Actual Lumens readings in 6" dia. Lab Sphere IS with SC 5500 control

[MrGman]

"I really appreciate your tests. But I would recommend taking measurements after longer warm up. At least 5 minutes or more. 15 seconds is not enough."

I did run it longer, it just started to settle out. I ran it for a couple minutes and it was "holding" at 270 lumens after the "initial" drop. :thumbsup: that's is why I myself was so impressed, especially when I already knew it was sucking down 0.96 amps at turn on. G

 

[Lookin4U]

Well, now you know why I heartily recommend the T10C2. I've been using one nightly at work for five weeks now, and love it. Working as LEO assigned to CSI, I've run it for over an hour continuously and no, it does not get "hot", but does get about as warm as other comparable format lights I have. I've also found that it makes an awesome Mountain Bike light (lots of wide, bright spill & it throws as well as comparable lights!!!!!!).

 

[KDOG3]

I would be interested in seeing what the new SSC-P4 based U2 is rated at. I just got one (on the way) so i'm very interested to find out what I'm getting.

 

[etc]

Great thread, thanks for posting real-life lumens.

 

[MrGman]

I would be interested in seeing what the new SSC-P4 based U2 is rated at. I just got one (on the way) so i'm very interested to find out what I'm getting.

Tell me more about this light.

Also I am interested in Feedback about the video, mostly is it useful in showing the differences in brightness and color tint in the way I did it in the garage? the original looks better than what gets translated to you tube?
But what do you goes think, does it help you to see how bright this light is compared to the other. :candle:

If I didn't turn down the brightness of the camera it would have simply light up the garage like the "house" lights were on. G

 

[Noobiwan]

Thank you for putting some time and effort into this MrG. I hope there will be more tests from you in the near future.

 

[etc]

No, not at all. Alkalines should never perform like CR123. AAs under that high load will sag like a motherforker. They just can't provide the juicy needed to achieve that power. CR123s are very pwerful cells, so light fueled by them should never be compared to plain alkaline-powered lights.:thumbsup:

Unless you use Lithiums. 2xAA L91s should give over 3V, or about equal to 1x123 cell.

with much greater capacity and runtime of course, but way more bulk.

Don't discard the AA format just yet, L91 gave it new life.

Now Alkalines still have their place in low modes.

Fenix L2D for example runs very well on Alkalines in low modes. In the lowest modes it will even run on CarbonZinc 'heavy duty' junk.

That why multimodes make sense, about 2 of them. I am getting EagleTac in 2xAA format, use NiMH or L91 for high mode and hopefully the low mode will run well on alkalines if necessary. Even if I don't get the stated 8 hours out of it.

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

Unless you use Lithiums. 2xAA L91s should give over 3V, or about equal to 1x123 cell.

with much greater capacity and runtime of course, but way more bulk.

Don't discard the AA format just yet, L91 gave it new life.

Now Alkalines still have their place in low modes.

Fenix L2D for example runs very well on Alkalines in low modes. In the lowest modes it will even run on CarbonZinc 'heavy duty' junk.

That why multimodes make sense, about 2 of them. I am getting EagleTac in 2xAA format, use NiMH or L91 for high mode and hopefully the low mode will run well on alkalines if necessary. Even if I don't get the stated 8 hours out of it.

Unless you use Lithiums. 2xAA L91s should give over 3V, or about equal to 1x123 cell.

You are comparing TWO long cells against one, not fair. A single CR123 has more energy and twice voltage than a single L91. Two CR123 is not even funny to compare...

 

[phantom23]

You're incorrect. Single L91 has slightly more energy than single CR123A.

 

[Nake]

You're incorrect. Single L91 has slightly more energy than single CR123A.

A CR123 has about 3.2V. An L91 is AA size and has about 1.7V. Maybe you're thinking of an EL123A the Lithium equivelant of a CR123.

 

[phantom23]

Average CR123 capacity is 1300-1400mAh (let's say 1350mAh). L91 - 2800-2900mAh (2850mAh).
3,2*1350=4,32Wh
1,7*2850=4,85Wh

 

[Nake]

You wrote energy, I read it as voltage.

 

[HKJ]

Average CR123 capacity is 1300-1400mAh (let's say 1350mAh). L91 - 2800-2900mAh (2850mAh).
3,2*1350=4,32Wh
1,7*2850=4,85Wh

I do not know where your got your data from, the voltage your specify is way to high. 2.5 and 1.4 is more correct at high load.

The L91 is (according to data sheet) between 4.5 Wh and 3.8 Wh, depending on load and CR123 is about the same (see https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/67078)

 

[phantom23]

And 1,5 and 3,0V nominal.

The L91 is (according to data sheet) between 4.5 Wh and 3.8 Wh, depending on load and CR123 is about the same (see https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/67078)

I agree. That's why I said this is incorrect:

A single CR123 has more energy and twice voltage than a single L91.

CR123 isn't better. And outside US it's better to have AA light (CR's are rare and very expensive if you find one).

 

[HKJ]

CR123 isn't better. And outside US it's better to have AA light (CR's are rare and very expensive if you find one).

I can not get L91 one around here, but CR123 is easy to get from local internet shops and the price is acceptable for me (About $3).
But any light I uses on a regular schedule is running on rechargeable batteries, primary batteries are reserved for lights with low usage.

 

[phantom23]

But any light I uses on a regular schedule is running on rechargeable batteries, primary batteries are reserved for lights with low usage.

And than AA light is a keeper

 

[HKJ]

And than AA light is a keeper

AA lights are fine with eneloopes, but there are many other possibilities, I like 18650 and 16340.

 

[phantom23]

I use Sanyo 2700, use a lot so I don't care about self-discharge. 16340 has low capacity, 18650 is thicker and if they run out you'd regret it's not AA (because you won't buy a spare in casual shop). But I have and use some 18650 lights as well:thumbsup:

PS. Sorry for the OT.

 

[Youfoundnemo]

Thanks for doing this work for us....Im sure all of CPF is as grateful as I am

 

[MrGman]

Thanks for doing this work for us....Im sure all of CPF is as grateful as I am

Your welcome.

Also a tidbit of news. I just ordered the Lumens Factory D26 LED module for myself so it will be seeing testing in my Solarforce and SureFire Flashlight hosts.

I am debating getting the M90 Rattlesnake with the R2 LED already in it and then possibly ordering the LF D36 LED pill, but not in a hurry. If some one gets any of these, I would want to test it. Still haven't decided if I want the big head M90 with the P7.


For those guys who want to test their big P7 modules in larger head flashlights like the M90 Rattlesnake P7, you can ask precisionworks who has a larger opening in his integration sphere system that he built and I helped calibrate. We will continue to work back and forth to keep his home made system calibrated. My sphere at work has a smaller opening.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=203822

Precisionworks is also a busy guy with real job, (now don't read that as you guys who want testing don't have real jobs and aren't busy), I am guessing he doesn't have the time to test every light out there but some of you guys asked about testing the P7's from DX. If you have them you can consider asking him to test them. Since he has tested my Malkoff Triple drop and his Elektrolumens P7 in the same system it would be a great reference point.

Will keep you all posted of course.