the clip was slightly difficult to remove unless the retainer was pulled directly up which should not happen under normal use with the clip.

 

[neutralwhite]

Mine seems pretty solid.

 

[gunga]

It's out of specification. The body or clip needs to be returned. That happened to my brass beta.

 

[Str8stroke]

Yup, something wrong. Check the tension spring for proper placement. It is a serviceable part. It can shift out of its seat. As others have stated, it should be pretty tight.

 

[Brasso]

The tension spring seems to be in place. I guess I'lll have to contact Prometheus about a service return. It pops off way too easy.

 

[jon_slider]

sorry to hear of your need for a return cycle
I wonder if you might benefit from posting a photo of your light with clip installed, on the off chance that your clip is not being seated all the way down, it might show in the photo to look different than others clip install?

also, if you have the V2 and the QR works as designed, then imo, you only need a replacement clip, its not your light body

this thread needs some pics...

 

[Brasso]

Photos:





Video:

https://youtu.be/TD02oVQqcDQ

 

[jon_slider]

Photos:

I also did a short video, but have no way to upload it.

great shot!
some guesses
if your QR works normally, the mismatch is the brass plug is not seating the spring, maybe try tapping it in place, is it really pushed in all the way?
If your QR also comes off too easily, you need a new coil spring.
videos get loaded to youtube, then the url gets linked here, theres a button top right, but that last pic you posted tells all, the brass pin is releasing from the spring ring
Im sure Prometheus will make it right, sorry for your glitch

 

[rjking]

Looks to me like how a quick release should be. :naughty:

 

[RedForest UK]

5) It does this very odd thing where if I cycle through the modes very quickly (like two times all the way through), it consistently doesn't turn on after like 6 or 7 twists. It'll be cycling through and then all of a sudden I'll tighten the head and it'll flicker and not turn on no matter how tight.

I have just received a copper beta QR too, and was also having trouble with this problem. It would happen mainly after a few quick cycles, but sometimes on only the 2nd or third twist (to enter med/high).

Anyway, I tried cleaning all contacts repeatedly and reseating the spring etc but the 'glitch' was still there. However, it didn't seem to be a problem with the circuit itself as it never happened when testing only the head via a DMM. I tried the beta QR head on an old iTP A3 body and it didn't happen, so I thought it must be something to do with the copper body somehow. I thought it could be to do with the current jumping across contacts to the copper ground sometimes or something related, so I added some teflon tape to the threads on the body and now it doesn't do it at all anymore, so that's sorted now and it's good to know that there's a simple fix.

A confusing problem though. Does anyone have a copper one that does NOT have this 'glitch'?

 

[jon_slider]

Does anyone have a copper one that does NOT have this 'glitch'?

Yes, I have a Copper Beta that does not fail to light when cycled. It did have cycle failures at first, but I fixed it!

I also have a Copper Maratac that would fail when cycled, I even posted a youtube of it and complained to the owner. He told me it was caused by too much grease from the threads. I wiped it out with a paper towel, but the problem continued, though less frequently.

Then I had an absolutely brilliant idea, LOL
I dipped a q tip in alcohol, held the light head, lens up, so the alcohol would not drool into the head, and swabbed out the threads and pill. Then I again wiped with paper towel. Dont use klenex btw, it sheds lots of fuzz, ask me how I know ...

To continue the saga... I removed the O ring and wiped off all the grease on the body threads, and end of tube, even the inside of the tube.. when it was clean, I put the Oring back on, regreased the threads and Oring with fresh grease, wiped off the end of the tube to make sure excess grease would not get on the pill in the head... (thats important, you dont want a gob of grease on the end of the body tube)

Both of my copper flashlights now work and cycle normally, without failures. Unless I add more grease. Then they fail on cycles again, and I find just wiping out the head with a paper towel, gets me back to reliable cycling. Sometimes after a hot day in the car, the lights can become unreliable again, I think the grease migrates down towards the pill. Again wiping with paper towel will solve the problem..

moral of the story... its the grease

Fantasy lights. Note the pocket clip is reversible, and fwiw, the Maratac body weighs 13 grams less, but you lose the super cool QR of the Beta. Only the Maratac body with Beta head will light. the reverse setup wont fire the led.. just playing around..

Video: https://youtu.be/TD02oVQqcDQ

Thats an excellent Video! Just get in touch with Prometheus Lights, they could send a new spring and or a new clip plug and you could be golden

Copper Power!

 

[timbo114]

Can someone confirm please ....
Does this light use the 219A or 219B emitter?

 

[gunga]

It uses 219A.

 

[jon_slider]

Can someone confirm please ....
Does this light use the 219A or 219B emitter?

I do not know. What does either one mean in Kelvin and CRI?
I went to buy my Beta from Prometheus in person and Jason was very kind and let me measure several lights I had with me, for CRI and temperature. We also measured the Beta I bought from him.

Here are the results for the Beta I got. Its my first N219 and Im totally blown away, I love the rich colors it shows.

===
for comparison the XP-G2 in my Copper Maratac Rev3 looks like this:

more pics here -First-Impressions-Prometheus-Beta

 

[RedForest UK]

Yes it's a 219a. They come in different tint variants but the a is bit less efficient (especially with boost circuits as it has a slightly higher vf) with slightly lower CCT as well.

Has anyone tried running their copper version on 10440? I know they aren't supposed to be compatible, which makes sense for the constant current 2-mode circuit, but normally PWM based dimmers will happily run a li-ion effectively direct drive against the LED. With the relatively high vf of the 219a I would expect this to be well within the spec of the emitter from a small 10440 cell, but I haven't got brave enough to test it myself..

 

[jon_slider]

Has anyone tried running their copper version on 10440? ... normally PWM based dimmers will happily run a li-ion effectively direct drive against the LED ...

Can you explain how a light such as the D25aaa that does allow 10440, is different from a Beta? Does the D25aaa have some sort of special circuit that the Beta lacks?