Glad to hear that you were prepared, and made it through without any damages.
A U.S. oil pipeline company just got shut down from a cyberattack. The pipeline shut down brings oil to 50 million people on the east coast. Make sure you guys have fuel for those generators. If some of those east coast power plants use the same fuel piped in, we may eventually have blackouts if supply runs low and they don't stop the cyberattack. Take this as a warning to be prepared. Cyberattacks are going after critical infrastructure now. It's a good time to update your preps and make sure you're good in all areas. We never know what will happen next.
Hi,
How about a link to a reliable/reputable source for this type of "holy sh*t !" info please ?
Thanks.
Cheers.
Turbodog- Agreed on the pipeline topic, and great choice on the EB2800i. I'd love to hear your thoughts after running it through it's paces. 👍🏻
Nice review turbodog
Recently I saw that Harbor Freight has introduced a 9500 surge Watt 120/240 V super quiet inverter generator for $1800.
Time will tell, how dependable they are. I am delighted to see that more 240V inverters are being offered, and with more competition, the prices will continue to fall. I hope.
Personally, I don't need 240V except for central AC during the summer. Due to the fact that we rarely have a black out, and even more rarely - one that lasts more than a few hours, $1800 is difficult to justify. Especially, when one can typically get a used, standard open frame 240V gen-set in good shape for about $400.
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A big advantage over the clamshell or suitcase inverter gensets is accessability to work on things if you need to: I replaced the pull cord on my eu2000i this spring, and boy was it a deep dive. They're so tightly packaged! I figured I'd rather R&R the recoil starter on a sunny day at my leisure rather than have the fraying cord let go in the dark while it was snowing or raining.
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How does one wire a cord like that to feed a 220V panel gen input box, with a 110V outlet?<snip>
*Side note*- Finally made a cord to go from my 2000i to the side of my house yesterday... (L14 30 amp twistlock) No more extention cords off the "little" generator, it now can backfeed my panel to code like the big generator when needed.
Jumper across the 2 hots in the plug.
Alternatively, use a 4-conductor cord and terminate both hots to the single hot on the male plug.
The one pitfall to doing this is if your panel features multiwire branch circuits. With 240V split-phase these are not an issue since the two phases are neatly 180° out of phase and I gather that the voltage on neutral just looks like full-wave rectified AC. But if you're feeding both 120V legs with the same phase and run both circuits at full load, that's potentially double the current on the neutral which your breakers cannot do anything about. Mercifully, these are generally easy to identify - the breaker pairs are often mechanically bound and one of the pair will generally have a red wire as opposed to the usual black for the hot.
...if your panel features multiwire branch circuits. ....
Having looked at this for a couple specific (non-generator) applications, none of the approaches that tie multiple hot legs that are normally on different phases (or opposite sides of a center-tap) meet Code. The potential for an overloaded neutral is real, but can be mitigated by ensuring that the rating of the source (in this case, the generator) does not exceed the rating of any individual downstream branch circuit. So an EU2000 feeding a 20A multiwire branch circuit would be fine, since the maximum current that the generator can source is less than the 20A that the neutral for that circuit is rated for. But the L5-30 output from an EU3000 feeding a panel with a 15A multiwire branch circuit would present a dangerous scenario, since there is the possibility for overloading the neutral on that 15A circuit (the generator can source more than 15A, each side of the circuit is protected at 15A, but the neutral could be carrying the full current rating of the generator, ~24A).The one pitfall to doing this is if your panel features multiwire branch circuits. With 240V split-phase these are not an issue since the two phases are neatly 180° out of phase and I gather that the voltage on neutral just looks like full-wave rectified AC. But if you're feeding both 120V legs with the same phase and run both circuits at full load, that's potentially double the current on the neutral which your breakers cannot do anything about. Mercifully, these are generally easy to identify - the breaker pairs are often mechanically bound and one of the pair will generally have a red wire as opposed to the usual black for the hot.